LMM: Removing a lift.

[Novak]

Well my LMM is too dear to let go, my dad and I put her together and I refuse to ever get rid of it since he passed away. Like literally when my wife and I got engaged I made it very clear it's here to stay along with my 72' K5. However currently I'm making a shopping list for parts to lower it to stock and drop the rear a couple inches. When the lift was done I shaved the diff ears but I'm unsure of what the factory Crossmember looked like originally so that's a question mark.

*Kryptonite Stage 3 leveling kit
-UCA's with Kyrpto Ball Joints
- x4 Bilstein 5100 (front and rear)
- x2 Leveling keys
- Cam Bolt Kit

*Kryptonite Idler Support kit
- Extreme idler support
- Extreme idler gusset

*Kryptonite Sway Bar Links

*Cognito Differential Mount

*2" DJM Drop Shackles

* AC Delco LCA's

* GM Steering Knuckles

* SD Truck Springs Rear Leafs

The lift had some cutting on what I assume was the rear diff mount off the frame. The Cognito brace will support the diff and make up for what was cut off the diff specifically but I still need the piece of frame cut in the picture so that is something I'm either going to get from GM Direct or cut off another HD at the scrapyard. The person who is doing that fa work has done that kinda stuff before, he built his own solid axle for his 04' HD so I'm confident he can handle that. I haven't seen a thread for this before so I thought I could make one so if anyone has any input on anything like literally anything I'd be grateful since I can't find much info other than people doing a "meet and swap" at a local shop.
Thanks Gentlemen!



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[Novak]

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[Novak]

Here's where it was originally when I got it from Sellerz
Paid $28,500 for it with 60K on the clock out of East Tennessee

I got it and had some paint work done. I'm aware this is where I should have left it..

Ran it stock height for roughly 25K and then ordered in a 6 in ProComp lift and my American Force wheels. The lift required some cutting at the differential mounting ear and also the beam that the ear is supported by. My lift didn't cut any control arm cam bolt mounts instead it utilizes them. The new longer torsion bars and mounts were mounted up which requires so minor drilling and a lot of double checking measurements. The rear is a larger leaf arch with a block from procomp. My steering components stayed the same and also my CV axles are regular ole CV axles. The LCA was replaced by a long arm and my knuckle was replaced by a taller one. However the hub assembly remained the same for the CV axle. The ride quality was better than my torsion key/bars cranked once lifted. I really have no complaints. Procomp can build a lift and I was more than happy with the look and I still love the look but every so often I need a change on scenery and so I wanted to make sure I made a descent thread with lots of pictures to hopefully keep everyone interested!

*no pictures of lift installation but there will be of tear down

 

[Chad006]

I removed my lift and went back to stock height. I used cognito's ear replacement bracket, stock spindles/knuckles, and found local shop that had cut the lower diff crossmember out for a lift installation and welded it back in. If you have blocks on the rear axle you will also need stock u bolts. It took me about a day and a half by myself taking my time.

 

[Novak]

I have the cognito diff mount and I wasn't sure if I was gonna trust it or not but once I got it I could tell they were messing around when they welded that. I never thought of see if a local shop has that crossmember. That's a great idea.


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[Novak]

I know they are reputable but I'm jusaying!


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[Chad006]

Ya I hear you there, same thing crossed my mind. I will be putting mine to the test later this summer once I get it all together And can try for some quick time slips.

 

[Novak]

I'm half tempted to do a DHD brace while I'm in there


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[Novak]

Broke all the lugs loose.

Raised it up and popped the wheels and tires off since they are now sold!

 

[Novak]

If you have these tools right here this task will be much easier, I prefer air hammers because they are more efficient in opinion and the Torsion Bar tool is for safety purposes. It's task is to load the bar as high as if will go so you can removed the Torsion bolt safely

Disconnected my steering from the knuckle. My steering on this Procomp kit was left at factory height so you can add any type of steering you want more or less.

Popped off my brakes and rotors. These too are just plain Jane delco parts.

Removed sway bar end links and labeled them for the next gentlemen!

