Oil cooling
- Thread starter super diesel
- Start date
anywhere under the truck will have turbulent air which means you are 100% relying on the fan to do all the cooling. its best to keep it out of anywhere the air can come up and start circulating around as well because the fan will just start cycling the same air through the cooler. I have my fuel cooler mounted just off the frame, parallel to the frame (wont fit in the factory fuel cooler spot). it has a cheapy 1000cfm fan (doubt its that much cfm) but it seems to work and i can manage fuel temps.
i would suggest upping your fan to something like mine. the Spal 12" 1650cfm fan. I have my oil cooler mounted in the front now but its about 30* from horizontal. im limited on space up there BUT mounting here lets high pressure air from driving down the road hit it and then the fan to suck it through. Having the much larger rad and aux rad has combated the little loss in air flow over the cooler as the water to oil cooler works much better now.
again, rooftop, i dont feel this will fix your issue. you need to get those coolant temps down. what fan clutch, thermostats are you running? whens the last time you pulled the cooling stack apart and degreased/cleaned it? you have no boost leaks correct? how hot of a tune are you pulling on?
i would suggest upping your fan to something like mine. the Spal 12" 1650cfm fan. I have my oil cooler mounted in the front now but its about 30* from horizontal. im limited on space up there BUT mounting here lets high pressure air from driving down the road hit it and then the fan to suck it through. Having the much larger rad and aux rad has combated the little loss in air flow over the cooler as the water to oil cooler works much better now.
again, rooftop, i dont feel this will fix your issue. you need to get those coolant temps down. what fan clutch, thermostats are you running? whens the last time you pulled the cooling stack apart and degreased/cleaned it? you have no boost leaks correct? how hot of a tune are you pulling on?
Speaking of fan clutches, who has the best? Mine sticks on 90% of the time on my daily.
Oh hell I'll take that one off your hands :roflmao: most clutch fans done come on soon enough I've been through a few bad ones, I had a Kodiak clutch that worked well and came on early but it failed fairly quick
This one on my LB7 is picky as hell. It's on 24/7 but will sometimes disengage while accelerating above 2k rpm then come back on after a shift.
I'll insert a plug for Kennedy's fan clutch here I guess. With no other modifications done, and replacing a clutch that had 220k miles on it, which would stay coupled when cold but uncouple and stay uncoupled during most driving when warm, we saw an immediate 2mpg increase and obviously cooler ECT and TFT temps when at operating temp. It's been on for 2 years now and has been pretty consistent in all ambient temperatures.
i guess i could have mentioned that too, there are several threads with tons of satisfied people using that clutch. i wish that was my only problem :roflmao:
I hate this forum, Mine has been acting up off and on, and the truck is apart, so guess what just happened.
Everything seems to be above the bumper cooling wise. Not sure how the bumper is blocking anything.
Maybe my fan clutch isn't engaging soon enough? I notice when it does come on it cools things down in a hurry. When I was trying to figure out cooling issues last year, while on the road, I changed the fan clutch with whoever had one at the moment and that was O'Reilly's. At what temp should the fan clutch engage?
Cooling stack was cleaned out last summer.
It’s not, gm has cooling ducted through the stock bumper which now becomes blocked by your bumper. It’s not a huge issue but all these little things add up
I hear ya. That little plastic "scoop" piece below the radiator.
To answer your other questions I missed. I have efilive with idaho rob tunes. It was on 2 which should be heavy tow. I like the turbo brake option but not if it causes my truck to overheat.
T-stats were changed with new GM stats when I did the engine.
What's annoying to me is the stack has to get hot for the fan to engage. My oil temps quickly rise above coolant temps in a hurry when pulling a hill. Maybe get a clutch with a lower threshold? Don't think a solid hub is the answer. That seems extreme?
its time for different t-stats and fan then. kennedy or hayden 2886 fan clutch come on at 190-195 instead of the 220* like stock. (kennedy is the best of them, buy that). i would pick up a set of 180-185* t-stats from Napa (get good failsafe ones). coolant temp unloaded will be lower but wont affect you getting heat in the cab on cold days. By time they fully open, the new fan clutch will be coming on and keeping the truck much cooler.
try those and see how oil temps do. I forgot to metion that if the oil cooler fan has anything blocking air behind it, as in say a body panel or frame within 12" from it, it will severely reduce CFM from the fan as well. They do not like any kind of head pressure. So make sure it has free flow but if all that doesnt work, its time for a higher cfm fan.
try those and see how oil temps do. I forgot to metion that if the oil cooler fan has anything blocking air behind it, as in say a body panel or frame within 12" from it, it will severely reduce CFM from the fan as well. They do not like any kind of head pressure. So make sure it has free flow but if all that doesnt work, its time for a higher cfm fan.
I want to see if I can get one of the new 2020 L5P oil coolers and see if it keeps oil temps more in line with coolant temps. Mine will go 40 degrees higher than coolant on a hot day pulling a good size load, and it causes my oil pressure to suffer. I'm sure my engine isn't happy running 30 psi at 1800 RPM with 20k lbs behind it.