Beginning of the end?

MAXLLY

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
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San Diego
Kinda sorta.

To many holes reduces rotor surface forcing an increase in caliper application force. Not enough and the pad gets hot everywhere except where the holes are... the rotor wears everywhere except inline of the holes.

1. Clock the rotor, determine equal spacing, use the lug holes at start reference, 8 line/marks.
2. After clocking, tip the rotor on edge and re-reference the marks (outter most edge) so they fall between the fins between the rotor surface.
3. Spin the rotor to establish 3 line spacing (3 rows of holes on the rotor surface).
4. You now have 3 lines each smaller than the next, I used 1/2" increments, so from edge of hub it's 1/2" center, 1" center and 1.5" center. 3 rings. Between step 1, 2 and 3 you have the 3 circles and the outer most intersecting points.
5. Mark the next row (closer to the hub center) in the center of the fins, then the next.
6. Now you have 3 circles and a bunch of interseting points.
7. Doop 'em and drill 'em. If you push the bit through fast buy extra's, if you are patient and keep the bit cool/oiled it'll take one bit to do all the rotors like mine.

Couple more points, you'll need a drill bit roughly 5-6" long. Otherwise the chuck may hit the e brake hub prior to popping through the backside of the innermost drill point. Lastly before you drill it... stand back take a far away look at it, is it straight? square? round? Finally a brake lathe can help center the rings, I used a permanent marker while spinning.

Good Luck.

If so congrats they look trick and you saved a ton.
 
M

Mike

hmmm....
Feb 17, 2007
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San Angelo, TX
MAXLLY said:
Kinda sorta.

To many holes reduces rotor surface forcing an increase in caliper application force. Not enough and the pad gets hot everywhere except where the holes are... the rotor wears everywhere except inline of the holes.

1. Clock the rotor, determine equal spacing, use the lug holes at start reference, 8 line/marks.
2. After clocking, tip the rotor on edge and re-reference the marks (outter most edge) so they fall between the fins between the rotor surface.
3. Spin the rotor to establish 3 line spacing (3 rows of holes on the rotor surface).
4. You now have 3 lines each smaller than the next, I used 1/2" increments, so from edge of hub it's 1/2" center, 1" center and 1.5" center. 3 rings. Between step 1, 2 and 3 you have the 3 circles and the outer most intersecting points.
5. Mark the next row (closer to the hub center) in the center of the fins, then the next.
6. Now you have 3 circles and a bunch of interseting points.
7. Doop 'em and drill 'em. If you push the bit through fast buy extra's, if you are patient and keep the bit cool/oiled it'll take one bit to do all the rotors like mine.

Couple more points, you'll need a drill bit roughly 5-6" long. Otherwise the chuck may hit the e brake hub prior to popping through the backside of the innermost drill point. Lastly before you drill it... stand back take a far away look at it, is it straight? square? round? Finally a brake lathe can help center the rings, I used a permanent marker while spinning.

Good Luck.

If so congrats they look trick and you saved a ton.
Click to expand...

Here is another " How to " tutorial. What do you think James? Thanks
 
MAXLLY

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
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San Diego
Mike said:
Here is another " How to " tutorial. What do you think James? Thanks
Click to expand...

yea, you are probably right. How do i go about that? Should i clean it up a little? Maybe take more pict's when i do the fronts? Never done a tutorial before. Memmer, i am only about 3 months old to the forum stuff.

Suggestions? Obe One:D respect, much respect.
 
MAXLLY

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
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San Diego
SmokeShow said:
Beautiful. :cool2: Thanks.. :hug:


One quick question... could you lay out and drill from the "back" of the rotor so the chuck doesn't hit the e-brake hub? If this is acceptable, I'd assume the typical "trick" of having something directly under the other side to drill into in order to reduce burring would be wise????

and I agree with Mike, this would be a great addition to the DIY area. ;)
Click to expand...

I didn't intend a tutorial, drilling from the backside is tough it tries to rock with bit pressure. Burrs aren't an isue, i left out the countersink part....my bad.

I'll delete these and whip up a tutorial, for review.:)
 
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MAXLLY

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
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San Diego
The saga continues....

I was going back through my pictures/videos after New York and noticed that my front wheels are pigeon toe'd, even though i have tie rod braces (thanks Kat).

So i replaced them with these MONSTERS. I can't get the camera to link today so i attached an internet picture. These tie rods are twice the size of the stockers in every respect, beefed to the max and surely overkill.

