When I build the next truck I will go with James setup. He beats on it and it is still alive...:hug:
Best DD Engine Build??
- Thread starter MAXX IT OUT
- Start date
^^ha!
At/below 800hp, there is a ton of different ways to skin the cat. It’s hard to put something wrong in, just different plus or minus to each. It’s just going to consist of aftermarket rods, stock old pistons (lb7/lly) that are delipped or aftermarket, and if you want a stock or aftermarket crank.
Bearings, everyone either goes clevite P or H for main and rods, stock for cam unless you really got a high lift cam in there and are going to rev it
Main studs, stock is fine but aftermarket will require aline hone which can open up bearing clearance (may be good depending on your wants)
Head studs for sure with victor rienz gaskets or lml if you feel risky (mine are still holding thus far)
At/below 800hp, there is a ton of different ways to skin the cat. It’s hard to put something wrong in, just different plus or minus to each. It’s just going to consist of aftermarket rods, stock old pistons (lb7/lly) that are delipped or aftermarket, and if you want a stock or aftermarket crank.
Bearings, everyone either goes clevite P or H for main and rods, stock for cam unless you really got a high lift cam in there and are going to rev it
Main studs, stock is fine but aftermarket will require aline hone which can open up bearing clearance (may be good depending on your wants)
Head studs for sure with victor rienz gaskets or lml if you feel risky (mine are still holding thus far)
They will come down more than a setup that is lacking air, but they will never be at the 12-1300 degrees you see with stock fueling and compounds. There is just no way to get them to that point anymore when you start adding a lot of fuel. All that heat from the extra fuel you are injecting has to go somewhere, and I would rather it go out the exhaust valve than into the piston anyway.
What’s the most power you can make with a single turbo setup that’s being used as a DD ? Without a bunch of lag and smoke? I myself have a built long block , ported heads , stage 2 SoCal cam, etc etc . Still trying to decide whether twins or single.
So what are all the aftermarket hard parts that could be used to make up this mess.
Available rods that I can think of
Manley's
Bryan Crower
Wagler
Crower
Carrillo
Howard's
Available Cast pistons that I can think of.
Mahle Race Cast
Fingers Cast
Stock LB7 Delipped
Is there any other options available for pistons? Are Forged still a No Go for a long life street engine?
Available rods that I can think of
Manley's
Bryan Crower
Wagler
Crower
Carrillo
Howard's
Available Cast pistons that I can think of.
Mahle Race Cast
Fingers Cast
Stock LB7 Delipped
Is there any other options available for pistons? Are Forged still a No Go for a long life street engine?
I have been thinking about CP/Carrillo Hybrids setup, but also the fact that here isn't a lot of options for cast pistons.
actually you would be very surprised what the cummins guys do to get them down there. sled pullers especially. i was talking to one of the pullers there (cant remember his name) but he injects so much water than EGTs never surpass 1200 but its about 3 gal worth of water poured in it by the end of the track.
we dont see over 1500* on the small tune in ours but that is a very good flowing head and big turbos. Curious what it will drop to on nitrous.
But i agree, let that crap go out the exhaust. My truck wont see over 1300 on the 600rwhp tune at WOT even pulling the trailer. the race tune is another story but im driving the stock turbo really hard then.
id like to see the Diamond forged pistons in a DD engine. they have a steel ring land in them.
Forged will be noisy till warm up though as their piston to wall clearance has to be pretty large to accommodate for growth.
Forged will be noisy till warm up though as their piston to wall clearance has to be pretty large to accommodate for growth.
Curious as to why? Fingers cast are proven to hold big power and last. I had 3 hard years on mine before buck let loose.
As for egts with my triples with 250s it never got above 1800 degrees. Once chargers lit it came way down. Nitrous brought the egts down a hair.
Higher drive pressures elevate egt’s also. I think there is a formula to figure out what the temps are actually in the cylinder if your drive and egt is known.
If I was building a weekend race truck I would have no question question about going with fingers cast and they might end up being what gets used. Fingers proved that the ovel is stronger, no debate there. IF I can run a forged piston on the street for long term it would be attractive to have the efficiency of a round piston bowl.
As for the hybrid piston rod set, anything that drops a couple pounds off the rotating assembly is probably good for the crank as well as the rest of the engine. The trouble with them is that they have forged pistons, which brought up the forged piston question.
what do you plan to run for piston to head clearance and so forth? that will make just as big of difference on mpg as fingers pistons. being you are thinking of forged, you are not gaining much in the way of mpg over fingers bowl design as you will again need more p to w and p to h clearance for the forged than the cast. that means more blow by and larger quench area. fingers bowl design is minimal in mpg loss/dirtyness when compared to cast reg oval and all variables held constant like Adam did but where you are now comparing the forged in there, it really changes things.
Probably John, retired fireman, red 12 valve dodge, is a member of the Scheid team. He is crazy with how much water he injects, I spoke with him a length about it once and he told me that he had to replace the head once bc it was so rusted up from the water injection...:f-that:
James, the only reason I would was considering Forged as a option, was going to the CP/Carrillo setup. But if forged will give me more issues than its worth, than its back the Fingers or race cast. I just remember everyone was cracking race cast piston before fingers came out. But to be fair, I think most of those came out trucks trying to push a lot more power than I am.
they were in the 800+ range that were cracking them. they werent much stronger than the LB7/LLY when delipped. back when, everyone claimed you had to coat the pistons too to make them live and thats definitely not true...
i feel tuning has come a long ways to take care of said issues at your power level so i dont think it will be as big of a problem but it still comes back to keeping egt's low (not 2000+ lol), good timing setup, and not running a huge pulse width.
Cause at first we want 800hp. Then 1000hp. Then 1200hp. Then 1400hp. My theory is overbuild it the first time. I'm not personally sold on wagler parts yet. Everyone I talk to with a solid Duramax have had issues with them. In the big picture its worth paying the extra knowing the parts you installed are the best on the market.
Supposedly the Mahle Racecast pistons have been updated and are better from the earlier ones that were cracking easier, I'm not sure when though could be a rumor to so who knows for sure.