Look what UPS dropped off yesterday!

[knagel]

Now I just have to figure out the best way to get to this bugger. Can't be that bad, an hour or two right? Oops, I meant a day or two Can I reuse anything or do I need to get any gaskets before I start? This is the 4094avnt for anyone who is curious. Also putting a DE downpipe, BD manifold, 40% over injectors in at the same time. Would put Mike's dual CP3 set up on if it ever get here (hint, hint)

I'm open to suggestions and hints to make this as smooth as possible

 

[othrgrl]

I'm really interested in seeing how this does with max effort tuning. You may to join team borrowed time though.

 

[TrentNell]

you will probably only need oil drain tube gasket's , the one on the block never seems to come off in 1 peice . i would wait on any others you should be able to re-use the up pipe gaskets unless the look bad . if its the same a cheetah install it took me about 6hr's but just average pace .

 

[knagel]

you will probably only need oil drain tube gasket's , the one on the block never seems to come off in 1 peice . i would wait on any others you should be able to re-use the up pipe gaskets unless the look bad . if its the same a cheetah install it took me about 6hr's but just average pace .

Thanks for the help. Do you need to drain the coolant? Do you need to take the pass side inner fender well out? Do you need to take the glow plug module out? Any special tools I may need?

What about changing injector tips. Do I need new coppers or can I reuse them. How hard do the injectors come out, and do you need a special tool? Do you just unscrew the end and change tip then screw back together? Any o-rings.

Sorry for all the questions, don't want a two day project turning into a two week project because I'm waiting on parts or because I was an idiot and broke something that could have been spared if I had just asked questions

Thanks again,

Kev

 

[TrentNell]

Thanks for the help. Do you need to drain the coolant? Do you need to take the pass side inner fender well out? Do you need to take the glow plug module out? Any special tools I may need?

What about changing injector tips. Do I need new coppers or can I reuse them. How hard do the injectors come out, and do you need a special tool? Do you just unscrew the end and change tip then screw back together? Any o-rings.

Sorry for all the questions, don't want a two day project turning into a two week project because I'm waiting on parts or because I was an idiot and broke something that could have been spared if I had just asked questions

Thanks again,

Kev

cant help on the injectors i have not done a set yet ......... yes you will have to drain the coolant but not all the way just maybe half . no special tools for the turbo swap , and yess pull the pass side fender well out . you will figure it out just start dissasembling and it will make sence .if you hit a snag post up we can help .

 

[bullfrogjohnson]

Turbo is pretty simple, just start pulling stuff off the top of the motor and work your way down.

He is something nice for the injectors

http://www.dynomitediesel.com/uploads/files2/LLY and LBZ Nozzle replacement Instructions.pdf

 

[SmokeShow]

You may find some REALLY helpful guides in THIS section... I didn't see LBZ injector removal guide but I *think* it is close enough to the same proceedure as doing them on a LLY that the LLY guide should be a help. IF NOT, ask Henry nicely and he'll probably post up the proceedure for the LBZ also.

 

[knagel]

Turbo is pretty simple, just start pulling stuff off the top of the motor and work your way down.

He is something nice for the injectors

http://www.dynomitediesel.com/uploads/files2/LLY and LBZ Nozzle replacement Instructions.pdf

That is so good info right there! Thanks

 

[knagel]

has anyone ever reused the copper washers and o-rings and had any luck?

What's a GM J-46594? Pry bar??????????? :rofl:

 

[bullfrogjohnson]

has anyone ever reused the copper washers and o-rings and had any luck?

What's a GM J-46594? Pry bar??????????? :rofl:

You might be able to reuse the washers but I wouldnt reuse the o-rings. Its just not worth it.

I would assume its a pry bar. I made a injector puller at work for mine. I will try and snaps some pics of it.

 

[othrgrl]

Thanks for the help. Do you need to drain the coolant? Basically just to a level lower than the connections for the turbo
Do you need to take the pass side inner fender well out? That is normally the easiest way to get to all the up-pipe bolts and the downpipe
Do you need to take the glow plug module out? Only if it gets in your way
Any special tools I may need? 12 point 12mm socket, the 18mm bolts that hold down the turbo are a pain to get an extension and socket on - a swivel tip 3/8 drive extension will help.

Do I need new coppers or can I reuse them. New coppers are recommended, new O-rings will most likely be necessary and are recommended anyway
How hard do the injectors come out, and do you need a special tool? Not hard to get them out, take the bolts out of the hold downs and pluck them right out, if they are stubborn pry between the hold down and the head, not anywhere on the injector

Answers in blue

 

[duratothemax]

I never had a problem reusing the copper washers or o-rings, as long as they arent cracked/dry rotted.

 

[DMAXchris]

subscribing.....
very interested in the vnt. Thinking of using it in my twin setup.
Injectors come out that easy? I really didnt need to hear that.

 

[TNRGreene]

I just had to replace a re used copper Orings are quite expensive, coppers are cheap

 

[TNRGreene]

Injectors come out that easy?

Yes but be careful of losing the little spacers under the hold downs.

 

[Turbo Performance]

I re-used coppers and O rings when I did my injectors, I just made sure they looked okay and weren't tore up. If you're nervous about it, just buy them and have them there in case yours are bad or you hurt one.

 

[Randy5.0]

I just swapped injectors. It was harder to get them out than it was to change the tips. Be careful, because that shim on top of the needle is freakin tiny. I changed the copper washers on mine, I figured for less than 5 bucks a piece I wouldn't risk it.
You'll have to take the heatshield off of the turbo to get to the v-band clamp on the stock downpipe, I just cut it with tinsnips and folded it up until I could get it out.
I would take the plastic fender wells out. It makes it much easier to get to things.
Also, I have one extra spring clip that holds the plastic fuel line in on the top of the injectors. I had one jump on me. Be careful of that as well.
I'll just p.m. you my number and you can call if you want to. I'd like to help.
I'm in Iowa anyway.
-Randy

 

[knagel]

Thanks for all the helpful posts everyone! Pics will be taken. I have to have all this done by May 16 as this is the first TnT for the pulling association I pull with. Trying to get done planting soybeans right now too. Looks like it is going to be some late nites. Man I hate hangovers :rofl:

I'm gonna order the coppers and o-rings from the local bosch diesel shop just to have on hand incase. I don't know what I'm the most excited about, trying one of the 1st 4094 avnt's or my 40 over sticks Still kinda nervous about putting dual CP3's on tho. I guess dual CP3's and a stock tune couldn't hurt anything right:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Kevin

 

[RPM Motorsports]

Don't be a clean freak and use brake kleen or carb cleaner around the injectors before you remove them from the head. The cleaner eats the O-ring and you will be replacing $11 a piece O-rings for sure... Not that I would know or anything. Sucks living out in the sticks! Between three dealer's they only had four O-rings.

 

[JShe8918]

KEEP US POSTED... I looked at this turbo. But due to the let down of the 3794avnt i am gonna go with the cheetah. BUt i am still really interested in the results.