SIKDMAX LMM painfully slow Install/Build Thread
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FWIW you can get a special kit and make a o-ring
it comes with a special tool and some kind of glue,They are not as good but they do work.
Just a thought
Thanks for the offer Simon but I can get them off the internet etc here Im just trying to find something for the weekend. I dont know of any chevy dealers that have parts depts open today.
And, lol, I tried making me own oring last night with one of these bigger ones, cutting a piece out and melting it back together...... :spit::rofl::spit::rofl:
And, lol, I tried making me own oring last night with one of these bigger ones, cutting a piece out and melting it back together...... :spit::rofl::spit::rofl:
Heres how it is together. Note the clip
here it is apart. note the circles where there is a notch and a protrusion, those are like the key and index it, then the teeth fit together and lock in. needs the oring so its not plastic on plastic.
here it is apart. note the circles where there is a notch and a protrusion, those are like the key and index it, then the teeth fit together and lock in. needs the oring so its not plastic on plastic.
That's just stupid - why does GM do that???
Do you have a tractor supply place around you? Or maybe a place that makes hydraulic fittings? From my experience those types of places have EVERYTHING in house usually.
No oring on back of drvr rail, oring stays on fprv when you move it to the block that PPE added.
Im not sure how you even really got an oring on that fitting that goes to the back rail....I'm saying I dont think its machined out for one, but if it is dont use one and crank it on tight...
Im not sure how you even really got an oring on that fitting that goes to the back rail....I'm saying I dont think its machined out for one, but if it is dont use one and crank it on tight...
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Lol jasons all hey! There's no o ring in the kit for the back of the rail!
Oh ok! I'll go buy one! Lol.
Ok so that's not too much of a bitch I guess to fix.
I put up an ad on CL that I'd pay $10 for a 2.50" OD oring and got a ton of responses lol so I'm going to go pick one up shortly.
Oh ok! I'll go buy one! Lol.
Ok so that's not too much of a bitch I guess to fix.
I put up an ad on CL that I'd pay $10 for a 2.50" OD oring and got a ton of responses lol so I'm going to go pick one up shortly.
Coolant leak fixed for now... still need the GM part number for the correct oring.
Attempting the FPRV now.
Attempting the FPRV now.
Radiator fixed! Its a 2" OD o ring that goes in a recess about 2 inches up the hose. I had one that I cut to make smaller and its holding but Im going to get the factory one and replace it when I drain out the water and replace with dexcool on Tuesday.
And here, hopefully, is the culprit of my fuel leak. O-ring on the back pass thru fitting on the drivers side rail. As soon as this stuff is hooked back up Im going to start it up and check things again to make sure there are no other leaks. That GPCM bracket sure sucks!
Gonna have EFI LIVE hooked up too so I can log rail etc.
And here, hopefully, is the culprit of my fuel leak. O-ring on the back pass thru fitting on the drivers side rail. As soon as this stuff is hooked back up Im going to start it up and check things again to make sure there are no other leaks. That GPCM bracket sure sucks!
Gonna have EFI LIVE hooked up too so I can log rail etc.
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OK, fuel leak fixed, radiator fixed. Truck runs.
Full rail pressure, 29,000 psi.
I have a WD regulator in the valley, stock in the 2nd cp3. all connectors are plugged in. Throwin a P0088. Mike MMLMM and a few others have had this issue, what was it?
Gonna see if I Can get a new controller to test the problem, and then regulator swapping I guess? But someone on DP said it was their fuel temp sender wire being an issue?
Is there a tuning problem that if my tune isnt set for the WD it will go full pressure? Its a stock tune.
Full rail pressure, 29,000 psi.
I have a WD regulator in the valley, stock in the 2nd cp3. all connectors are plugged in. Throwin a P0088. Mike MMLMM and a few others have had this issue, what was it?
Gonna see if I Can get a new controller to test the problem, and then regulator swapping I guess? But someone on DP said it was their fuel temp sender wire being an issue?
Is there a tuning problem that if my tune isnt set for the WD it will go full pressure? Its a stock tune.
not sure about lmm but fuel temp on a lb7 has nothing to do with it
As Hnery said make sure its grounded good!
Could be the regultor is stuck? Bad connection bad ground and lastly bag controller. Im sure Dan will help you out
No power to either regulator will cause max pressure. Double check that all connections are "snapped" in.
Double check the ground or move the ground for the CP3 control box.
I'm not a big fan of running mismatched regulators. There is really no way to accurately control the fuel curve when each regulator is allowing a different amount of fuel. Ditch the WD regulator for now and run two stock ones.
Double check the ground or move the ground for the CP3 control box.
I'm not a big fan of running mismatched regulators. There is really no way to accurately control the fuel curve when each regulator is allowing a different amount of fuel. Ditch the WD regulator for now and run two stock ones.
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