Got my trans built but shifts extremely hard
- Thread starter justindavis38
- Start date
Alright I have everything in the valve body in the order of all instructions and manuals so it's not the trim valves
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big damge on a 3/4 shift.
Assuming everything is in place and you didn't screw something up; LLY's can take a few days to straighten up. Why are you not teaching it on a low tune? If you get on it while this is happening you will do
The 3/4 shift is smooth like stock it's the smoothest one but I kinda thought an 80hp tune was low and I've always heard ride around in your big tune so the trans will adjust to that power and not stock power my big tune right now is 100hp but I've done several accelerations through all of the gears to let the shifting adjust before I got into it and again it shifts smoother when I'm in it then when I drive normal
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I broke mine in on my 60 horse stock trans tune, drove it a week like an old man, got built trans tunes, put it on the 150 tune and did a few stop and go runs through all the gears until I ran it wfo, beat the **** out of it every since.
I broke my LLY in on the 120 tune, it would shift hard one time and slip the next for about 150 miles, then I went on a drunken rampage and it was right and tight.
My LLY would bark the tires on the 1-2 shift at 3/4 throttle, it was an aggressive set up, I actually liked it over the LMM, it's smooth and crisp but doesn't like the rough housing like the LLY did.
I broke my LLY in on the 120 tune, it would shift hard one time and slip the next for about 150 miles, then I went on a drunken rampage and it was right and tight.
My LLY would bark the tires on the 1-2 shift at 3/4 throttle, it was an aggressive set up, I actually liked it over the LMM, it's smooth and crisp but doesn't like the rough housing like the LLY did.
Run the **** out of it 24/7. I didn't care, that truck was wfo at all times, and it weighed 8700 lbs. I'm a little easier on the LMM but I have priorities now I guess.
Cool so drive it like I haven't done anything to it and it should be good? I drove it's pretty easy all day today
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But right now it doesn't really matter anyway I came out from eating dinner started the truck and the check engine light came on p2563 I have hardly any turbo now lol
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If you don't care to fix shit when it breaks, I'd stand on it. If not, then I'd be double checking your clutch clearances are correct and give it another couple hundred miles to learn and let everything seat in.
My sensor went out on mine, it'll limit your rail pressure to 10k so it doesn't over boost. You can try and clean it, worked on mine for a couple days, luckily I had a spare.
I don't want to have to fix it but if I'm pulling it back out to check clearances is no different then pulling it back out from breaking something lol ima try to clean the turbo solenoid tomorrow hopefully that helps and keep driving it like usual maybe it get better after a few days
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No I checked all my clearances 3 times because my c3 and c4 came with wrong steels I was on the phone with suncoast when I checked all of the clearances it's starting to smooth out some now but 1-2 is still a little rough for my liking but I feel like if I put some traction bars on it that it may help me out a good bit
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They were all around .072 I think the c4 clutch pack was .068 which was under suncoast recommended .070-.085 but factory calls for .040-.060 so .068 should have been close enough according to who I talked to at suncoast even if it's a couple thousands out of spec it would be fine still. I didn't do the c5 clutch pack so 1st wouldn't have been changed
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So I'm starting to think it's in the vb the shifts are getting smother 1-2 is better but still pretty rough depending on what rpm your at when it shifts so I got on it today in Stock tune so hardly any hp and it ran great chirped every gear through 5th did it again 2nd gear slipped and it wouldn't shift out of 2nd threw a code p0700 cleared it went back to the shop to see if I could do it again ran great then it did it again on 3rd this time not 2nd and I've got it to not shift out of 1st once without having to completely let off and let it cost a minute but then after that it would run fine through all the gears and shift firm and fast no slippage at all so I have to believe it's in the vb just not sure what to look for yet maybe a sticking solenoid? I'm gonna try to run the v2 on it to monitor line pressure and see what it's doing as it shifts normal and as I'm on it.
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I used to think that way. As Mike once told me long ago, "Chirping tires on a shift with an Allison is bad. It indicates a tie-up or close to it. You want clean, crisp shifts, not sharp ones."
So you've done something very wrong in your build.
You do realize a P0700 is just a marker for other TCM codes, right? Why in the world did you clear it without reading all the codes first? Thats the first step toward accurately diagnosing what you've done wrong. Otherwise you're just guessing and nobody can help with that, not even Mike or Evan.
So you've done something very wrong in your build.
You do realize a P0700 is just a marker for other TCM codes, right? Why in the world did you clear it without reading all the codes first? Thats the first step toward accurately diagnosing what you've done wrong. Otherwise you're just guessing and nobody can help with that, not even Mike or Evan.
It wouldn't show any other codes just the p0700 both times and I had 3 different scanners on it and I'm just not sure where it is at in the trans though because I know all my clearances are right and since it'll slip different gears none twice then it has to be in the apply pressures so it must be in the vb somewhere correct?
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