Michael, they went out today. I can hardly wait to get mine back and try this mod.
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Mod to turbo intake horn
- Thread starter super diesel
- Start date
Thanks much Tom. He was instrumental in getting some of these for me. It helps all of us. :hug:
I did this a few years back and have had no side effects. I shimed it almost close though. You can also use a high pressure rail end screw to totally block it off as well. This was meant for bleeding off spike pressures sent to the rails. I don't know what the blow off pressure is. He's some picks of the mod. Never noticed any differance with or without it.
#1. is the FPRV (or fuel pressure blowoff valve also).
#2. is a look inside at the hex head screw to be removed.
#3. A look at the guts.
#4. A look down inside at the tine pin hole opening (where the fuel passes).
#5. .120 worth of shim. The slid can move .125 (IIRC).
#6. Is the shim down inside and ready for reassemble.
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Ya i dont see it any different than running a race valve on a lly
I pulled the whole shebang out and we welded it on the high pressure side and it holds 180 mpa that way it takes up less room for the Y bridge
I like the way you did your though more professional like
I pulled the whole shebang out and we welded it on the high pressure side and it holds 180 mpa
that way it takes up less room for the Y bridgeI like the way you did your though more professional like
I could've sworn that Merchant told me once that he takes that valve out and puts it on the end of one of the rails and it works fine. I'll have to ask him for details next time I talk to him.
This is fine to do. However I would run another banjo bolt to a hose that goes to a return line so it case it does blowoff some pressure (fuel) it wont go shooting on to the exhaust or anything. LB7s have room for it on the back of the passenger rail. You can connect all the returns where they use to be with 5/16 fuel line and a 5/16 "T" barb fitting (or even move them out of the way a little). Make no mistake. This takes some digging in the motor to get done. Results may vary
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This is fine to do. However I would run another banjo bolt to a hose that goes to a return line so it case it does blowoff some pressure (fuel) it wont go shooting on to the exhaust or anything. LB7s have room for it on the back of the passenger rail. You can connect all the returns where they use to be with 5/16 fuel line and a 5/16 "T" barb fitting (or even move them out of the way a little). Make no mistake. This takes some digging in the motor to get done. Results may vary
I paraphrased what he told me in passing while we were looking at a motor he was building. He throws so much info at me when we're talking that I usually cant keep up, let alone remember everything. Old brain syndrome, I guess.
I know he does more than just plug the sensor into the line and run it off into space. I just dont know what. :rofl:
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I didn't think you were bud. The way you put it is funny though. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Ok. For those wondering about progress, here's some. Problem for me is, the dang heater went out in the shop . Temps have come up a little from what they were. It's hard to touch anything metalic out there. I need to get a few of them to a sand blaster before they can go out. Thanks to all who are helping this get underway. Can't do it with out you all.
. Temps have come up a little from what they were. It's hard to touch anything metalic out there. I need to get a few of them to a sand blaster before they can go out. Thanks to all who are helping this get underway. Can't do it with out you all.Attachments
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I know which one is the one I sent ya
Back to the left hahaha
Looks nice, keep up the good work Micheal
Back to the left hahaha
Looks nice, keep up the good work Micheal
Those look a bit familiar. :rofl:
I didnt realize just how much bigger you opened those up til that pic. Oh, this is gonna be good!
Ok. For those wondering about progress, here's some. Problem for me is, the dang heater went out in the shop
sneakin a comment in here. Mike, that is a fairly sharp angle/transition from the main pipe flow. Just my opinion, but don't you think that is going to induce turbulence? If you could blend to the main flow better, it will be a benefit. Apologize, its rude to critique others work, just lending a hand to something I have an appreciation for.
Nice innovation work.
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Michael (KB). Do you realy think it's going to cause a air flow reduction from turbulance? I doubt it. Thats why I did it like this. It's a 10 deg transition. It's not as steep as it looks. That also creats a eddi area that has vertually no effect on the flow to the inducer (it's larger). It also decreases the vacume effect by giving a empty zone (no other place for the air to excape to and mismatch turbulance isn't a problem). I could cut the whole thing on a angle to match the intake size to the max inlet size on the turbo, but the limit is still the tube ID. The result have been enjoyed so far. Just got a reveiw the other day from one of the testers on the top end. He said by SOTP was noticeably healthier.
No worries, could just be the view on that pic. I am sure it is better, anything you can do to eliminate a "line" when machining will help. That is 200 mph flow hitting that transition, so I would definately predict turbulence, FWIW.
Log some before/after MAF measurements too. My guess is there will be an observeable difference that will help prove this worthy.
Log some before/after MAF measurements too. My guess is there will be an observeable difference that will help prove this worthy.
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