Would you use a type of header or just stock manifolds?
I guess that money could then be used on a set of Mahle pistons.
I guess that money could then be used on a set of Mahle pistons.
Best DD Engine Build??
- Thread starter MAXX IT OUT
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X2. People making double the hp with damn near the same size as stock. Only benefit of up pipes is the stronger bellows. Witch correct drive pressure should keep that in check
bigger manifolds/up pipes really come into play when you are running a restricted turbo size but driving the heck out of it for max power. obviously the turbo hot side would have to outflow the stock up pipes (something in the 472 range and up or certain sled pull setups), then you gain the benefits of the higher flow and lower drive pressure from them. a stroker motor would see a benefit from them as well
Twins or large turbos not being pushed to extremes usually keep drive pressure in check due to staying in their map.
Twins or large turbos not being pushed to extremes usually keep drive pressure in check due to staying in their map.
I built mine with 900+ HP in mind, but at relatively low torque, so probably more in line with a normal 700-800 HP build.
The goal down the road is compound turbos, probably a 71 mm and a 90+ mm, so I can push 5000 RPM instead of choking out at 3600 RPM. If I can hold the same ~970 ft-lb up the rev range with the bigger turbo setup, that'll be a bit over 900 HP, which was my original goal.
- Stock block, .020" over (300k miles, it was at service limits)
- Stock 300k mile LB7 crank (it magnafluxed as good), keyed
- Carillo rods
- Mahle race cast pistons with valve reliefs, 16.5:1 (probably should have stayed stock CR)
- Stock flexplate (looked good, and relatively easy to replace when needed)
- SoCal / ATI damper
- Fully (externally) balanced,align hone on the crank journal, all new bearings
- Stock 300k mile oil pump
- Comp Cams most absurd cam (this might have been a mistake, but it sings at 5000 RPM!), normal fire order (I don't buy the AF saving the crank argument personally)
- Wagler LB7 head (cast-in injector cups)
- SoCal valve springs (any should work, I had these laying around)
- +75% SAC injectors (probably will have to go up to 150% or more when I get air)
- Single S371 turbo (all I could afford at the time)
- LML driver side manifold, stock passenger manifold, RDL up-pipes
- ARP fasteners everywhere
The goal down the road is compound turbos, probably a 71 mm and a 90+ mm, so I can push 5000 RPM instead of choking out at 3600 RPM. If I can hold the same ~970 ft-lb up the rev range with the bigger turbo setup, that'll be a bit over 900 HP, which was my original goal.
Doesn’t the lml manifold flow more than 01-10 manifolds? I thought I remember seeing where people would port the 01-10 manifold before it goes into the up pipe and the lml manifold you didn’t need to.
Any amount you over bore will help with airflow, unshrouding the valves. It would be minuscule, and extremely expensive/hard to measure gains but its a major reason I wouldn't be afraid to over bore when replacing pistons. Do not waste money on exhaust parts before budgeting for motorsports pistons either.
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Incorrect. The 01-10 were choked down to fit an application that GM never ended up using. The lml is the first year to have the manifolds not choked down like the 01-10
But do they? That claim could vary by a large margin as there is so many different ways to make power
True. I just think more power higher egts and a guy would want to address that issue?
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Put your money on the best internals you can afford(rods+pistons+studs) otherwise it will always be in the back of your mind every time you use your truck on a long haul. FYI I didn’t gain anything from manifolds and up pipes on the dyno in the 600whp range.
I found it interesting the reasons given for mani's and up's. Considering how hard I pushed my stock turbo, it makes sense they helped me.
Sorry ment to type isn't choked down.. lol
My last lml build consists of.
Stock block, 40 over, mahle race casts, with valve reliefs
Billet mains, callies compstar crank, wagler rods, studded mains, head, and rocker bridges, dorman oil cooler, DP water pump, wagler stg 1 af cam, wagler valve springs, had the heads gone through. 10mm stroker cp3 swap. I did get a set of prefab manifolds and uppipes because I traded my stock lml stuff for them.. maybe a little over built for my needs but hoping to not have to ever do it again.
