James my truck barely hits 1200* EGT's another reason i think mine lasted so long... TONS of air vs available fuel.
Best DD Engine Build??
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James my truck barely hits 1200* EGT's another reason i think mine lasted so long... TONS of air vs available fuel.
I have not seen the DX do anything that has impressed me other then revving up in parking lots. How many dx engines are in the 10s or faster list.
That's what I assumed you meant but wasn't sure.
I'm impressed with waglers parts, have used piles of them. The solid head thing is quite a big deal in sled pulling, for one.
But the parts alone will not make power or impress. Takes someone pulling it all together and make it work. Which is why I built & tuned & repaired & spec'd etc etc our competition truck myself. Not saying I'm better than anyone, just that I am in complete control of it. Logistics, time, money, competition, etc make it hard for someone else to do their best. We may in fact do better if we didn't do it this way, but we are not willing to try. It's just a personal drive too. Best way to learn and improve if you ask me.
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I ran the truck in my sig at 700rwhp daily driven for 6 years. Carrillo/Mahle Race cast. Stock heads. Stock crank. No AF cam! Single tune no DSP. Made around 50 passes with it too. Zero issues besides tearing up a torque converter. I beat the snot out of the thing and it just wanted more. The builder has a lot to do with it too. My cousins truck is setup just like mine was except he runs 100% Exergy, ported heads and a 472 TCT. He has 110,000 miles on his motor and 215k on the truck.
There's at least a couple DX460 engines in big time pulling trucks ("farmer dave" on here I think - LMM tilt body truck of the farmer in NY maybe and I think the Cummins Killer II truck) that are competing with the mighty Cummins. That's definitely no small task! :thumb:
But enough of that talk... we're talking about daily driver 800rwhp builds in this thread...
But enough of that talk... we're talking about daily driver 800rwhp builds in this thread...
that and the fact you dont drive it :roflmao: :hug:
when we tore steves engine down, he had been running uS that no one in their right mind would and his pistons looked just fine. he didnt even delip them when we reassembled it but that truck also never leaves the garage now
If Mahle did any changes, I have not seen it. But I don't know everything. Maybe the alloy is different.....
I just looked at the 2018 Mahle catalog and it sais “revised casting” now what that means who’s knows.
http://www.us.mahle.com/media/motorsports/app-guide-2018-diesel.pdf
http://www.us.mahle.com/media/motorsports/app-guide-2018-diesel.pdf
Wow, machine shops around here are $1250-$1750 for that work.
Bore/hone mains, bore/hone cylinders with tq plates, bake and blast the block, thread oil galleys, balance assy, deck the block, measure for bearings and supply bearings, etc.
I know I paid a lot but I wanted the best of the best. Sure I could get it done cheaper but when I wanted my rotating assembly balanced within a gram at 7000rpm I knew where I had to go. Maybe that’s why my crank is still in one piece after 130,000 miles, maybe I’m just lucky.
Just because you paid more than anyone else doesnt mean they are the only ones capable of doing top level work.
I just did two callies crank externally balanced engines this fall. The billet main cap one cost me $2430 in machining, cleaning, and heads jet washed and checked. It was bored from stock size to .040" and o ringed as well. The callies cranks take a lot of mallory to balance, this one took 4 1" slugs and 1 3/4" slug. Balanced to within 1%. Balancing cost $580 alone.
I also did a stock main cap engine that did not need bored and did not need align bored, only honed. The different damper and flywheel setup on this one only required 2 3/4" slugs to balance the crank. Balancing alone was $375. The total machining costs were $1565.
I just did two callies crank externally balanced engines this fall. The billet main cap one cost me $2430 in machining, cleaning, and heads jet washed and checked. It was bored from stock size to .040" and o ringed as well. The callies cranks take a lot of mallory to balance, this one took 4 1" slugs and 1 3/4" slug. Balanced to within 1%. Balancing cost $580 alone.
I also did a stock main cap engine that did not need bored and did not need align bored, only honed. The different damper and flywheel setup on this one only required 2 3/4" slugs to balance the crank. Balancing alone was $375. The total machining costs were $1565.
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I think many people get internal and external balancing mixed up along with blue printing.
It's almost cheaper now to buy a lml block then to have a full block done.
It's almost cheaper now to buy a lml block then to have a full block done.
What about checking the block and crank for cracks? Polishing the crank? Short fill on the block. Within 1% :rofl: this isn’t the 1960’s