I will have to look again, but I think mine are also even with each other. I feared the passenger side mount had to be ahead a bit to clear the starter. Like I said, I figure you're going to find out before I do.
Duramax in a Half Shell
- Thread starter TheBac
- Start date
Well, recovered from my previous self-inflicted setbacks. Bought a good condition Dmax core support, radiator and I/C and have them in my possession now.
Went out this weekend and finished stripping the frame of all the brake lines, fuel lines/tank, wiring and most of the suspension components. Found that the two crossmembers over the gas tank have rusted through in spots, so I'll have to weld something in to take their place. Overall the frame itself is in good shape. Plan is to degrease, blast and repaint.
Got the rest of the donor front end taken off, and whenever I can get the engine hoist up into the upper garage, I'll get the drivetrain pulled.
Went out this weekend and finished stripping the frame of all the brake lines, fuel lines/tank, wiring and most of the suspension components. Found that the two crossmembers over the gas tank have rusted through in spots, so I'll have to weld something in to take their place. Overall the frame itself is in good shape. Plan is to degrease, blast and repaint.
Got the rest of the donor front end taken off, and whenever I can get the engine hoist up into the upper garage, I'll get the drivetrain pulled.
No prob 
Sounds like you are putting a lot more attention in to the details than I did. I wish I had the patience for it...when I get started on a project I want it done NOW...hah! Looking forward to seeing yours done the way I wish I had the patience to do mine
Sounds like you are putting a lot more attention in to the details than I did. I wish I had the patience for it...when I get started on a project I want it done NOW...hah! Looking forward to seeing yours done the way I wish I had the patience to do mine
4 month update: The glacier moves an inch.....
Frame cleaned up and painted. Have the tubing to repair the rusted crossmembers (it really wasnt as expensive as I thought), just have to get my brother over here to get it welded in. Motor gets pulled from donor on Sunday, and BBT swap commences next week.
Think I finally figured out how to put 2500 hubs and brakes on the front. Will know for sure Monday morning when I go measure the 99-00 2500 knuckles at the salvage yard. Amazing what you can figure out if you search long enough and put together the miscellaneous information from different sources you find.
Hopefully I'll have some definite progress on this by next Sunday.
Frame cleaned up and painted. Have the tubing to repair the rusted crossmembers (it really wasnt as expensive as I thought), just have to get my brother over here to get it welded in. Motor gets pulled from donor on Sunday, and BBT swap commences next week.
Think I finally figured out how to put 2500 hubs and brakes on the front. Will know for sure Monday morning when I go measure the 99-00 2500 knuckles at the salvage yard. Amazing what you can figure out if you search long enough and put together the miscellaneous information from different sources you find.
Hopefully I'll have some definite progress on this by next Sunday.
Chris, I dont know if this all would work with your 4x4, but this is what Im doing:
This is the 1500 side:
This is the 2500 side:
Tried Dodge hubs in the 1500 spindles first. They fit perfect, BUT there are NO shallow 8 lug rotors that would fit, and spacers werent feasible. Nuts.
I then borrowed a spindle from RGullett to see if I could make it work that way. Initially found the UBJ was too small (obviously) and the angles werent very good. The lower ball joints 1500 to 2500 are the same size, so that ended up not being an issue.
Found the 2500 UBJ cylinder size is too large for the 1500 arms, so wanted to find something that uses bolt-in ball joints. The DJM lowering arms would've work perfectly, and bolt-in ball joints of the correct size are available everywhere, but the extra length built into those arms ended up throwing the camber so far off positive Id never recover it. I could cut the arms back and weld the ends back on, but Im not keen on that idea. The Cognito arms would probably work if they are OEM length, but their cost is prohibitive.
So, what next? The guys on Performance Trucks gave me ideas. After seeing that post with the super-imposed pics of 1500 and 2500 spindles, I got to thinking differently. Then I read about guys flipping the 1500 upper arm and ball joint to get more camber adjustment. Then I noticed the OEM 2wd arm itself has some rise/drop built into it (its not a "level" piece), so when I flipped it, the ball joint would be roughly 2 inches higher....just what I need.
But I still had to figure out the ball joint size issue. One night while Googling for answers, I completely stumbled upon small-to-big ball joint taper sleeves from CST for their Silverado lift kits that were just what I needed to adapt the 12mm 1500 joint to the 14mm 2500 spindle. Unreal.
Only sticking point right now is the outer tie rod end. 1500 use 12mm tie rods 5.5" long, 2500 use 14mm 4.8" long. The 2500 tie rod end is just too short to use as it doesnt get enough "bite" on the 1500 inner end to be safe. The 99-02 2500 spindles SUPPOSEDLY used the small 1500-type 12mm tie rod end. They may POSSIBLY use the small 1500-size UBJ (but with the taper sleeves, its not a big deal if they do or dont). If that doesnt work, I'll try to find taper sleeves like I did the UBJs, or scour the internet looking for a 5.5" long 14mm female outer tie rod end. I will find out Monday.
OEM spindle camber (not touched) using a 245/75/16 tire:
2500 spindle camber, with upper arm set back in OEM alignment spots and a 275/70/16 tire:
They are dead-on right now.
