LMM: LMM with 222,000 tear down rebuild

[malibu795]

So your saying it's not totally fubared

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Doesn't seam to be..fluids came out bright red as if I was pouring out of a fresh jug.. Check flexplate its still good.. No visible cracks.. Idk what to make of the snapped tcase studs... All transmission bell housing bolts where tight.. TC bolts where tight... Idk what that black plastic piece is?
Bout ready to stuff it back in..

 

[minerigger]

Could it be the clip area off the internal trans harness where thise 2 small spring loaded clips hold in the 2 solenoids? That's only thing I could think that's black plastic.

Ever though of running a tcase brace incase something does happen

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[malibu795]

Could it be the clip area off the internal trans harness where thise 2 small spring loaded clips hold in the 2 solenoids? That's only thing I could think that's black plastic.

Ever though of running a tcase brace incase something does happen

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Could be.... Seams to be harness style plastic...
Course i dont have new harness to compare


As for the tcase brace... Idk.. I know it was designed due to the tcase wanting to roll up in 4x4. With enough HP/traction not would rip the tailshaft apart.. I'm hardly ever in 4x4 even more so since I don't have matching gears right now...

 

[minerigger]

Oh lol. Is the pan back on the trans already? If you don't have fluid in it and you got time ya might look. At least you'd know

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[malibu795]

Yeah Trans is back in the truck

 

[malibu795]

Reading the OEM manual 1 to find out how much I should initially dump in... 7.4qts... Sounds like a pan dump.. Should get me on the dipstick though..
2 find out cold temp check and hot temp check..
Cold is 80-90°F
Hot is 160-200°F...

Umm... Only time i see 160°F and above is 90° days in stop in go traffic... :rofl:
Maybe she'll warm up now that she's gone from stock 225? to 290psi

 

[Chevy1925]

With those studs broke, id really look at ujoints and axle wrap.

 

[LBZ]

With those studs broke, id really look at ujoints and axle wrap.

I agree. Low gears and a heavy load your falling into sled puller re-enforcement territory. Even at stock hp.

 

[malibu795]

I 4 u joints 2 in the front and 2 in the rear.. The front shaft is not in the truck... Right now..
I can't get any play out of them.. And rear u joint is new when I did the gear swap....
That/those vibrations could have loosened the bolts.. Hell I ran it for ~5000 miles trying to find it. ..
Down to driveshaft, TC bolts, starter, exhaust and put fluids in...
Reset taps as well

As for axle wrap... Truck squats till its about 2.5-3" off the bump stop... All 3 stages of the springs are fully in play that be the main 5 plus overload and the 4 on top
I'd be impressed if the loose ass stock TC was able to wrap ~9,000lbs worth of springs on a part throttle acceleration

 

[LBZ]

Mount a go pro underneath to see for sure but with those gears it wouldn't surprise me if it does.

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[malibu795]

Just so we are all on the same page on what springs are on the back of my truck

 

[malibu795]

Mount a go pro underneath to see for sure but with those gears it wouldn't surprise me if it does.

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One thing at a time dammit.. :rofl:

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Those aren't stock... Haha:spit:

 

[malibu795]

Those aren't stock... Haha:spit:

Stock for an 08 3500HD cab n chassis
This is what happened to stock to the truck.. Plus nice "W" in the spring on a profile shot

 

[bigmackmiller]

Don't run any bags?

 

[malibu795]

Don't run any bags?

No bags.. Only way I'll put bags on is if/when I do full 3 or 4 link air ride.. I'm not fond of air of spring setups in what I do

 

[Chevy1925]

Tight joints don't mean good joints. You need to rock them around feeling for roughness or stiff spots (shaft out of truck). If you didn't replace that joint with something other than actual spicer or ones from the dealer, I don't trust them. I've watched guys blow up Napa, autozone, oreillys shit (even the "highest grade" they offer).

 

[IOWA LLY]

Why don't you like air bag helpers with springs Adam?

 

[IOWA LLY]

Tight joints don't mean good joints. You need to rock them around feeling for roughness or stiff spots (shaft out of truck). If you didn't replace that joint with something other than actual spicer or ones from the dealer, I don't trust them. I've watched guys blow up Napa, autozone, oreillys shit (even the "highest grade" they offer).

This X1000 ^^^^^^^

 

[malibu795]

Tight joints don't mean good joints. You need to rock them around feeling for roughness or stiff spots (shaft out of truck). If you didn't replace that joint with something other than actual spicer or ones from the dealer, I don't trust them. I've watched guys blow up Napa, autozone, oreillys shit (even the "highest grade" they offer).

Front is still OEM smooth.. Rear is a greasable Spicer

Why don't you like air bag helpers with springs Adam?

1 I've managed to find the "sweet spot" on these springs and usually able to hit it 75-80% of the time. rest of the time is just the way the load is by dimension whether you either have too much or not enough pin weight
2. Only time I'd really be using them, is when I'm dam near maxed out with 6500-7000lb on the GN ball.. Which is 20% of the time..
3. By the time I put compressor, tank, ride height valve, etc I might as well go full out..
Truck runs really well with top of the frame at 30-31" from the ground. Which is the sweet spot on my Truck..
. Seams there is a solid state gyro that ecm sense truck is squaring there for loaded and allows for more rear brake bias..
Heaven forbid we have a truck with brake bias comparable to a semi.. 100% rear with front coming in at about 50% applied pressure