coker6365

Coker6303's ***** Daddy
Dec 4, 2011
486
16
18
If I had my new L5P cooler sitting here I would test it. Lol, hoping this is an oil cooler issue...


a517a0ccfa43a9e05918825338bd9e09.jpg


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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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If I had my new L5P cooler sitting here I would test it. Lol, hoping this is an oil cooler issue...


a517a0ccfa43a9e05918825338bd9e09.jpg


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See, shoulda paid up and you woulda had mine! :roflmao: :hug: That sucks richard, i hope so as well

Running a low speed moderate load point on the dyno at work I see about a 15 degree difference between oil sump temp (pan temp) and oil gallery temp pre cooler. FYI

galley temp higher than pan or vise versa?
 

hntngkd

Member
Jun 24, 2013
162
5
18
Attica, Mi
How far down stream of the oil pump is the thermocouple?

Front left galley hole right under the water pump outlet. Also keep in mind these oil temps are taken while keeping the coolant temp at a constant temperature. If coolant temp goes up things change rather quickly.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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How so? The pan is where all the hot oil is being returned



He was saying it was hard to tell if the cooler made much difference and almost seemed higher temp overall but he had just moved the temp sensor to the pan as well. We both were under the impression we’d see cooler temps before the oil pump than after pressurizing it again into a hot oil galley.
 

coker6365

Coker6303's ***** Daddy
Dec 4, 2011
486
16
18
See, shoulda paid up and you woulda had mine! :hug: That sucks richard, i hope so as well







galley temp higher than pan or vise versa?
Lol, Allen has it so it hasnt made it to me yet. I have to finish his LLY trans first.

Based on what Josh was seeing and the oil pressure correlation, I believe the pan is showing about 15-20 degrees lower than the original temp sensor location on his setup. I have slept since then so don't hold me to it. I have an external cooler on the LBZ and have been monitoring the temps since day 1 on this build. I was planning on swapping to the new L5P cooler and no external to see how it does and then adding the external as a test dummy.

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PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
3,517
501
113
Central OH
Front left galley hole right under the water pump outlet. Also keep in mind these oil temps are taken while keeping the coolant temp at a constant temperature. If coolant temp goes up things change rather quickly.

Oh for sure. When I was at the tech center, if you wanted to run 230+ coolant you needed an aux cooler to keep pan temp under 275F. Even with how "good" everyone thinks the Cummins ISB coolers are
 

Chilly

Member
Dec 4, 2018
101
3
18
I have yet to see over 220 on my oil temp gauge since doing the swap hauling a 2015 GMC dually on my 24’ bumper pull trailer (probably around 21k lbs gross between the truck and trailer). That load would normally see peak temps of 240-250 with the factory cooler, but I am hesitant to compare temps because I had to move my temp probe to the pan with the new cooler. I need to get an adapter sorted out so I can put it back in the cooler housing like I had it before reading pre-cooler temps. On the highway, it is usually showing around 180-190 where before it was usually around 210-220.

Let me know what you come up with. I am in the same boat. Might just make my own.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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unless you plan to take it fully apart and clean the whole thing out after, i wouldnt. being its before the filter, you have some margin of safety though. you just dont want anything getting into the post filter galley.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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if you guys want to send me a stock plug, ill throw it on the lathe and build you an adapter out of it. This will be strictly for those who've been on this site and contributing (basically aint doing it for free for newbs). getting the truck out of the garage free'd some time up finally :roflmao: :D

need your sensor along with it and would be best if you send me a pic of the sensor prior so i can make sure there is enough room to make it work based on hex size.
 

LB7 Lover 1994

Know Nothing
Jul 20, 2013
262
0
16
Greene County, In
if you guys want to send me a stock plug, ill throw it on the lathe and build you an adapter out of it. This will be strictly for those who've been on this site and contributing (basically aint doing it for free for newbs). getting the truck out of the garage free'd some time up finally :roflmao: :D

need your sensor along with it and would be best if you send me a pic of the sensor prior so i can make sure there is enough room to make it work based on hex size.

So here’s what I done. I haven’t had time to finish it but the new cooler is bolted to the block. I didn’t separate the housings but I took the plug out directly above where I drilled and tapped and stuffed it tight with a paper towel. Then carefully and slowly drilled and tapped. Cleaned with brake clean then shoved a 20 gauge shot gun brush to clean any straggling metal pieces out. Removed the paper towel and sprayed compressed air straight down and again with brake clean. Did all of this MAKING SURE TO NEVER tip the cooler in a way that would allow any fragments to make its way into the cooler core. I figured with the care that I took plus being pre filter I shouldn’t have any issues. If you choose this be sure to do it far down enough that you sensor won’t make contact with the front differential. Also my strong suggestion is to use a 1/8 to 1/4 pipe bushing and tap the housing a half turn at a time to insure that the tip of your probe is just barely in the galley as not to impede flow at all!

James I really wanted to mill out the center of the plug but after measuring my hex is only a few thousandths smaller than the OD of the plugs and I would have compromised the integrity of the plug itself making it fit. Hope this helps anyone. I am still trying to find out the “style” of this plug to maybe find a different option for those in the future to do this.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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Phoenix Az
So here’s what I done. I haven’t had time to finish it but the new cooler is bolted to the block. I didn’t separate the housings but I took the plug out directly above where I drilled and tapped and stuffed it tight with a paper towel. Then carefully and slowly drilled and tapped. Cleaned with brake clean then shoved a 20 gauge shot gun brush to clean any straggling metal pieces out. Removed the paper towel and sprayed compressed air straight down and again with brake clean. Did all of this MAKING SURE TO NEVER tip the cooler in a way that would allow any fragments to make its way into the cooler core. I figured with the care that I took plus being pre filter I shouldn’t have any issues. If you choose this be sure to do it far down enough that you sensor won’t make contact with the front differential. Also my strong suggestion is to use a 1/8 to 1/4 pipe bushing and tap the housing a half turn at a time to insure that the tip of your probe is just barely in the galley as not to impede flow at all!

James I really wanted to mill out the center of the plug but after measuring my hex is only a few thousandths smaller than the OD of the plugs and I would have compromised the integrity of the plug itself making it fit. Hope this helps anyone. I am still trying to find out the “style” of this plug to maybe find a different option for those in the future to do this.

there is plenty of meat to recess the allen key and then punch in the temp sensor while still having room to grab the sensor with a wrench and tighten. if you look at my pics, thats how mine is done.