If the walls look good a new cross hatch can be done and only gain a half a thousandth if the shop has the right tools and know what they are doing. .
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
LMM: LMM with 222,000 tear down rebuild
- Thread starter malibu795
- Start date
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Only 3 shops close to me that could do that.. all are week out lead tines. And 2.5 hours one way...
D&J performance in Cambridge ohio
Fleece
And guys Danville uses
So are you honing it yourself?
Try Galen at the Performance Shop in Newark. He might be too busy but it's worth a shot, does good work. Tell him Moose sent you
And fwiw I never bother buying a low reading bore gauge anyway, they are too inaccurate for my taste. They can give you a good quick look at how a cylinder is worn, but I prefer snap gauges.
Try Galen at the Performance Shop in Newark. He might be too busy but it's worth a shot, does good work. Tell him Moose sent you
And fwiw I never bother buying a low reading bore gauge anyway, they are too inaccurate for my taste. They can give you a good quick look at how a cylinder is worn, but I prefer snap gauges.
I know if i dont hone it it will take longer to seat.. i also dont have anything that will go through thw induction hardened top part
I don't if he could knock it out quickly as in same/next day.
i currently got ~5 weeks till labor day, And 17 weeks till Thanksgiving
Stuff starts slowing down after Thanksgiving......
Your motor
I would bead hone it not worry about coating the pistons and roll! Under the heat you run you want a loose on the ptw clearance.
I would bead hone it not worry about coating the pistons and roll! Under the heat you run you want a loose on the ptw clearance.
Grove on camshaft is 5*2.5mm grove, on the cam gear is 5*5mm was given a 5*5*16mm key. Cut in 1/2 file to fit..Problem fixed
And here I thought Hamilton knew what they were doing. Did they give you a key or someone else?
Hamilton gave me 2 5mm holes for OEM press fit pins fleece cut a 5mm keyway and put a 5*5*16mm key in it.
Honestly idk until little bit ago.. had cam installed with gear off.. so i put the key in the gear to slide it on.. and found out
The LMM cam i had keyed is exactly same thing 5*7mm keyway with a 5*5mm key fleece did that one as well
Forgot to post ring gaps
Took a piston and shoved them down until top of wrist pin was flush with deck
Old
1st .023"
2nd .024
New rings
1st .018
2nd .024
Both ring sets where mahle #41909
Id Say the .023" gap on the top ring allowed the carbon/gum up of the secondary causeing it to stick and increase blow by
Took a piston and shoved them down until top of wrist pin was flush with deck
Old
1st .023"
2nd .024
New rings
1st .018
2nd .024
Both ring sets where mahle #41909
Id Say the .023" gap on the top ring allowed the carbon/gum up of the secondary causeing it to stick and increase blow by
With .023 to and .024 bottem and how much carbon/gummed up the secondary was.. that could easily keep the secondary from tracking along the wall and naturally increase blow by
Id saw it definitely contributed to los of power and blow bye
Really
How do you figure? He has tried new with bad results. I will say it again, I have NEVER seen a loose motor be a problem. Tight and you WILL have problems. His deal is much like a marine motor. Heat for a very long time. He needs to figure out his ring seal is the only thing I would worry about. That top ring gap he had would be the cause of the problem. I would be scared to run it that tight with the heat he makes. That's just me.
How do you figure? He has tried new with bad results. I will say it again, I have NEVER seen a loose motor be a problem. Tight and you WILL have problems. His deal is much like a marine motor. Heat for a very long time. He needs to figure out his ring seal is the only thing I would worry about. That top ring gap he had would be the cause of the problem. I would be scared to run it that tight with the heat he makes. That's just me.
Jeff, I'm a little confused with what your saying? Are you saying you wouldn't run his ring end gap that tight with the heat he's making? Or the ptw clearance that tight? I'm pretty sure I'm following you but I want to make sure.
John, what do you think the cause of Adam's failure was? Maybe failure is the wrong word... His "issue" I guess would be a better description.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
John, what do you think the cause of Adam's failure was? Maybe failure is the wrong word... His "issue" I guess would be a better description.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Issues i had.
Loss of HP as indicated by dyno and drop in grade speed
Loss of MPG as i dropped ~2mpg
300-360psi range with a compression test.
Substantial increase in blow bye
What did i find.
70k increased ring gap from .017 to .023
Gummed/carboned up second ring making to difficult to move
Loss of HP as indicated by dyno and drop in grade speed
Loss of MPG as i dropped ~2mpg
300-360psi range with a compression test.
Substantial increase in blow bye
What did i find.
70k increased ring gap from .017 to .023
Gummed/carboned up second ring making to difficult to move
Motor
I personally would run (start) around .024 or so and run the pistons on the loose side. You would have to have some major piston rock to effect ring seal that bad. Adam I don't remember but do you run head studs? I have seen them affect ring seal when you don't use a TQ to hone the block after studs are installed. The top of the bore will move were the studs/holes are in the bore.
I personally would run (start) around .024 or so and run the pistons on the loose side. You would have to have some major piston rock to effect ring seal that bad. Adam I don't remember but do you run head studs? I have seen them affect ring seal when you don't use a TQ to hone the block after studs are installed. The top of the bore will move were the studs/holes are in the bore.
Since ivr yet to lift heads with the LML Head bolts and dont intend to run more than stock fuel, (still have a stock transmission) i haven't done anything with/for head studs
When fleece did the block, specifically ask not to TQ plate hone as i have no intention of running studs, and dont think head bolts could bring the walls back into a circle
Might head stud the block i build this winter... Cross that bridge when i get there
When fleece did the block, specifically ask not to TQ plate hone as i have no intention of running studs, and dont think head bolts could bring the walls back into a circle
Might head stud the block i build this winter... Cross that bridge when i get there