Guys its nothing more than 2 double-pole toggle switches. I mean hell Ill tell you how to make that with parts from radio shack for $7.99.
The issue that concerns me (and you can decide if these issues are important to you or not, im not trying to tell you to buy mine and not Tony's) is there is *zero* safety built into Tony's box. It doesnt monitor brake pedal switch status, current gear, vehicle speed, or throttle position. Its the equivalent of the toggle switch that the cummins guys put on their trucks. Because thats all it is. A toggle switch. Mine is fully computerized and monitors many different aspects, and is "smart" in every sense of the word....which is why mine is more expensive.
So if you leave one of Tony's controllers force-locked, and hit the brakes, the truck is going to keep going. Maybe that wont be a problem on a back country road, but what if you have to stop short to keep from hitting that little old lady crossing the road in front of you... (ok sorry I had to be cliche)
Or how about at speed on the highway, some knuckle-dragger cuts you off and you have to slam on the brakes. At higher speeds with quick braking, the engine probably wont be able to push the truck through the brakes with a locked converter, so the opposite happens. The engine stalls. These trucks are hard enough to stop and maneuver with power steering and power brakes WORKING. Neither of those luxuries exist when the engine is shut off.
Tony's lockup controller isnt hands-free. You have to reach clear across to the other side of the dash and flip the toggle switch. I could barely focus on doing anything else years back when I used to race my truck. And that was slow-ass mid 12's. I couldnt imagine having to reach over and flip the "lock" toggle switch if I was pulling 1.5x 60' times and running 11's or faster.
Thats a total misnomer, Tony labeling his switch "manual/auto". Its not "auto"...I dont know if hes deliberately trying to mis-lead people into thinking it has some sort of "auto lockup" mode or if it was a genuine mistake....but the correct labeling for the switch on tony's box should be
"manual/factory".
And because there is no smooth PWM ramp-up, lockup will be rather harsh. I would be careful using it with big power on stock hard parts.
No PWM also means the solenoid sees 100% duty cycle whenever you have it manually force-locked. Which will eventually burn out the TCC solenoid.
The reason mine "times out" after 15 seconds and returns back to factory, is to lessen the chance of it setting a code if you accidentally leave it force-locked and forget about it. If anyone wants that feature disabled, I can do that for you.
Ben
