LLY Ficm

1FastBrick

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Do you have another? Just see if it's spring loaded when the bolt holes line up?
I do not... and I won't be takeing the LLY apart to find out...

If I recall there was a little slop in the holes.

I can check the other yards and see if there is another one. The cheapest one on EBay is around 75 shipped...
 

Cougar281

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I do not... and I won't be takeing the LLY apart to find out...

If I recall there was a little slop in the holes.

I can check the other yards and see if there is another one. The cheapest one on EBay is around 75 shipped...

There isn't on my old LLY pedal. The sensor just drops right on the blade protruding from the pedal assembly and there's a locating 'nub' on the sensor that drops into a hole on the pedal frame. The sensor is spring loaded internally and is all the way at zero when removed, with no tension added when installed on the pedal frame.
 

1FastBrick

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There isn't on my old LLY pedal. The sensor just drops right on the blade protruding from the pedal assembly and there's a locating 'nub' on the sensor that drops into a hole on the pedal frame. The sensor is spring loaded internally and is all the way at zero when removed, with no tension added when installed on the pedal frame.
Good to know. Has been a while since I took it apart.
 

kidturbo

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Well, I guess you did find the real reason a person needs the pedal assembly when doing an LB7/LLY to LBZ swap.....so theres that.
I'd totally forgotten how old school these 3 APP signal pedal assemblies actually were. The OG PPE boat actually had a LLY truck pedal mounted to the transom with a 33C control cable connected where your foot would normally go. The travel was so short on old single lever dash throttle control, ya couldn't shift F-N-R without blipping the throttle. Making docking or getting on the trailer a real pain. Back then I welded a 6" extension bar onto the foot pedal end, to decrease the leverage ratio, and add more travel on the far end of the cable.. Worked good on the old LLY.

Today, I only use these super slick non-spring return billet hand throttles, with [twin signal] programmable APPS built in. Also available in billet foot pedals, popular in air boats, or even cable adapter unit that works great with the old school controls. However, none of this new stuff works with those old school 3 signal APPS units.. But options for LS swaps and such have really progressed.

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kidturbo

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While not as slick as billet sticks, my 2amp MacGyver hack got us a valid stopping position.

@1FastBrick if you would like to saw that pedal assembly off and stick the mounting plate side in box to me, it might be helpful..

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Cougar281

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Yup now a 6wire 2 signal, like all other GM units. Connector might be diff, but a corvette unit will link right up.

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Maybe a Corvette pedal/apps, but I can tell you an 06/07 GMT800 pedal did not work with my LBZ. Same connector, but it was apparently different internally. If I ever find it, I'll plug it up and see exactly what it did and what codes were set.
 
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1FastBrick

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Maybe a Corvette pedal/apps, but I can tell you an 06/07 GMT800 pedal did not work with my LBZ. Same connector, but it was apparently different internally. If I ever find it, I'll plug it up and see exactly what it did and what codes were set.
Found it!!! Here is the gas version that looks like the LBZ version.

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kidturbo

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My go to stick for bench testing E38-E92 and LBZ-LML has been this little 6 wire Camaro piece. I glued the lid from a Hickory Farms mustard jar to it as a thumb dial, and it's slick as you get for quick throttle response.

Now if I could only find a buddy to let me test it in his vehicle. While he drives of course. .

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kidturbo

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Maybe a Corvette pedal/apps, but I can tell you an 06/07 GMT800 pedal did not work with my LBZ. Same connector, but it was apparently different internally. If I ever find it, I'll plug it up and see exactly what it did and what codes were set.
One nice thing about today's tech, you can easily pull up the pids to map the curves on about any ECU. And if your scale is off, you can most likely adjust it in the tune. So if you find an APPS that fits your build, you can likely adjust around it. That's how I stumbled onto the relationship among a majority of GM hardware.

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kidturbo

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Got the old girl running. Took a bit to bleed the fuel system, but once I get the throttle stop sorted, it Fired right up. Literally. Amazed, I hooked up the scope and captured some data below.

As I thought, have some firing order issues going on relating to conflicts found in the pinout between ECM and FICM Control wire diagrams. Have 3 different documents, listing different or duplicate control #x wire positions between ECM and FICM. Now that I've split up the harness, it's a bit of a pain to sort it out again. So if anyone could please post up a verified connector to connector diagram, it might be helpful I believe. BUT IT RUNS !!! :oops:

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