Duramax in a Half Shell

Oct 16, 2008
948
12
18
Idaho
could you not custom make some mounts to have it sit higher to clear the r+p then Id just clearance the crossmember

This^. That's definitely the way I would go if I had the room to let the engine sit up that high. No point re-engineering the wheel if you don't have to. Happy to see you putting the engine in it Tom. That's definitely one of the feel good moments during a build that big.
 

DURAMXD

BOB SAGET!
Apr 24, 2012
348
0
16
Wichita, KS
Giving up isn't an acceptable option. :D

I would think if you move it up you will run into all kinds of new clearance issues on the top side (hood, tranny tunnel, etc). My first move would be to put it farther back and clearance as required, but based on picture of the rack and pan it looks like it would have to go quite a ways back.

What about trying to switch to a crossover style steering setup with factory parts?
 

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
1,176
16
38
Phoenix, AZ
Whoa, that's nuts....never would have crossed my mind that the 2wd and 4wd frames were that different. I wonder if the steering setup from a 4wd would fit on that frame? Maybe the crossmember that it hits could be notched or moved down?
 

HSP Diesel

New member
Jun 24, 2013
52
0
0
Romeo, MI
Yeap, looks like I should have started with a 4x4 chassis. Makes sense why the engine doesnt fit. No HD truck used a R&P.


If you would like we could build a new pan for ya, We are working on a new pan for our race truck and would be happy to help you out!

Give me a call or send me a message and we can talk it over!
(989) 476-0135
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,677
1,944
113
Mid Michigan
Giving up isn't an acceptable option. :D

Thats what my fab guys up on my route in Westphalia said when I told them. :rofl: I havent thrown in the towel yet.

Thanks for the ideas, guys. I'm going to unbolt the r&p and let it drop out of the way to see if the engine touches the xmember once its on the mounts first.

I dont think raising the engine will work b/c it will add a whole host of new problems with fit.


Joe, thanks for the offer.

Pat, we'll talk about it the next time I stop into the shop. Tell Mike to order something!
 

mudbuster

New member
Dec 22, 2012
30
0
0
I'll see what I can do Tom I'd be better off having Melissa order something Mike would have it shipped to the wrong shop :roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:
 

dslhtrdr

Always learning
Nov 22, 2012
262
0
0
Sebastopol, Ca
I would definitely cut up the oil pan. There's a decent amount that can be removed to make extra room. I would also notch the frame where it's touching. You can always reinforce it if you have to remove a lot.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,677
1,944
113
Mid Michigan
Lower the rack and pinion down?

I wondered about that. Even looked for a rack that mounts from the top instead of the bottom. No luck.

I took the advice of my fab guy and stepped back from the truck for a bit, in order to cool off and think. When I get time this weekend, I'm going to lift the engine back up and figure out just how much height I need to clear the rack, then cut the intermediate pads in half and add in metal to raise them. Probably need between 1-1/2"-2". The stamped steel x-member will get cut up where it hits and braced below the pan.

Thanks for asking. I know you have a lot of experience with these swaps. I appreciate the help.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,677
1,944
113
Mid Michigan
updates Tom?

Yup. Should have started with a 4x4 truck. Wouldnt have had fitment issues and wasted time. Project is on indefinite hold and probably wont get finished. Sorry to everyone.

To advise everyone, if you want to do something like this, follow Thunder550's thread. He did it right.
 

jlawles2

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2010
1,062
40
48
Danbury, TX
I don't think the 4WD frames are different, just the 2WD 1/2 ton uses a R&P.

I think the HD 3/4 ton frame is 2 or 3 inches taller than the 1/2 ton. This is probably where the steering clearances come from.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,677
1,944
113
Mid Michigan
It wasnt just the r&p. 4wd frame doesnt have the large x-member under the front of the oil pan like the 2wd does, which necessitates lifting the engine and moving it back.

I still have all the parts from the truck, so I may find an LS engine/4L60 to put in it and call it a day.

I've asked the Staff to close the thread. Again, sorry guys.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,677
1,944
113
Mid Michigan
[YOUTUBE]orDBUrmK9vU[/YOUTUBE]
Thats the sound a thread makes when its re-opened after two years. :rofl:

I spent two years knocking my head against the wall, getting frustrated, and loosing faith my ideas would work.
A couple weeks ago, after I bought those rods and head bolts, I got motivated, said "To hell with it", got off my rear, and got my front suspension ideas completely worked out.
To that end, I started back working on the truck. This is what I figured out.
IMG_20150830_132036_087.jpg

Like I outlined a couple years ago, with swapping to 3/4 ton front suspension and brakes, I had far too much positive camber without any adjustment room due to the height of the 3/4 knuckle. I had to figure out how to get more negative camber without having to go with custom control arms or moving the control arm mounts (with no guarantee of success either way).

Enter Moog 6669 offset control arm bushings and Moog K100108 offset upper ball joints. These parts gave me 4* more negative camber than before. With the upper arms sitting in the OEM alignment spots, the arms are fully in their slots, which gives me full control of camber during the alignment in the future (this also gives me control over caster, where I had none before).
I also flipped the upper arms so they take up the 1-5/16" difference between 1/2 and 3/4 ton knuckles.

To adapt the small 1/2 ton upper ball joint to the larger 3/4 ton knuckle hole, I used the CST Performance ball joint sleeve, part CSS C12. The lower ball joints are exactly the same 3/4 to 1/2 ton, with the only difference the way they mount to the arms.

Also, I was able to reuse the 1/2 ton tie rod ends b/c I used the early 3/4 ton knuckles with the smaller tie rod holes. :)
IMG_20150830_132013_133.jpg

Then it was just a simple matter of bolting up the new Timken hubs, and installing the new Powershot brakes. I just cleaned and painted the old backing plates (they were rusty but still whole).

Before anyone asks, the only reason the stock springs and shocks are still there is that I can't measure for the coilovers until the whole truck is back together and I determine weight and ride height (as per James -- and I trust his opinion fully). Since I'll probably drop the lower arms to remove all that and install the coilovers, I plan on installing urethane bushings in the lower arms at the same time.

With everything completed:
IMG_20150830_135949_870.jpg


and this is what the camber looks like now (the pic really doesnt show it, but the stack of wood is level and straight vertical to give you an idea):
IMG_20150830_142407_106.jpg


Next is the rear axle. That'll be the next couple week's project. Small steps will end up getting this done.
 
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