Duramax in a Half Shell

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
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Glad things are working out for ya. Even though it feel's slow don't rush it I've done projects both way's and things seem to work better in the end if you take your time and think your way through things.

What did you find out was holding your tcase in or was it just being stuburn?

It was stubborn. Must be the darn thing didnt want to leave. I took your advice, and it worked its way off. Trust me, this is slow. :rofl:

Russ, thanks. :thumb:
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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Front suspension all figured out, using OEM parts. Everything fits exactly like it would on a HD truck. It does have some excessive positive camber to it, but I still have a lot of alignment adjustment left (its back in the OEM align points) If camber ends up being a problem, I'll just install offset bushings on the control arms, and at worst, use an offset upper ball joint....all available at any parts store. :) The rusty brake rotors are just installed for fit...new rotors/pads/hoses will be installed later.
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Next up....get engine mounts figured out, trans crossmember fitted and the engine/trans set in the frame.
 
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buildingup

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Looking good Tom! Is the body going to have to be modified for the trans to fit or you think you'll have enough room to squeeze by?

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TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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Looking good Tom! Is the body going to have to be modified for the trans to fit or you think you'll have enough room to squeeze by?
Hi Julian! I have to use a body lift, so trans will fit fine. I am using a Dmax radiator support. The only oddball thing Im looking at is using 1" body lift and lowering the rad support mounts an 1"....which gives me 2" total. We'll see if it works when I get there.

So what are the parts used for the front suspension? Which are 1500 & which are 2500hd?

Sorry, Mitch. Everything up to the spindles are 1500 parts, spindles are '99-'00 2500 4x4, hubs/brakes are 2500HD. Only non-OEM part is the CST taper sleeves.
 
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buildingup

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Washington, Mi
Hi Julian! I have to use a body lift, so trans will fit fine. I am using a Dmax radiator support. The only oddball thing Im looking at is using 1" body lift and lowering the rad support mounts an 1"....which gives me 2" total. We'll see if it works when I get there.



Sorry, Mitch. Everything up to the spindles are 1500 parts, spindles on out are 2500. Only non-OEM part is the CST taper sleeves.

Have you thought about getting someone good with sheet metal work to cut the tunnel out and raise it and add a little metal to stay away from the body lift?

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TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
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That would be interesting, but I have to match the body up with the Dmax rad support. No getting around using the Dmax rad/IC combo, and that entails using some kind of combination to get 2" lift.
 

Big Block 88

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Nov 3, 2008
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Tom on your i/c and rad couldn't you lay them back slightly and enlarge tunnel to avoid needing body lift? Are you wanting to be low as possible? Front end looks good offset ball joints will help alot
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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Im not to worried about it. An inch here, an inch there and it'll work and wont look to heinous.

The Allison will actually fit the 1500 body without the body lift, but it would be tight. It'll just be about an inch from the floorpan. Merchant and I experimented with this years ago.
 

Big Block 88

Multiple choice muscle
Nov 3, 2008
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Interesting our urban burbans overseas had d-mad alli swaps but he had to have body lifts to clear the alli and were uparmored full time 4 wheel drives The ones that had 4l80's had no body lifts and were typically unarmored 2 wheelers.

I think it is lookin good overall for sure keep it up bud.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
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Set the drivetrain down in the frame tonight with the help of my son.

IMG_20131022_201129_434.jpg


Everything was going well, until problem #1 reared its head....

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and then problem #2....

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and problem #3....

IMG_20131022_200853_518.jpg


So, the upper oil pan hits the rack and pinion, leaving the motor about 2-1/2" off it's intermediate mounts. The lower oil pan hits the stamped crossmember, too.

Anyone got any helpful ideas other than "give up"?
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
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Mid Michigan
Yeap, looks like I should have started with a 4x4 chassis. Makes sense why the engine doesnt fit. No HD truck used a R&P.