Truck painting project

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
8,240
550
113
42
in the buckeye state
ok this NON body guy (me) is lost.. tried to follow.. didnt work out so well :roflmao:

could some condense the last 3 pages for me please :eek:
all i got is HVLP gun
single stage epoxy primer that sandable?


im extremely noobish when it come to paint and body :(
 

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
1,176
16
38
Phoenix, AZ
Yep you can Wet sand and buff all you want Depending on how many coats you put on Plus it's a little more durable

Perfect...thanks!

ok this NON body guy (me) is lost.. tried to follow.. didnt work out so well :roflmao:

could some condense the last 3 pages for me please :eek:
all i got is HVLP gun
single stage epoxy primer that sandable?


im extremely noobish when it come to paint and body :(

Here's my process:

1. Sand out chips/deep scratches with 80 grit on the DA
2. Scuff and fill large/obvious dents
3. Feather filler and sanded areas with 220
4. Sand rest of panel with 220 to scuff up clear coat
5. Spray 2 coats of epoxy primer
6. Spray coat of primer/surfacer
7. Spray guide coat
8. Block guide coat with 220
9. Scuff up areas that need filler with 80
10. Fill low areas, feather out with 220
(repeat steps 6-10 as many times as necessary to get smooth panel)
11. Spray 2 reduced coats of epoxy primer as a sealer
12. Sand epoxy smooth with 400
13. Spray color (# coats TBD)
 

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
1,176
16
38
Phoenix, AZ
Started on the cab.

IMG_20131012_175019_262_zps7c4b4aad.jpg


Got a nice dent in the fender to fill.

IMG_20130929_182422_961_zps4b0253bf.jpg
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
8,240
550
113
42
in the buckeye state
Here's my process:

1. Sand out chips/deep scratches with 80 grit on the DA
2. Scuff and fill large/obvious dents
3. Feather filler and sanded areas with 220
4. Sand rest of panel with 220 to scuff up clear coat
5. Spray 2 coats of epoxy primer
6. Spray coat of primer/surfacer
7. Spray guide coat
8. Block guide coat with 220
9. Scuff up areas that need filler with 80
10. Fill low areas, feather out with 220
(repeat steps 6-10 as many times as necessary to get smooth panel)
11. Spray 2 reduced coats of epoxy primer as a sealer
12. Sand epoxy smooth with 400
13. Spray color (# coats TBD)
cool thanks
 

Big Block 88

Multiple choice muscle
Nov 3, 2008
4,665
0
36
38
Kansas when I am home
I'm very interested in the ratio mix for acrylic with clear added... I'm starting my reaping and rust repair in the lb7 tomorrow repaint hopefully before winter, only issue is a dually won't fit in our garage, so I'm going to paint inside if a gp medium tent
 

Spoolindiesel

New member
Jul 1, 2013
34
0
0
I'm very interested in the ratio mix for acrylic with clear added... I'm starting my reaping and rust repair in the lb7 tomorrow repaint hopefully before winter, only issue is a dually won't fit in our garage, so I'm going to paint inside if a gp medium tent

Would it not be Easier to pull the box off that way you can paint the back of the cab and have a cleaner job big job painting it all at once

Mix your single stage paint using the Recommend Mixing Ratio I use the DUPONT/NASON 2K FUL-THANE SINGLE STAGE URETHANE in a 2nd mixing cup mix about a Quarter of the Amount of clear with the Activator for the clear use the same brand as the Single stage nason 2k Selectclear pic of clear and Single stage
jybuha7y.jpg
pu8yva6y.jpg

Mix that in with your Single stage
 
Last edited:

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,611
1,868
113
Mid Michigan
Two things I wish I knew how to do:

1) Weld
2) Paint

Anyone who can do either of those things well (or has the cahones to try like Chris did) has my utmost respect.
 

Spoolindiesel

New member
Jul 1, 2013
34
0
0
Two things I wish I knew how to do:

1) Weld
2) Paint

Anyone who can do either of those things well (or has the cahones to try like Chris did) has my utmost respect.

Best thing to do is Go to a scrapyard or a body shop pick up a few junk fenders and start Learning YouTube is your friend
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
8,240
550
113
42
in the buckeye state
Two things I wish I knew how to do:

1) Weld
2) Paint

Anyone who can do either of those things well (or has the cahones to try like Chris did) has my utmost respect.
welding has been essential to me...

painting for me... is after i weld and clean up any slag the spray primer on it and send it out the door :D
 

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
1,176
16
38
Phoenix, AZ
The dent in the fender pictured above got into the edge of the wheel well so I couldn't fill it. Found a good condition fender on CL for $50, went down and picked that up yesterday.

Shot the DS door and cab with epoxy primer tonight. Will try to do primer/surfacer tomorrow, block and maybe spray sealer Wed, then try to finish setting up a homemade paint booth and give base/clear a shot later this week.

IMG_20131014_200033_876_zpsd06c231a.jpg
 

Big Block 88

Multiple choice muscle
Nov 3, 2008
4,665
0
36
38
Kansas when I am home
Would it not be Easier to pull the box off that way you can paint the back of the cab and have a cleaner job big job painting it all at once

Mix your single stage paint using the Recommend Mixing Ratio I use the DUPONT/NASON 2K FUL-THANE SINGLE STAGE URETHANE in a 2nd mixing cup mix about a Quarter of the Amount of clear with the Activator for the clear use the same brand as the Single stage nason 2k Selectclear pic of clear and Single stage
jybuha7y.jpg
pu8yva6y.jpg

Mix that in with your Single stage


Bed will off for cab corner repair anyway and the bed is being scrapped, and flat bed going on.

Even then the truck is so long and wide it would be too tight of a squeeze and when I paint I prefer to be comfortable and have room to move around. A GP medium with grass floow wet down is how we paint our tractors and duece and a halfs, so it should work truck is just a worker anyway as long as it looks decent and doesnt have rust I will be happy happy happy
 

Fahlin Racing

New member
Aug 22, 2012
330
0
0
NE Ohio
My preference would be not to use 220 I would use a 180grit myself. I haven't sprayed for at least 5 years. I posted a good process that I used on another forum a long time ago, if I can find it, if anyone would be interested I will post it to add to this thread for more help to the guys and gals starting out.

Let me know, I don't have a clue how long it would take to find it though.

Fun project though, I loved painting vehicles, especially the kustom motorcycle tanks and other small jobs.
 

Fahlin Racing

New member
Aug 22, 2012
330
0
0
NE Ohio
Now that I think of it, I can't remember much without going through the paces again lol oh well. Hope the project turns out good.
 

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
1,176
16
38
Phoenix, AZ
Thanks! What specifically are you talking about using 180 instead of 220?

Primer/surfacer is on. I got a little carried away on the second coat and ran it a little bit. Should clean up ok when I block it tomorrow.

IMG_20131015_193220_727_zps54cfb023.jpg


IMG_20131015_193243_855_zpsfa08f9cc.jpg


IMG_20131015_193233_951_zps72bae054.jpg


IMG_20131015_193531_143_zpsfe0a1ab9.jpg
 

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
1,176
16
38
Phoenix, AZ
I hate it when I get the runs. It's clear coat, so I'll be able to sand/buff it out with a LOT of work, but still.....oops. On the plus side, it does have a deep shiny look to it... :roflmao: