Just checked my receipts. It was $100 to have it extrude honed. As for the benefit, I haven't put it on yet. The motor is at So Cal Diesel right now. :thumb:
LB7: IHI Port/Polish
- Thread starter yellowchevy
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Just checked my receipts. It was $100 to have it extrude honed. As for the benefit, I haven't put it on yet. The motor is at So Cal Diesel right now. :thumb:
I haven't tried but I've read more than one person that was able to remove it while still in the pickup.
The hardest bolt you'll have is the very bottom one. The ones on the side's shouldn't be too bad. The bottom one would be easier to get if you used one of those half moon wrenches - Their 12mm bolts
http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/half_moon_reversible/
I don't know if the Y-bridge posses a problem so that would be another thing to look at.
Yellowchevy
Where did you get it honed at?
I bet you're excited to get it running
. Let me know if the honing made a difference.Yellowchevy
02dirtymax - Using the wire wheel on the outside worked really good, made it shine. I need to get in the corner better with a die grinder and of coarse hand sanding. :thumb:
I got the wheel off last night after work with some help.
I don't think I'll be able to use the inducer wheel anymore, haha.
Damn thing was really on there. I tried holding it with my hands while the other guy turned the wrench but I wasn't able to so we wrapped the wheel with a thick glove and used channel locks but one of the fin's didn't make it. Being that happened I took the channel locks, help it up in the air while one of the guys tapped the shaft with a hander. That didn't work so we took it out to the maintenance shop, heated the wheel up some with a torch and pried it off while the one guy turned the shaft.
Now I need to get a T-10 bit to remove the 4 bolts to continue removing it.
I'm definitely learning alot about turbo's being I've never taken one of these apart before. :roflmao:
Thanks for everybody's input, I need it. :roflmao:
Yellowchevy
I got the wheel off last night after work with some help.
I don't think I'll be able to use the inducer wheel anymore, haha.
Damn thing was really on there. I tried holding it with my hands while the other guy turned the wrench but I wasn't able to so we wrapped the wheel with a thick glove and used channel locks but one of the fin's didn't make it. Being that happened I took the channel locks, help it up in the air while one of the guys tapped the shaft with a hander. That didn't work so we took it out to the maintenance shop, heated the wheel up some with a torch and pried it off while the one guy turned the shaft.
Now I need to get a T-10 bit to remove the 4 bolts to continue removing it.
I'm definitely learning alot about turbo's being I've never taken one of these apart before. :roflmao:
Thanks for everybody's input, I need it. :roflmao:
Yellowchevy
Attachments
You beat me to it.
I'm hoping to do some searching tomorrow to see what's out there.
I wanted to get the turbo apart so I know what I'm looking at as well.
Yellowchevy
I'm hoping to do some searching tomorrow to see what's out there.
I wanted to get the turbo apart so I know what I'm looking at as well.
Yellowchevy
Where did you get it honed at?
I bet you're excited to get it running
Yellowchevy
I got it honed at Extrude Hone in Paramount, Ca. There is no way I will be able to tell you if the Extrude Hone made a difference by itself. I've made too many changes all at once. I'm going from a stock motor with an Edge programmer to a So Cal built and balanced motor with rods, pistons, cam, ported heads, billet wheel, RDL headers, Air Dog lift pump, Wicked stg 3 CP3, Exegry sticks, and EFI Live. Oh, and some a few Extrude Honed bits also. Just too many changes to single out any one of them.
But the honing definately cleaned things up inside the cover.
I did consider it. Then I found out that they don't make a Batmowheel for the GT4094VA. Danville sells a billet wheel but not a Batmowheel. So I got a billett wheel. I had it put on by a turbo shop that also checked it for balance. Turns out it's balanced pretty good right out of the box. Definately within Garretts tolerances.
I got it honed at Extrude Hone in Paramount, Ca. There is no way I will be able to tell you if the Extrude Hone made a difference by itself. I've made too many changes all at once. I'm going from a stock motor with an Edge programmer to a So Cal built and balanced motor with rods, pistons, cam, ported heads, billet wheel, RDL headers, Air Dog lift pump, Wicked stg 3 CP3, Exegry sticks, and EFI Live. Oh, and some a few Extrude Honed bits also. Just too many changes to single out any one of them.
But the honing definately cleaned things up inside the cover.
Never mind then:roflmao:, you're going all out. :thumb:
Well it sounds like you're not holding anything back in the build. Good luck and I'm sure it's be nice.
Yellowchevy
I did consider it. Then I found out that they don't make a Batmowheel for the GT4094VA. Danville sells a billet wheel but not a Batmowheel. So I got a billett wheel. I had it put on by a turbo shop that also checked it for balance. Turns out it's balanced pretty good right out of the box. Definately within Garretts tolerances.
Good deal! Yeah I hear Mark does top notch work
shweet, curious to see what kinda gains you see
Maybe this will help you a little. I did a little bit of tinkering with mine.
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/turbos-stock-aftermarket/106922-super-stocker-turbo.html
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/turbos-stock-aftermarket/106922-super-stocker-turbo.html
Did you polish the inside of the inlet and outlet cover?(not sure is that's the right term )
I disassembled mine some more this after noon. I need to split the center casing where the band clamp is.
I'm need to complete the disassembly and find a rebuild kit before I start porting and polishing it.
Thanks for the link Odyssey25013, I looked through the first half of your thread lastnight.
Yellowchevy
)I disassembled mine some more this after noon. I need to split the center casing where the band clamp is.
I'm need to complete the disassembly and find a rebuild kit before I start porting and polishing it.
Thanks for the link Odyssey25013, I looked through the first half of your thread lastnight.
Yellowchevy
Finally got it all torn apart tonight. Everything looked pretty good, except the shaft looks stained in the middle of the two bearings. Would this be considered coking being it looks to be from oil?
The shaft has some markings on it from where the inducer wheel was. Being when we rotated the shaft to break it free the wheel just rotated causing the shaft to get ruffed up. I should be able to clean it up I'm hoping.
All and all I'm satisfied as to how it looks, but then again I've never had one apart before, haha :rofl:
Very interesting to have one of these torn apart.
I've done some looking for a place to get bearings from but haven't been able to research alot yet. Before taking it apart everything looked good, minimal in/out and up/down play. After disassembly the bears looked really good, no noticeable wear. Maybe I don't need to put new bearings in it but being I've got it this torn apart I'm sure it's a good idea.
I attached pictures for those interested.
Yellowchevy
The shaft has some markings on it from where the inducer wheel was. Being when we rotated the shaft to break it free the wheel just rotated causing the shaft to get ruffed up. I should be able to clean it up I'm hoping.
All and all I'm satisfied as to how it looks, but then again I've never had one apart before, haha :rofl:
Very interesting to have one of these torn apart.
I've done some looking for a place to get bearings from but haven't been able to research alot yet. Before taking it apart everything looked good, minimal in/out and up/down play. After disassembly the bears looked really good, no noticeable wear. Maybe I don't need to put new bearings in it but being I've got it this torn apart I'm sure it's a good idea.
I attached pictures for those interested.
Yellowchevy
Attachments
Is it in and running?:joker: We are waiting
There he is, I deserve this being I was all over you when you were install your 366!!
The wife and I are going to Vancouver BC this weekend so I won't have a chance to mess with it till next weekend.
Being I have it apart maybe I can put an up grated exhaust wheel in it, but I don't know if that's a good idea.
Yellowchevy
Don't take an abrasive to the turbine shaft. It will lead to bad news stuff. You can get a Batmo wheel from Scott at SDP and bearings from G-POP Shop. OTher than that you can clean it up and try porting is. As for polishing the inside of the compressor housing (the tunnel), I did not, but right around the compressor I did (where the wheel sits).
This might help as well
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/t...et/49679-ported-turbine-housing-vs-stock.html
This might help as well
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/t...et/49679-ported-turbine-housing-vs-stock.html
I was first going to use brake parts cleaner and then very fine steel wool.
Thanks alot for the link, I don't know how I missed that. I did alot of searching in all the forums online.
Yellowchevy
