Bought, wrecked, rebuilding a 2009 LMM

[jlawles2]

400F is a decent number that will keep you below any temper on steel. If I knew the steel number I might be able to find the tempering numbers to get you a higher number.

Are you planning to cut the keys off or you trying to get them to break loose and slide off? Have you tried wrapping the end in plastic and dousing with vinegar or Evap-O-Rust?

 

[malibu795]

J,
Only chemical I've so far is PB blaster, which has seeped all the way through..been soaking it in that since I pulled whole thing out..

ATF/acetone has been recommended, haven't had a chance to mix anything yet,

Ideally I was hoping to have everything break loose the clean everything and coat it with anti sease.
I might be able to torch the keys in a manner that doesn't hurt the crossmember.

New mevotech arms are ~240.00 each through XDP
Napa premium are ~250.00ea and same pictures as mevotech on XDP lol. Local Napa guy gives me discounts.. no clue what it would be .

 

[1FastBrick]

That's rough... I would agree on the temp and not going over 400

Maybe you can use a 2 jaw puller?

 

[pl_silverado]

That torsion bar crossmember is discontinued now, just fyi. So used is your only option if you need a replacement.

I’ve had more luck with the air hammer than a puller.

 

[malibu795]

Floated car-part.. local yard has 7-8 pairs at 40-50 an arm.. put new bushings and ball joint In them call it good.
I'll probably use a cut off wheel and split it in two

 

[jlawles2]

If you can find it Kroil is a good penetrant. Not cheap by any means.

The vinegar or evap-o-rust may get in there and break down the corrosion. I've seen mixed results online of people using it.

Grinder to split while not elegant or fast will definitely get the job done. Just keep a bucket of water handy to douse the key and see if you can CRACK the key before you get all the way through it to the bar. I'd probably use a standard disk vs a cut off wheel and wipe a decent groove vs a narrow slit to aid in the cracking.

 

[malibu795]

If you can find it Kroil is a good penetrant. Not cheap by any means.

The vinegar or evap-o-rust may get in there and break down the corrosion. I've seen mixed results online of people using it.

Grinder to split while not elegant or fast will definitely get the job done. Just keep a bucket of water handy to douse the key and see if you can CRACK the key before you get all the way through it to the bar. I'd probably use a standard disk vs a cut off wheel and wipe a decent groove vs a narrow slit to aid in the cracking.

I've Not quite worked out something for the key, yet, but I'm less worried about heat with it. As if it fails the truck just drops to suspension stop vs lower control arm fails lord knows where I'm going

 

[malibu795]

Solution acquire for the lower control arms.. $35.00 bushing are better then what I got and probably going to be the easiest ball joint swap lol

 

[malibu795]

That part of the problem is fixed.
Need to get the keys pulled off. Ball joints swapped and start putting it back together.

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Kroil oil is some crazy shit…

 

[jlawles2]

Yeah I don't think any amount of penetrant was going to get that thing out. that looks like a lot of 1 - 2 hits forward, 1- 2 hits backward if it ever were to start moving.

I did look and some of the parts are available still. https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/v-200...--6-6l-v8-diesel/suspension--front-suspension looks like lower control arms are backordered. And I thought the torsion bars were the same driver to passenger side.

even the keys seem to be available https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/v-200...l-v8-diesel/suspension--suspension-components

 

[malibu795]

Using OEM lower control arm units from junkyard,
Called Hicksville T-bars crossmember is ~150.00 from them in case I screw this one up.
I've got a fairly stout puller setup plus access to presses to get the keys out.
Plan to have the IFS in the truck, fuel fitting sorted out for fuel lines, brake lines
Ordering new body mounts from S&B
Assorted stuff from DHD/Merchant automotive ordered as well

 

[PureHybrid]

I like Kroil too, but I don't think that would've been Adam's saving grace

 

[malibu795]

I like Kroil too, but I don't think that would've been Adam's saving grace

Once I got the section off, I beat the front part of then, then heal stomped it to twist it off.
Wired wheeled the ends and new arms slid right on

 

[1FastBrick]

I Never would have suspected the rust to encapsulate them like that... No amount of penetrating oil would save you from the hell of trying to remove those.

Well executed!!!

 

[malibu795]

I Never would have suspected the rust to encapsulate them like that... No amount of penetrating oil would save you from the hell of trying to remove those.

Well executed!!!

It looks like it got under the coating then traveled, swelled everything solid... I'm sure there where micro shinny spot made as the suspension cycled then sat and rusted.

The amount of heat needed to break it loose would have, most likely, compromised the integrity of said control arms as well.

Totally expecting similar conditions with TBars keys

 

[1FastBrick]

It looks like it got under the coating then traveled, swelled everything solid... I'm sure there where micro shinny spot made as the suspension cycled then sat and rusted.

The amount of heat needed to break it loose would have, most likely, compromised the integrity of said control arms as well.

Totally expecting similar conditions with TBars keys

The heat would also compromise the torsion bar as well...

 

[malibu795]

The heat would also compromise the torsion bar as well...

There's less uncontrolled damage from a weak torsion bar breaking than a lower control arm breaking.

 

[malibu795]

Got tired of asking nicely.. and Quickly remembered how much PITA cast is to torch.

 

[2004LB7]

Those torsion bars are probably made of 5160 or 9260. Springs are normally tempered around 700 to 900 degrees depending on what the manufacturer wants. So as long as you don't let them turn blue on a clean area of the steel you shouldn't ruin the spring. But as others mentioned. 400° is much safer. Which is a light straw color

If you had a tray or bucket large enough to put then in, you could have soaked then in some hydrochloric acid and the wound have probably come out easily. The acid would have only attacked the rust leaving the normal steal alone. A little late now...