Sadly I didn't take any picture while I removed the Torsion Bar mount or bars however it's an "engaging" task. You NEED to use a torsion bar remover for SAFETY which is show in the picture above. I used that and took the tension of the Torsion bolts and pulled them out with my fingers. I removed the Torsion Bar tool and the Torsion Key dropped down I then used my air hammer to push the Torsion Bar from the rear towards the LCA until the key fell out of the Torsion Bar mount and followed by the Torsion Bar inself.

 

[Novak]

Connected to the the Torsion Bar mount is the compression struts which resemble stabilizer bars more or less. Those to we're removed and labeled with both of the Torsion Bar drop mounts and Torsion Bar keys .

 

[Novak]

For anyone doing this you need to not that the CV axles use spacers at the diff on both sides and that the bolts are longer so you need the same pitch but the at least 11/16" shorter hardware.
Popped the cover off the hub and pulls both CV's. The hub side mounting nut is 1 7/16" or 36mm

This one is slightly blurry but I started by removing the struts from the LCA and upper strut mount. Then moved onto ball joints and full dismount of the knuckle and LCA.

 

[Chevy1925]

just FYI but you dont have to use the torsion bar removal tool if you are dismantling the front end like you are.

jack the front end up, support truck by the frame, put jack under LCA, put a little preload on the arm with the jack, remove the UCA, tie rod ends, sway bar ends, spindle, shock and cv axle, then using the jack that is supporting the LCA, lower it down till th arm hangs freely. the arm will only have to move a couple inches lower than the LCA would be at full droop when connected to the UCA. its not enough to throw a jack off kilter as its lowered down and things wont go flying. done quite a few trucks this way as its easier if im redoing the front ends.

if you are just changing keys, ride height or something related to the crossmember, the tool makes it much easier.

 

[Novak]

I then lowered the truck down and sat the front diff on jack stands. Removed the top bolts on the top of both differential drop crossmembers and the two smaller bolts that bolts the front cross member drop to the higher OEM crossmember. And raised the truck up and differential stayed on the stands

 

[Novak]

just FYI but you dont have to use the torsion bar removal tool if you are dismantling the front end like you are.

jack the front end up, support truck by the frame, put jack under LCA, put a little preload on the arm with the jack, remove the UCA, tie rod ends, sway bar ends, spindle, shock and cv axle, then using the jack that is supporting the LCA, lower it down till th arm hangs freely. the arm will only have to move a couple inches lower than the LCA would be at full droop when connected to the UCA. its not enough to throw a jack off kilter as its lowered down and things wont go flying. done quite a few trucks this way as its easier if im redoing the front ends.

if you are just changing keys, ride height or something related to the crossmember, the tool makes it much easier.

I like that recipe!

 

[Novak]

Removed the mounts from the diff and laid everything out. Lift is sold to another DD member so I'm gonna hotsy everything off and get everything packed to ship! Just gonna wrap the leaf packs in plastic wrap and boxing tape.

 

[Chevy1925]

just out of curiosity, are those shocks nitrogen charged? in other words, do they go to full extention once unbolted or can you push them half way down and they stay there?

 

[Novak]

just out of curiosity, are those shocks nitrogen charged? in other words, do they go to full extention once unbolted or can you push them half way down and they stay there?

Once unbolted they extend all the way out and stay that way. They are still strong. I don't think they are nitrogen though just because when I originally ordered the kit it didn't have any "gas" stickers like they do when we order cowl struts for our bigger tractors at our tractor dealership

 

[Chevy1925]

Once unbolted they extend all the way out and stay that way. They are still strong. I don't think they are nitrogen though just because when I originally ordered the kit it didn't have any "gas" stickers like they do when we order cowl struts for our bigger tractors at our tractor dealership

They are gas charged if they extend on their own. I ask because having a non gas charged shock mounted in the position you had them would make them not work at all

 

[Novak]

Well once the lift was off the front the rear leaf packs were pretty easy. I did throw a ratchet strap around the pinion flange to keep try and minimize any sudden wraps forward off the jack stands since I didn't remove the rear drive shaft. I lowered the truck down until some weight was on the jack stands under the axle and disconnected my brake line. Removed all the leaf pack bolts and then raised the truck enough to get the weight off the packs. For easier removal.