IF, for some reason the camber is out of whack once the weight is back on the frame, I can buy offset bushings that will give me more adjustment to the upper arms. The downside is I have about $500 in parts I cant return, which isnt ideal, but thats what you get for experimenting. Anyone need some 1500 Silverado DJM upper control arms or 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 2wd hubs for cheap? :rofl:
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Thank Jordan. When you're on a budget, making one mistake can set you back a few weeks. I've made, um, more than a few. :rofl:
I had to go help the wife and brother in law continue to clean out rooms and move out furniture from their father's home today, so I didnt get anything done on the truck. Did move the donor up to the garage, though. Hadnt started it in a few months, but wouldnt ya know it...the darn thing started right up and ran smooth after I charged the battery up.
When you're on a budget, making one mistake can set you back a few weeks. I've made, um, more than a few. :rofl: I had to go help the wife and brother in law continue to clean out rooms and move out furniture from their father's home today, so I didnt get anything done on the truck. Did move the donor up to the garage, though. Hadnt started it in a few months, but wouldnt ya know it...the darn thing started right up and ran smooth after I charged the battery up.
Great work on those front spindles, this is info that will help a lot of people I think. My half ton stuff is holding up so far, so I doubt I'll be doing the switch unless something bad happens in the future, but I'm sure that most who do these swaps will want the heavier duty running gear.
Got the spindles home and compared to what I already have. For some reason, these '99 2500 spindles are 1-1/2" taller than the later 2500 spindle I got from Riley. I have no idea why. The part numbers on them dont register in the GM listings, either. 15718980 and 15718981
Put one of them on, and unfortunately this extra spindle height throws the upper geometry off again. Not by much (goes from positive to negative about the same amount), but enough where I cant make it right.
Its too bad, because the tie rods bolted right up, ball joints bolted up same as previous (with sleeve).
Damn it, back to the drawing board. At least I can take these back.
If any of you off-roader guys know of someone who makes tie rod taper sleeves/adapters...let me know.
Put one of them on, and unfortunately this extra spindle height throws the upper geometry off again. Not by much (goes from positive to negative about the same amount), but enough where I cant make it right.
Its too bad, because the tie rods bolted right up, ball joints bolted up same as previous (with sleeve).
Damn it, back to the drawing board. At least I can take these back.
If any of you off-roader guys know of someone who makes tie rod taper sleeves/adapters...let me know.
HA! Went to another yard and looked at 4wd spindles on a 99...same height as the one I have but with small tie rod hole. :thumb:
The height diff must be a 2wd-to-4wd thing. I have to wait til next week for the yard to remove them. Back on track....
Went to another yard and looked at 4wd spindles on a 99...same height as the one I have but with small tie rod hole. :thumb: The height diff must be a 2wd-to-4wd thing. I have to wait til next week for the yard to remove them. Back on track....
If you want Tom, i have some tapered studs to convert the tie rod to a heim joint. they bolt right into the 2500hd spindle and would use a 5/8" heim. I got them from Ben (d-max mafia) a while back thinking i could use two on the inner tie rod area of my EXAXT kit to make a heim steering setup but they are too short for that.
sounds like you got it figured out with the spindles though
sounds like you got it figured out with the spindles though
Made some progress on the donor. Had the Tcase almost ready to come out and then rain came. I sure hope my little trans jack can handle it, b/c I know I can't. :rofl:
Engine/trans is ready to be removed, wire harness almost all out too. Hopefully tomorrow I get another 6hrs of nice weather.
Did find that the front diff is broken from the wreck. Everything else looks good so far.Wish I had a lift. I hate working under a vehicle in the driveway.
If you want Tom, i have some tapered studs to convert the tie rod to a heim joint. they bolt right into the 2500hd spindle and would use a 5/8" heim. I got them from Ben (d-max mafia) a while back thinking i could use two on the inner tie rod area of my EXAXT kit to make a heim steering setup but they are too short for that.
sounds like you got it figured out with the spindles though
The 99-00 spindles have the proper 12mm tie rod holes that I needed, James. The tie rods should bolt right back where they were with the 1/2 ton spindles. I should be set, but thank you anyways!
Finally!
Going to have to buy a new NSBU, new trans lines, new starter solenoid and replace the farthest rearward speed sensor plug. Otherwise the assy came out without a hitch. It is a SOB to pull an engine/trans as a pair by yourself.
Anyone want to buy a reman'd 261xHD (manual lever) T-case?
Willing to trade good 4x4 adapter housing and output shaft for good 2wd tailhousing and output shaft, too.
Going to have to buy a new NSBU, new trans lines, new starter solenoid and replace the farthest rearward speed sensor plug. Otherwise the assy came out without a hitch. It is a SOB to pull an engine/trans as a pair by yourself.
Anyone want to buy a reman'd 261xHD (manual lever) T-case?
Willing to trade good 4x4 adapter housing and output shaft for good 2wd tailhousing and output shaft, too.
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Glad things are working out for ya. Even though it feel's slow don't rush it I've done projects both way's and things seem to work better in the end if you take your time and think your way through things.
What did you find out was holding your tcase in or was it just being stuburn?
What did you find out was holding your tcase in or was it just being stuburn?
