i put it in when i was putting the motor together. to swap the pump you would have to pull the front cover and the upper pan to get to everything to remove the pump.
oil temp with twins
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i put it in when i was putting the motor together. to swap the pump you would have to pull the front cover and the upper pan to get to everything to remove the pump.
Which is the best port to hook a gauge up to? Where is it located? And electric or mech for the gauge? Planning on running the cts insight for my gauges with efi live.
See the picture I posted. I chose to read the hot oil temps before the cooler, as I want to see how hard the oil is working. My guage is just some $50 autometer Z series mechanical.
If it helps any, here's a pic of the oil flow through the cooler and filter assembly. Thanks to Turbotug for posting this 2 years ago on the Place.. :thumb:
Got my guage stuff today and getting wire and all the stuff I need and will probably be watching oil temps by the end of the weekend.
Can you do me a favor and label the flow arrows in your pic?
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Thanks hondarider552, I will be ordering a gauge or figure a way to make the cts work in that port when I install my twins real soon.
Oil drains have to be free flowing to keep oil from backing up in the turbo's and getting past the seals or destroying them. Through a cooler is not free flowing at all, here is something to think about some twin kits drain strait to the pan and there is no cooling of that oil at all. On some of trents kits (not supporting trent never bought from him) the oil returns to the valve cover and the oil is getting a little bit of cooling from the engine surfaces on the way back down to the pan how much who knows but I'm sure it helps. I'm not so sure the oil heating problem is from the actual second turbo as much as I think its more the increase heat load on the pistons heating the oil, even though egt's are down to a more acceptable level there is way more engine load with the twins you think your safe now cause your egt's are lower so you throw more fuel at it
I agree destroyed 2 turbos because i could not evacuate the drain oil fast enough due to my big oil pump. that being said you can buy a evac pump for about 100 bucks and use it
or i dont see why a person can not just come off the block and back into the block?
I agree destroyed 2 turbos because i could not evacuate the drain oil fast enough due to my big oil pump. that being said you can buy a evac pump for about 100 bucks and use it
You talking more like the filter bypass kits??
I need an engine builder to talk to about where to hook up my oil cooler and what flow/press effect it could have. I am all for trying some things out but I haven't been into the dmax bottom end so I don't know the oil passage circuits. I need info!!
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Either using the oil gallery plugs or there are plugs off the oil cooler that you should be able to use.
Abby is setup to circ the oil pan with a pump and cooler I just tapped into the drain and the one in the side of the pan...Mine is more used for cooling in the pits but i doubt it will even get used, I will see how hot it gets from not running any cooler at all.
For that matter where you come off the block to go to the second turbo, Just put a cooler in between
Wiring is ran, just waiting to get my pilllar off and mount the gauge, I tihnk I used a 1' 3/8's extension, wobble 10mm head head allen, and a breaker bar about 2 feet long to get that damn plug loose. MF'er was tight!
Did a 10 mile loop or so about 50/50 highway/city, outside air temps were 98-101*, oil tempt never got above 195-210. Granted Im not climbing hills yet, or towing anything, but im surprised its not in the 210-230* range, unloaded. Sender is in the hex plug, forward, and above the oil filter. Pleased so far. :thumb:
Has anyone else with twins noticed the hot side intercooler tube is excessivily hot? I know hot how they can get, but I never felt an intercooler tube this hot on my LBZ running it hard. My LB7 has banks tubes, and a banks intercooler, and even light throttle driving yields the same results. Im not really worried about it, just wondering.. My DD tune is 1500Us on 25% over sticks.
My DD tune is 1500Us on 25% over sticks.
For those of you that have a oil temp gauge, did you use pipe tape on your fittings? I did, no leaks, but just ran across a old thread on DD that said not to...
For those of you that have a oil temp gauge, did you use pipe tape on your fittings? I did, no leaks, but just ran across a old thread on DD that said not to...
If you use pipe dope be sure to put it a couple threads back on the fitting. If you start at the tip it will contaminate your oil.
You pretty much have to put something on pipe fittings unless you are one time using the threads and gauld the crap out if it.
Where did you put you temp sensor again?? I picked up a gauge yesterday, need to put it in
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Correct me if I'm wrong but that would be inefficient, it needs to be after the heat source to be most effective. If you had it before the second turbo it would only cool the oil to the second turbo and the crank case would still be super heated.
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I didn't realize that with the lml.
The lmm is a high flow low pressure pump while the older ones are lower flow but higher pressure right?
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If the second turbo is your added heat source causing the problem, then you would need the cooler as close to the return oil from that turbo as possible for max system temp drop. Like the reservoir where it drains.
If you put a cooler just before the turbo, it would cool the oil for about a foot before it is heated right back up by the second turbo and that hot oil will then pass through all of your engine bearings at the high temp. You gain nothing. It would be like putting an intercooler before the turbo.
Also, if you mount the cooler in the engine bay then you have a small temp differential to allow the cooler to pull heat.
what cooler and lube pump did you go with to circulate the oil in your pan on Abby? The pan is going to be the best place to draw the oil to cool if that's where the second turbo drains and plus that's where the engine oil pump draws.
Even if you have a small 1.5gpm pump you will pass system capacity through the cooler every 2min. With the low flow of the oil cooling loop, it is going to take a pretty big plate style cooler to be effective. It needs to be a high pass count cooler (which plate types are). 12v fans can be bought anywhere and would definitely increase the coolers efficiency.
Just adding to the system capacity would drop oil operating temps.
To maximize these efforts, a lower water temp thermostat could be added. I remember seeing a post about the pullers/racers running a lower temp thermostat to keep from getting warm at the end or right after a pass. How did this work out for daily driving??
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