According to the images that we're posted of the wheels earlier. Which are facing backwards, as that side with the round dimple would be exposed to the engine. The missing tooth should be on the other side. I brought them both in side by side.
LLY Ficm
- Thread starter mplecha
- Start date
Yes that looks better. You can see the bolt positions in my photo and video above. Will take a couple more, but problem is we are comparing apples to oranges relating to using those bolts as ref..
So in your last pic the tooth removed is the last not the first ?
On my LMM I can see the bolts holding the reluctor wheel onto the crank gear and tooth relation. So one can calculate the position of the crank keyway based off pictures. But when the pictures are of flat pieces, you are 50/50 which side your actually working with. The only thing that matches up between the LLY to LBZ model years, is the little hole above the crankshaft keyway..
Ill take a couple clearer.
On my LMM I can see the bolts holding the reluctor wheel onto the crank gear and tooth relation. So one can calculate the position of the crank keyway based off pictures. But when the pictures are of flat pieces, you are 50/50 which side your actually working with. The only thing that matches up between the LLY to LBZ model years, is the little hole above the crankshaft keyway..
Ill take a couple clearer.
Thats a 5mm alignment hole used to locate the wheel to the gear when its bolted up. At least I think it was 5mm, Either way it's just an alignment hole that happens to be centered.
I think you have it right in this one..
26th tooth on both engine models. Sound correct?
Have a fairly good idea now of where our sensors set in the front cover. Am sure we can get it perfect with a bit more measuring, but here is my best guesstimate based on tooth positions and sensor angles. As most of you know, ya can't swap the crank cam sensors. Well you actually can, they will bolt up fine, but it will not run. Been there done that got the T shirt..
However few actual know the reason why, is simple polarization of the pickup. You could probably spin them around 90deg, stick some duct tape on em, and it would run to get ya home.. But all you need to remember is the wheel teeth run down or inline with the pins. If you take a look the two sensors in the front cover above, you will quickly see the alignment. And for the cam, its sightly turned inward, because it sets below the centerline of our camshaft. So the edges on that cam ring, pass squarely at 90deg angle to our pickup pins.
Megasquirt page had a decent example of this principle, but that's for a later date. Have more interesting discoveries.. Just wanted to this example first.
However few actual know the reason why, is simple polarization of the pickup. You could probably spin them around 90deg, stick some duct tape on em, and it would run to get ya home.. But all you need to remember is the wheel teeth run down or inline with the pins. If you take a look the two sensors in the front cover above, you will quickly see the alignment. And for the cam, its sightly turned inward, because it sets below the centerline of our camshaft. So the edges on that cam ring, pass squarely at 90deg angle to our pickup pins.
Megasquirt page had a decent example of this principle, but that's for a later date. Have more interesting discoveries.. Just wanted to this example first.
Spent a few hours cleaning up the fuse block and wiring for the LB7. Wanted to tripple check all the wiring with this Kodiak ECM before swapping it for a known good unit. If it rolls smoke first connection, we'll know it wasn't me... Or at least I'll lead with that.. LOL.
I fused all the hots. Got PCM main relay working with a single ignition wire style setup And left the PCM in charge of the other relays as factory. Well I did remove the PTO wires, since we don't have a transmission.. But besides that, feel it's right. I also found the correct Speed Signal Output wire from ECM to FICM. And guess what, it outputs a Crank signal when you feed the ECM a Crank / Cam signal... Amazing what you can discover by triple checking the pinout.
So scope captured our Crank In from the Emulator, and Crank Out to FICM. Think I found our first processor delay. In pic below, at fist glance the two crank signals look identical. But once you zoom in, you can see the teeth are off slightly. As in about 50us. So I decided to see if this changes over the RPM range. Lucky for us, it does not.. Engineers were able to maintain the same processing offset of 50us from 100Rpm to 8000Rpm. It was a bit glittchy up there, but I grabbed a screenshot of it spinning 7788R according to the EFIlive pid.
At 8k RPM, one crank tooth width is 63us..
I fused all the hots. Got PCM main relay working with a single ignition wire style setup And left the PCM in charge of the other relays as factory. Well I did remove the PTO wires, since we don't have a transmission.. But besides that, feel it's right. I also found the correct Speed Signal Output wire from ECM to FICM. And guess what, it outputs a Crank signal when you feed the ECM a Crank / Cam signal... Amazing what you can discover by triple checking the pinout.
So scope captured our Crank In from the Emulator, and Crank Out to FICM. Think I found our first processor delay. In pic below, at fist glance the two crank signals look identical. But once you zoom in, you can see the teeth are off slightly. As in about 50us. So I decided to see if this changes over the RPM range. Lucky for us, it does not.. Engineers were able to maintain the same processing offset of 50us from 100Rpm to 8000Rpm. It was a bit glittchy up there, but I grabbed a screenshot of it spinning 7788R according to the EFIlive pid.
At 8k RPM, one crank tooth width is 63us..
Nothing a diode won't fix..Looks like your Diesel is starting to gel up...
I wondered if anyone would cath that. Here is the new style baro, map, and maf mod. I'd almost forgot these used an analog MAF back then..
Yeah, You don't want the fuel to gel just sitting on the bench....
Like I said before I am not a tuner, Does the fuel temp have any effect on the tables it uses for timing and fueling on these?
Like I said before I am not a tuner, Does the fuel temp have any effect on the tables it uses for timing and fueling on these?
Yes. From what I've seen on all generations of the Duramax, there is timing compensation tables for fuel temp. I think, without looking it up, there is also fuel limiting and pressure limiting too
On the lbz lmm, it only adjusts commanded fuel pressure. But just downward if temp gets too hi.
I typically use that sensor in the Oil Cooling system to monitor oil temp on canbus. And learned lowering the fuel pressure using that table, doesn't achieve what ya think. No warning light because it's just commanding lower press, and moves everything up in your injector PW tables..
So we'll stick a nice resistor in that line and make it a happy camper around 100F. Maybe that's the fuel heater relay I keep hearing click???
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
I typically use that sensor in the Oil Cooling system to monitor oil temp on canbus. And learned lowering the fuel pressure using that table, doesn't achieve what ya think. No warning light because it's just commanding lower press, and moves everything up in your injector PW tables..
So we'll stick a nice resistor in that line and make it a happy camper around 100F. Maybe that's the fuel heater relay I keep hearing click???
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
I don't know BUT I do have an engine here I can look at. I'll pull the head off and verify (no fasteners in it already, stole the studs. Just gotta take the manifold/up-pipe loose to pull the head).