I'll post a comparison picture in a day or so until then, the rod is 3/4" thick versus the stocker at roughly 1/2". The spindle end is easy double the thickness. Installation was simple, but you'll need a 2" open end or a big a** crescent to get 80 lbs on them.

Bottom line, the stockers can't hold a candle to these.
 
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SmokeShow

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
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Lawrenceburg, KY
do you have cognito braces? others have reported that more than just sleeves are needed to keep the tires straight on some trucks. maybe even an upgraded centerlink as it is my understanding the toe-in is from the centerlink rotating under pressure (sometimes due to play in the pitman/idler which why I mentioned the cognito braces).


c-ya
 
MAXLLY

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
1,063
0
0
San Diego
SmokeShow said:
do you have cognito braces? others have reported that more than just sleeves are needed to keep the tires straight on some trucks. maybe even an upgraded centerlink as it is my understanding the toe-in is from the centerlink rotating under pressure (sometimes due to play in the pitman/idler which why I mentioned the cognito braces).
c-ya
Click to expand...

Yes Sir, I installed the braces several months ago. I considered the straight centerlink until i watched a truck that had one try and park, frankly parking one of these beasts is already difficult for those that aren't accustomed. Adding the straight link appeared to cut down turning radius SEVERELY, I watched a truck that had one try and manuever through a large parking lot and still had to stop and 3 point to make the turns. JMHO.:)
 
MAXLLY

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
1,063
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0
San Diego
MaxFarmer said:
How much did those cost you?
Click to expand...

A better deal may be available, i paid $230. They are made by Cognito and i purchased them from NorCal because they had 'em sitting on a shelf and ready to ship. In fact i recieved them the day after i ordered them, it was very nice. What the vendor claimed was going to happen was exactly what transpired. :)

Hope this helps you.
 
SmokeShow

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
6,818
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Lawrenceburg, KY
MAXLLY said:
Yes Sir, I installed the braces several months ago. I considered the straight centerlink until i watched a truck that had one try and park, frankly parking one of these beasts is already difficult for those that aren't accustomed. Adding the straight link appeared to cut down turning radius SEVERELY, I watched a truck that had one try and manuever through a large parking lot and still had to stop and 3 point to make the turns. JMHO.:)
Click to expand...

perhaps a centerlink brace similar to what Michael Tomac has illustrated on his website may also help stiffen up the stock centerlink while maintaining the stock turning radius. Something is still giving (imo it's the centerlink rotating for one reason or another) in your setup and I have my doubts that it's the tierods if they have sleeves. i suppose the tierod ends could have play in them though for which you will be correcting with these ne pieces - which look killer if I might add. :cool2:

I'm not trying to negate your purchase but rather offering up some other possibilities to perhaps check out in your quest to fix the issue at hand - toe-in while racing.


C-ya
 
MAXLLY

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
1,063
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San Diego
SmokeShow said:
perhaps a centerlink brace similar to what Michael Tomac has illustrated on his website may also help stiffen up the stock centerlink while maintaining the stock turning radius. Something is still giving (imo it's the centerlink rotating for one reason or another) in your setup and I have my doubts that it's the tierods if they have sleeves. i suppose the tierod ends could have play in them though for which you will be correcting with these ne pieces - which look killer if I might add. :cool2:

I'm not trying to negate your purchase but rather offering up some other possibilities to perhaps check out in your quest to fix the issue at hand - toe-in while racing.
C-ya
Click to expand...

Not taking negative at all, I am grateful for the input. I hope to be able to return the favor to Salad Guys that have helped through this process.:)

I searched for Tomac Racing and Michael Tomac etc couldn't find the site perhaps his site addy is over on the dark site? (DP) Kidding BTW
 
SmokeShow

SmokeShow

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2006
6,818
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Lawrenceburg, KY
http:\\www.duramaxracing.com sorry, that's not even remotely close to his name. The pics are nearly at the bottom of his page. I believe member wildchild on here also has done this mod. Perhaps he can chime in with some guidance on exactly how to set them up in case you can't tell by the pictures.


C-ya
 
WolfLMM

WolfLMM

Making Chips
Nov 21, 2006
4,005
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AL
Why is it that we can't build a stronger center link, yet holds the factory size?
 
MAXLLY

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
1,063
0
0
San Diego
WolfLLY said:
Why is it that we can't build a stronger center link, yet holds the factory size?
Click to expand...

If i understand the question, I think it's been done and is available for mass consumption. Pat and Kat sell 'em. It's a straight stainless bar IIRC.
 
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