I've had lots of help and I know a few good boat builders here,
Until I went out on a limb with the duramax, that threw em a major curve but I think it's going to work
LML Marine swap
- Thread starter Hawk 40
- Start date
I've had lots of help and I know a few good boat builders here,
Until I went out on a limb with the duramax, that threw em a major curve but I think it's going to work
Haha... I'm sure they have gotten a few of those in their time. I know I have. Some people just like to be diffrent, and I one of them so I understand where your coming from. If it was easy everybody would do it...
Hollow glass stringers were pulled from a 30 by 3.5' mold and capped with 2 layers of carbon fiber.
The original plan was to pour them with 4 # foam before the deck went on but the grid structure turned out so solid we cut small drain holes at the rear bulkhead and left them hollow. The ribs and bulkheads are poured solid with 4# foam and all the hatches are insulated well. The deck was super ridged by itself and now with all the void areas filled it's like a tank. Original hull lamination was grinded down smooth and re laminated with 1.5oz mat w/6" carbon fiber tapes in the chine,strakes, and keel then covered the entire bottom w/24oz of Kevlar/Glass and another 1.5 oz mat. Top cap was pulled from a mold made for a 38 scarab conversion so it had to be cut, stretched and widened.
The boat now weighs 6250#'s dry with the console,bolsters,livewell,and some rigging. Original boat weighted 10500 # with power so I'm trying to get back in the water with diesels and not go over the original weight.
Wanted to move the turbo back 10" to make room for a sheet metal intake with intercooler on top but backing off after hearing about issues with condensation draining thru the runners into heads. Bummer, that is the cleanest configuration I can think of and also makes the d max look like a hot rod instead of a blob. Still need to relocate turbo back some to get some space between turbo intake and y bridge , both are severely pinched in stock form.
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Ya know, you could always design a remote-mount setup to solve that turbo issue. 
You could then run a different turbo than the stocker, which would probably help you with y our performance goals. Im thinking that member dracing50 had a remote setup for sale a while back that was pretty slick.
You could then run a different turbo than the stocker, which would probably help you with y our performance goals. Im thinking that member dracing50 had a remote setup for sale a while back that was pretty slick.Going to keep to turbos up top and locate the intercoolers down on the stringer benches, I really want to keep the engines as near stock as possible other than the marinization work. I need a reliable platform first, then build for performance if needed.
I have an old school 30' race boat hull that I'm itching to build an all out monster HP d max for in a year or two, this boat would not be run far offshore so breaking it wouldn't be nearly the hassle of breaking something 150 mi out
Happy Easter All
I have an old school 30' race boat hull that I'm itching to build an all out monster HP d max for in a year or two, this boat would not be run far offshore so breaking it wouldn't be nearly the hassle of breaking something 150 mi out
Happy Easter All
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Guy sells a jumper harness for the three injectors that the alternate fire cam changes firing order for. Just buy them from him and then anyone can tune your engine for you without having to do anything different.
It is possible to change the firing order in the tune but only one or two guys are currently doing this so it's easier to just re-pin the harness plugs or easier yet buy the jumpers.
If it's a lb7 y bridge, could I use one on myLML's by using the intakes also.
I don't know how interchangeable these are.
10-4
The heads are in route to him now for machine work, I'll have to decide on the cams pretty soon. Got the right flywheels and adapter plates coming as well as LBZ harnesses/ECM's.
Need to clean up the malfunction junction where the turbo intake clashes with the charged air intake
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I'm scared to put a pencil to it, I just do what I can when I can.
I do know a new 40 something Nor Tech with diesels isn't build any better fundamentally ( it does have a better finish inside )but costs over 400 if you could even get this engine/drive. I'll probably wind up around 150-170 when it hits the water, which will still be one of the least expense tournament boats around these parts.