Truck painting project

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
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Phoenix, AZ
Your ambition & ability to follow through with your projects is something to behold! I agree, the satin black primer looked dang good imo so the hot rod black should look sweet!!

My wife calls me obsessive. Fortunately she supports my habits, as the alternative is me sitting around the house moping and complaining about being bored and whining about her choice of TV shows, and she doesn't like that too much :roflmao:

Looking awesome, let me know when I should bring my pickup down for some paint too:hug:! I would love satin black:D good change of plan:thumb:

Bring it down any time and I'll paint it! Hope rattle cans are ok, I dunno if I want to tackle something like this again :hug:
 

thunder550

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Apr 2, 2013
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Phoenix, AZ
Question on the 2k urethane primer...I applied three coats the first time over the epoxy primer, the blocked with 220, cleaned, and applied two more coats after. They went on pretty thin. On my final sanding, it rubbed through to the epoxy in a few places, and there are a few other places where it's still there but thin enough to be transparent (can see the black epoxy underneath). Do I need the urethane primer to be solid before topcoating it, or am I ok as long as I didn't go down to the bare metal?
 

thunder550

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Apr 2, 2013
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Phoenix, AZ
Well I cleaned the driver's bed side today, shot it with another coat of epoxy reduced with acetone, waited for it to flash off, then shot color. I'm going to have to rent some paint booth time or maybe just pay someone to shoot it for me, my garage just isn't near clean enough to do this. Might have gotten orange peel too, will have to see what it looks tomorrow after drying. I'm actually wondering if my primer coats were too thin, each one of them had quite a bit of texture to them like the paint hit and dried before it had a chance to flow together.

I think my plan now is to go ahead and prep the rest of the body, one section at a time, then shoot them with epoxy and leave it at that until the whole thing is done and I'm ready to paint it all in one shot. Then I can sand it one last time and haul it on down to the paint booth.

IMG_20131001_193759_484_zps1533c9f8.jpg
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
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Your ambition & ability to follow through with your projects is something to behold! I agree, the satin black primer looked dang good imo so the hot rod black should look sweet!!

x2
Id just love to know how you find the time to put in all these hours working on the truck every day? Is the place you work at hiring? :rofl:
 

thunder550

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Apr 2, 2013
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Phoenix, AZ
It was a 3 pack, detail, primer, and paint gun set from the paint shop. Can't remember what brand it was.

I bought some crap to build a makeshift paint booth in my garage. Taking tonight off from working on the truck but I'll be back at it tomorrow.

I'm going to try the tailgate next before I go back and redo the bedside. I'll try to shoot the primer a little slower and wetter, and be sure to sand it smooth before shooting color again. As the paint color dried it smoothed out quite a bit...still not acceptable to me, but I think if I get the substrate smooth and keep the dust off of it, it will look really nice. I'm digging the color so far.

IMG_20131002_185724_554_zps5d35f460.jpg


IMG_20131002_185704_494_zpsf438ef42.jpg
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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You set your expectations high for having never painted before! Looks damn good for your first time!!

Agreed, looks awesome for where it was applied. I admire this guys drive and strive for perfection...

Thunder- I know you said the guys you bought your product from say it's not necessary to sand this product, but did you tell them you are spraying in your garage in a relatively primitive painting environment? They just might change their tune

Is the tip in the gun you bought the correct size for the air supply and product you are spraying? And your air supply is adequately filtered for HPLV spraying right, good filters and water and oil separators?

Also, without a booth dust can come from anywhere and taint your finish, it really is a necessity for a good finish.

Keep it up man, once you get this figured out your buddies will be bringing their rigs over asking for a custom paint job:joker:

You know, now that the truck is perfectly smooth, there's always 3M di-noc vinyl wrap:thumb:
 

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
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Phoenix, AZ
Agreed, looks awesome for where it was applied. I admire this guys drive and strive for perfection...

Thunder- I know you said the guys you bought your product from say it's not necessary to sand this product, but did you tell them you are spraying in your garage in a relatively primitive painting environment? They just might change their tune

Is the tip in the gun you bought the correct size for the air supply and product you are spraying? And your air supply is adequately filtered for HPLV spraying right, good filters and water and oil separators?

Also, without a booth dust can come from anywhere and taint your finish, it really is a necessity for a good finish.

Keep it up man, once you get this figured out your buddies will be bringing their rigs over asking for a custom paint job:joker:

You know, now that the truck is perfectly smooth, there's always 3M di-noc vinyl wrap:thumb:

Thanks guys, you're too kind :)

As for sanding, I can sand the primer no problem, it's the topcoat that can't be sanded as that will change the sheen of the sanded areas since it's a matte finish.

For tip size, I'm using a 1.7 for the primer and a 1.4 for the color. I do have a water/oil separator in line. I watched a couple videos on spray gun setup last night, I'm going to spend some time playing around with that tonight to see if it helps at all.

Thanks again for all the tips so far, it's been a huge help!
 

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
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I was wondering... I thought I read somewhere that you can't really wet sand the hot rod paint or other satins/flats because it changes the look and won't match everywhere. Outside of very minor stuff, my understanding is you're basically stuck with a finish that is as good as you can spray it and therefore isn't normally recommended as someones first spray project?

Anyone in the business able to confirm or clarify that? Or am I off in left field remembering things crooked? :confused:



Edit: crap, ypu posted while I was typing. Confirming what I thought to be the case though. :)
 

blitzin247

That didn't sound good...
Feb 9, 2013
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Thanks guys, you're too kind :)

As for sanding, I can sand the primer no problem, it's the topcoat that can't be sanded as that will change the sheen of the sanded areas since it's a matte finish.

For tip size, I'm using a 1.7 for the primer and a 1.4 for the color. I do have a water/oil separator in line. I watched a couple videos on spray gun setup last night, I'm going to spend some time playing around with that tonight to see if it helps at all.

Thanks again for all the tips so far, it's been a huge help!

Good idea! Im not a pro painter, but have spent alot of time doing my rig, and helping others with theirs as far as body work and paint go. We always sand with two or three different grades of sand paper, from 80, 200, 320, 400 depending on what process we are in and wither its the first sand on primer or second sand.

I am enjoying watching your transformation, keep up the good work! :thumb:
 

Spoolindiesel

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Jul 1, 2013
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Try wet sanding with 600 after the 400 makes a big Difference.For flat Colours set the gun up to 30 to 35 psi let down a thin coat followed by a medium wet coat Overlapping by 70% if need be let set up / flash then redo this step.
Looks like you need to speed up on movement and your trying to cover it all in one coat
The Heavier you put it on it well give you more Orange peel the trick is thinner faster coats overlapping by 70 to. 80% .
And turn up the gun a bit let me know if this helps
 

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
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Phoenix, AZ
Reconsidering my color choice yet again. If I do a gloss black rather than a matte black, what's going to give a deeper, wetter look....a 2 stage or single stage?
 

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
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Phoenix, AZ
Good deal. I keep thinking since this is my first shot at this and since I'm doing it in my garage, a 2 stage non-metallic paint will probably be the most forgiving to work with since I can wet sand.
 

Spoolindiesel

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Jul 1, 2013
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Good deal. I keep thinking since this is my first shot at this and since I'm doing it in my garage, a 2 stage non-metallic paint will probably be the most forgiving to work with since I can wet sand.

If you Want to keep it simple Go with a single stage reduced with 20% clear in your first coat
And 50% in your Final coat As long as it's a urethane based single stage paint .
This is one I did with single stage with clear Mixed in
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And a black one just so you can see what black looks like
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