yes, stainless steels so that they will turn gold and match the orange paint. The older wide-exit forms. Also had them put a spring on each tube to keep collectors from coming off (Not running the NHRA tether, but we have seen them come off and wanted to keep it from happening, period).
Our racing setup [pic heavy]
- Thread starter magnethead494
- Start date
Absolutely beautiful car and rail. Wiring job blows me away, I'm not patient enough to do it like that.
Thanks. Wiring took about 3 weeks and a few hundred zip-ties.
We milked the oil pretty good today. Had it way too rich on the barrel valve, so we're going to back off to the lean setup we had when it was in the camaro. We went about 20% richer, and it was too much. We think the gas primer is jetted about right, but we'll have to work on the methanol still. Once we're done with warm-ups and setting up the motor, we'll do an oil change and get some fresh stuff in it.
Here's the fire-up video. Editted down from 45 minutes to 15.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBKqL5Ew1u0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBKqL5Ew1u0
Ran it again today, figured out why the trans wouldn't go into park (with help from local trans builder), leaned it out and moved the timing and got it to build a little heat, but still didn't get as warm as we'd like. Trans leak is fixed and the fuel leak seems to have fixed itself. Idle for both fuels is a bit off, 1700 for the gas and 1400 for methanol, not sure if we're going to leave them be.
are yours stainless or mild steel? Looks like MS with a Nitroplate coating that's bubbling up? #1 looks a wee bit hot?
The headers on the camaro were MS w/ Nitroplate ad they were okay, defintely not the best condition for 2 years old...even without considering the bottoms were flattened out from banging the track on landing.
Does your track let you run the dragster in super/quick and the duramax in street? Motorplex lets big-class racers run their tow rigs in street (for points no less), but Kennedale does not allow any street competitors to run any other class at all (even Jr's in the morning)
The headers on the camaro were MS w/ Nitroplate ad they were okay, defintely not the best condition for 2 years old...even without considering the bottoms were flattened out from banging the track on landing.
Does your track let you run the dragster in super/quick and the duramax in street? Motorplex lets big-class racers run their tow rigs in street (for points no less), but Kennedale does not allow any street competitors to run any other class at all (even Jr's in the morning)
That is the top dragster version. Mild steel with supposed ceramic coating on the inside and chrome plating on the outside. They started turning from the time we made our initial warmup.
We can run different classes but I only stick with electronics. With running the dragster and our door car then we have 2 jr's with the kids it keeps us busy.
Oh OK. We got the last of the wide body gen 2 stainless. He had a 4+ week backorder on the gen3's or anything mild steel.
Yea, some of the people here struggle with juniors. Its almost a no win situation. One racer gave up now that his kid has a license, is going to run him in street instead. Same entry and better payout, plus helps the transition to a door car.
In the camaro, we triple entered in super, pro, and quick electronics. We were usually the 16 car bump in quick. Several nights they didn't make a 24 car field, so it was 15 dragsters and us. One race at motorplex, is was 14 dragsters, a 4.80 TS car, and us. So still basically 15 fast cars then us.
In the camaro, we triple entered in super, pro, and quick electronics. We were usually the 16 car bump in quick. Several nights they didn't make a 24 car field, so it was 15 dragsters and us. One race at motorplex, is was 14 dragsters, a 4.80 TS car, and us. So still basically 15 fast cars then us.
We have thought about coming over there and running some but our regular payout for electronics is 2000 so it's hard to drive several hours when that is 30 minutes away.
You run at twin cities? That's a huge payout, highest around here was 1500 before Denton got bought out, now its 1200. But they make up for it by paying down several rounds, to the 1/4's, and if they have enough cars, 1/8ths becomes a money round.
I know this is a Dmax diesel based site and I have nothing to add to this thread but just wanted to let y'all know I really enjoy these kinds of threads. Lots of details & pictures & excellent work. So don't be discouraged if there aren't many "atta boys" or many posts because I, and probably several others, are thoroughly enjoying spectating. 
Keep it up!
Kudos for putting the body slam by the slick in the start-up video. Sry but I still chuckled when dad asked what you were trying to do even though I'm sure it sucked for you! :spit:
Keep it up!
Kudos for putting the body slam by the slick in the start-up video. Sry but I still chuckled when dad asked what you were trying to do even though I'm sure it sucked for you! :spit:
Mitch, I watch the views on the listing page. The forum I moderate has 6,500 views and last I checked, this one is over 1,000. So i know people are spectating .
I built the dial board and about 10 others and tried to sell them to local racers. Some did and some didn't work. It's been an ongoing battle, but everything always worked on the camaro.
It worked yesterday, but not today. In the video I quickly stripped a shielding wire and shoved it in the ground connector, but I don't think it quite worked (but it may have helped a little). I have an idea what the cause in, and I'm tracking it down. The control switches only logic off of 2 micro-amps, and the modified unit that I already had prepared (and seemed to work better on a second run I didn't record) requires an 11 milliamp signal to control. It's still a work in progress. The coil wires off the digital 7 box run 535V at 135 millijoules, or 135 milliwatts per second, or about 2.5 micro-amps. The coil output to distributor is 45,000 volts at 2 amps. There's no way I can avoid the secondary currents, but I'm hoping by bringing the controller trigger current above the coil primary current, that the induced charges may not be so significant.
Also, painter called this morning and said he doesn't want to repaint the panels. So he stripped them and brought them back [you can see them at the start of the video]. There's 3 painters in the area, 2 of which haven't given us what we wanted. Hopefully the third try will be the charm. The painter pretty much admitted that he'd never done a pearl main coat before, and it was obvious not everything was done at once. The 3rd painter we're going to try knows how to work pearl and welcomed us to put on paint suits and help spray the panels or supervise the spraying to get the finish that dad wants.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thzCgX2uYiQ
.I built the dial board and about 10 others and tried to sell them to local racers. Some did and some didn't work. It's been an ongoing battle, but everything always worked on the camaro.
It worked yesterday, but not today. In the video I quickly stripped a shielding wire and shoved it in the ground connector, but I don't think it quite worked (but it may have helped a little). I have an idea what the cause in, and I'm tracking it down. The control switches only logic off of 2 micro-amps, and the modified unit that I already had prepared (and seemed to work better on a second run I didn't record) requires an 11 milliamp signal to control. It's still a work in progress. The coil wires off the digital 7 box run 535V at 135 millijoules, or 135 milliwatts per second, or about 2.5 micro-amps. The coil output to distributor is 45,000 volts at 2 amps. There's no way I can avoid the secondary currents, but I'm hoping by bringing the controller trigger current above the coil primary current, that the induced charges may not be so significant.
Also, painter called this morning and said he doesn't want to repaint the panels. So he stripped them and brought them back [you can see them at the start of the video]. There's 3 painters in the area, 2 of which haven't given us what we wanted. Hopefully the third try will be the charm. The painter pretty much admitted that he'd never done a pearl main coat before, and it was obvious not everything was done at once. The 3rd painter we're going to try knows how to work pearl and welcomed us to put on paint suits and help spray the panels or supervise the spraying to get the finish that dad wants.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thzCgX2uYiQ
Yes we run at twin city's. Very good track. They always guarantee the money. Good people to deal with. Track is super smooth. I wouldn't be scared to run 4.0's there.
Already getting complaints about peoples dogs pooping when the dragster starts halfway across the development. Its definitely louder, but jeez.