Chevy1925 (James) Truck/motor build
- Thread starter Chevy1925
- Start date
I will say Ron Davis makes a great product.
How ever, I have to agree. There is no way I would pay that much. Even the AUX kits are a little on the pricey side. I don't know if this is his only source of income or what. There are other Manufactures out there that can make a quality product at a reasonable price. And Frankley for that Price, I could do it myself. There has to be at least a $1000 mark up on that radiator.
I worked with Ron Davis and Joe (cooler towing) to make my dual pass radiator. It was not cheap but it wasn’t 2400 bucks. This was back in 2018 though as well. Joe and Ron understood how full retard I was about towing with the limo and actually wanted to help while giving suggestions as well.
The aux radiator I had/brad has came from Joe at cooler towing as well.
Considering the coin I had in the engine, transmission, diffs, and everything else in the limo, a few grand for a good drop in coolant temps was worth it. Ron’s rads are also extremely well known in the off road world for robustness and won’t fail like a mishimoto or other aftermarket ones for dmax’es. My first dual pass started to leak. No questions asked, Ron built an entire new one with additional bracing and 0 leaks since. He since updated all the others with that bracing.
The aux radiator I had/brad has came from Joe at cooler towing as well.
Considering the coin I had in the engine, transmission, diffs, and everything else in the limo, a few grand for a good drop in coolant temps was worth it. Ron’s rads are also extremely well known in the off road world for robustness and won’t fail like a mishimoto or other aftermarket ones for dmax’es. My first dual pass started to leak. No questions asked, Ron built an entire new one with additional bracing and 0 leaks since. He since updated all the others with that bracing.
Yup, I used them in the past. Good stuff.
Be nice to get one at a more reasonable price for my application.
Be nice to get one at a more reasonable price for my application.
It just sucks they're $2400........................... I could see $1000-$1500 but that markup is nuts like others have said.
I agree, I would Pay $1500.
We all know the ShityMoyo radiators are straight from China. Probably the same place the no name brand china ones are coming from.
Jumped into working on the truck today. Need to haul the tracker out to KOH on the flatbed trailer or have Erin drive the Limo while i take hers. Not sure yet.
Got the exhaust pipe off the back of the valley turbo and to my surprise….
Aint nothing wrong with the flap. Instead, i found the banks wastegate lost preload on the flap and its open about 1/16 of an inch open. Why? Im not sure. I know anthony was adjusting boost by shimming under the wastegate head. I remember i fucked around with it a couple weeks before the trip so im not sure if i did something or what. Center section to exhaust housing was kinda loose. Maybe it shifted on me.
Either way, ill totally take this news over replacing a turbo right now lol.
So in the mean time, im changing all the turbo coolant lines, heater hoses and putting the dorman steel heater hose connectors on (surprisingly the only factory white one is still going strong. Other got replaced years ago), new fuel lines in the engine bay and cleaning some stuff up previous me did. Need to get an alternator for it too and new inner fender well for the passenger side
Got the exhaust pipe off the back of the valley turbo and to my surprise….
Aint nothing wrong with the flap. Instead, i found the banks wastegate lost preload on the flap and its open about 1/16 of an inch open. Why? Im not sure. I know anthony was adjusting boost by shimming under the wastegate head. I remember i fucked around with it a couple weeks before the trip so im not sure if i did something or what. Center section to exhaust housing was kinda loose. Maybe it shifted on me.
Either way, ill totally take this news over replacing a turbo right now lol.
So in the mean time, im changing all the turbo coolant lines, heater hoses and putting the dorman steel heater hose connectors on (surprisingly the only factory white one is still going strong. Other got replaced years ago), new fuel lines in the engine bay and cleaning some stuff up previous me did. Need to get an alternator for it too and new inner fender well for the passenger side
Don't mean to derail this, but when you heading out KOH James? WE have a large group that goes out the last week and weekend. We don't stay in hammer town but about 30 minutes out and away from the crowds.
We will be out there for the desert race. Ill head out either the night of the 29th or 30th and back home the 2nd. We are racing the maverik R we built last year.
So ideally I’d like to be out there for Thursday so i can prerun the course with the tracker and then sit and watch lines to give to Nate as he’s driving. Im pit support this go round.
So ideally I’d like to be out there for Thursday so i can prerun the course with the tracker and then sit and watch lines to give to Nate as he’s driving. Im pit support this go round.
I recommend the aluminum fittings from the Dmax Store if you haven't already installed the Dorman parts. I like their design better, and I never really liked the weight of the Dorman fittings. It always made me a little concerned about damaging the heater core. I'm sure it was worry over nothing, but I sometimes overthink things.
Seriously??? Was it corroded or something?We just replaced a heater core today that we damaged while installing fittings.
Weeeeeellllllllll i already installed them yesterday morning. I dont think it will be an issue but who knows.
I think the tech got a little aggressive on a 20 year old 400k mile heater core.
Or it was previously damaged and we finished it off.
Stuff happens. I know I have had to cut the fittings and break them apart in the past when they stick and won't release.
She back alive again and builds boost pretty damn instantly. Hell yeah! Needs a good douching and then on to a fender liner
Jumped into working on the truck today. Need to haul the tracker out to KOH on the flatbed trailer or have Erin drive the Limo while i take hers. Not sure yet.
Got the exhaust pipe off the back of the valley turbo and to my surprise….
Aint nothing wrong with the flap. Instead, i found the banks wastegate lost preload on the flap and its open about 1/16 of an inch open. Why? Im not sure. I know anthony was adjusting boost by shimming under the wastegate head. I remember i fucked around with it a couple weeks before the trip so im not sure if i did something or what. Center section to exhaust housing was kinda loose. Maybe it shifted on me.
Either way, ill totally take this news over replacing a turbo right now lol.
So in the mean time, im changing all the turbo coolant lines, heater hoses and putting the dorman steel heater hose connectors on (surprisingly the only factory white one is still going strong. Other got replaced years ago), new fuel lines in the engine bay and cleaning some stuff up previous me did. Need to get an alternator for it too and new inner fender well for the passenger side
I'm wondering how the Turbosmart actuator would work in this application.