LMM: LMM with 222,000 tear down rebuild

[Stingpuller]

Motor

I agree stock bolts are fine with what your doing.

 

[WolfLMM]

Are you going to detune it, Adam?

 

[DAVe3283]

I'd still do a torque plate, just use an old set of stock head bolts at stock torque with the torque plate. It might not do anything, but if it does, you've accounted for it.

It is a bit strange that the ring gaps opened up that much. That implies there is a decent amount of ring wear going on. Maybe it is just the constant high load the engine sees, but that seems a bit quick, even with your use.

 

[malibu795]

Are you going to detune it, Adam?

Definitely pullimh pilot timing back.
I really don't want to go substantially over 400 hp right now... while the trans has a jr kit and 280psi line spring in it... Also idk how much the transtar TC will take.. its just a beefed up stock unit with lower stall

I'd still do a torque plate, just use an old set of stock head bolts at stock torque with the torque plate. It might not do anything, but if it does, you've accounted for it.

It is a bit strange that the ring gaps opened up that much. That implies there is a decent amount of ring wear going on. Maybe it is just the constant high load the engine sees, but that seems a bit quick, even with your use.

How does the 41909 mahle rings compare to stock?

 

[DAVe3283]

How does the 41909 mahle rings compare to stock?

That's a good question. I never thought about that, maybe the rings are a softer material?

 

[malibu795]

Called up mahle.. guy i talked, john, wants to see them.. also said i should have seen double the mileage easy.

 

[malibu795]

That's a good question. I never thought about that, maybe the rings are a softer material?

It's rather obvious their skirt coating isn't on par with OEM.

Idk but would like to know

 

[TheBac]

That's a good question. I never thought about that, maybe the rings are a softer material?

Straight from Guy Tripp:

LB7: - Piston Rings?

What are all you guys running twins with built motors using for piston rings? Im running stock cut and coated lb7s Thanks:thumb:

www.duramaxdiesels.com

Notice what he says about heat.

I myself am not too worried about running the 41909s for my application, but in Adam's case maybe its not a good idea?

 

[malibu795]

That would make sense why the top ring ran away with wear vs second ring barely grew in ring gap


What about the 42160?

 

[Chevy1925]

That would make sense why the top ring ran away with wear vs second ring barely grew in ring gap


What about the 42160?

also explains why im not seeing lower compression or anything from mine since i bought my rings from Guy.

 

[malibu795]

So quick search
41909
https://catalog.mahle-aftermarket.c...2B1D2A8AF0EA0C3FD0ECDA5965DB3?filterId=581483
, Material UCR-Ductile Iron; LCR-Cast Iron; OCR-Stainless Steel, Facing UCR-Plasma-Moly; LCR-Chrome; OCR-Gas Nitride,
42160
https://catalog.mahle-aftermarket.com/na/modules/motorComponent/detail.xhtml?filterId=1183869
Material UCR-Stainless Steel; LCR-Cast Iron; OCR-Carbon Steel, Facing UCR-Gas Nitride; LCR-Chrome; OCR-Gas Nitride

Probably should be running the 42160s with SS UCR

 

[PureHybrid]

I'd say if the upper ring on the #42160 is stainless AND nitride hardened that would be one tough sob

 

[malibu795]

I'd say if the upper ring on the #42160 is stainless AND nitride hardened that would be one tough sob

Seams new build will be with
41260 rings
H or tri meltal clevite bearings
Ovals

 

[malibu795]

This paragraph makes my point. 2 or 3 weeks is because you rebuild them yourself. A long block can be swapped in a day if your working diligently. And a longblock doesn't cost anywhere near $10,000. More like 7000ish. And bam your back on the road.


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Followed up on this.. dealer quoted ~7100.00 for long block and 2 weeks lead time..
Do bore balance and billet rods for that..
And seams you cant buy a bare block

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Did your machine shop plateau hone the cylinders?

 

[S Phinney]

Using stainless or tool steel top ring would be what you should run in a high heat situation. Cast rings will not last in that environment. That is all I run. End gap being a little looser will not hurt anything either. Plateau honing is a very good idea as well. Mine are always plateau honed. You want and need a block that is prepped right and use the right rings. You will then stop having this issue.

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[malibu795]

Idk if fleece did or not... Definitely make sure it happens with next block

 

[malibu795]

Passenger side
all glow plugs in while doing the test
8 pulses/compression cycles each cylinder.

1: 360
3: 350
5: 300
7: 310
Getting ready to do driver side.. though 6 pack says ill see similar readings..

Forgot to post ring gaps
Took a piston and shoved them down until top of wrist pin was flush with deck

Old
1st .023"
2nd .024

New rings
1st .018
2nd .024

Both ring sets where mahle #41909

Id Say the .023" gap on the top ring allowed the carbon/gum up of the secondary causeing it to stick and increase blow by

Haha those are way tighter gaps than mine. I'm around .030 lol .009- .010 ptw

So do you think was causing the lack of power? I really don't think the ring gap is

Yes i think the ring gaps and carboned up LCR was 90% of my issue
Current compression test with new rings..
1 450psi
3 450 psi
5 440psi
7 440psi
Driver side mirrors passenger side and cylinders 5-8 take longer to stop building psi... My gues is due to intake manifold design and additional length it has to travel from the y bridge

 

[malibu795]

Shes alive again
https://youtu.be/wIwdCa9LNcU

 

[TheBac]

Just reringed it, Adam?

Thanks for the info on the 42160 ringset, BTW.