"OFFICIAL" What did you do to your D-Max today?
- Thread starter Hot COCOAL
- Start date
.....aaaaaand now Im further confuzzled. :rofl: Up/down, back/forth --must be you adjust backlash at the pinion?
Both will affect total backlash, but both have to be balanced together to get a good pattern. Backlash is set by moving the carrier side to side, using either the spanner adjusters on diffs like ours (and other big diffs) or moving shims around on smaller diffs. (This may be confusing because bigger rear ends use shims on the pinion instead of a crush sleeve, and the quote I posted is based on setting up big truck centers).
The heel is the outer most part of the ring gear, toe is towards the carrier. Then high / low is in reference to the ring gear mating surface.
Well iirc the big rear ends still have shims under the pinion bearing at the head, they just use a solid pinion spacer and you shim that to get preload right instead of a crush sleeve. I use a solid spacer in all the off road rigs I've built cause it takes just one rock to jam the pinion flange back and ruin your day lol
That's assuming this is what your talking about. I may be mistaken
Got my front diff re geard and full overhaul to 4.10s to match the new rear end. Also did pump rub in spare tcase. Next to do full suncoast build on my spare allison and then swap it all over and have a new born truck again
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Took it shooting. Then came home and cleaned out the bed and rinsed it. Washed and dried engine bay, wheels, tires and wheel wells and then rest of truck. Wiped down everything and cleaned door jams then everything got a quick spray wax
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Debating wheather or not to put a built motor in. It's still just sitting in the garage patiently waiting for surgery.
After driving a gasser for a DD for the first time in 11 years I just don't think I can do it, at least not without killing them faster having to run them harder to keep up, decisions decisions.
After driving a gasser for a DD for the first time in 11 years I just don't think I can do it, at least not without killing them faster having to run them harder to keep up, decisions decisions.
crank, rods and pistons = reger resistant. i would say "reger proof" but you would prove me wrong :roflmao:
Pulled a oil sample and changed over to the new CK4 full synthetic from Schaeffers with a fleet guard filter.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Installed my drop shackles today. Took about an hour. Top bolt kept getting hung on a frame rivet is what took the longest lol Novak had me inspired. Now I have perfectly flat CV's and the truck is 100% level sitting on 22x12s. Couldn't be happier. I just need to somehow move back or relocate the washer fluid reservoir and I will be run free at full lock
Had the windshield and driver side window replaced. Apparently the aftermarket can't make a side window worth a damn. The Chinese junk you get now does not fit the tracks well and jams up as it goes up slowing the regulator way down or stopping it. Windshield is actual GM glass. Least the glass guy is being cool and getting a couple different mfg glass to try and see what works best. If they don't work, gunna have to figure out how to get a factory window from the dealer. Just can't be easy.
Truck was surging at idle and would hard start after running more than an hour. Pulled the new donaldson setup w/ bowl and the nipple came out of the nicktane adapter. Air was getting into the fuel system b/w filter and adapter. I wish there was a way to really crank on the nipple without fukin up the threads. I'm goin back to a cat filter, the donaldson setup is too close to the manifold for my liking.
Anyone by change have experience with the DJM 6/8 lowering kit? I decided I might want to go lower but struggling to find anyone or anything about them on a 3/4 ton.....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro