Yep Im a puller, I think im going to go for that charger as well with my build. Ws hoping for twins but havent heard much on nathans S300 twin setup progress, and feel a 42 is just too big.
Beginning of the end?
- Thread starter MAXLLY
- Start date
Congrats man and good luck!
Mike and Pat have some time with the 42 tuning.
As for the build... you prolly know this already. Hang on to your wallet it's very pricey at this point, if you can wait, wait. I think the diesel parts will come down in price soon. the market has to get competitive very soon, people will start to compete for sales.
It'll take 20k +/- to do the whole shabang.
Oh My wallets well aware of that i think im leaving the heads till later on, ill do the bottom end first, then charger, then heads.
i think im leaving the heads till later on, ill do the bottom end first, then charger, then heads.Oh My wallets well aware of that
Cool Man, again good luck.
Anything i can do let me know. I'm just getting back into this stuff so my info is kinda hit and miss at this point, but I'm always willing to help a fellow Rat Racer.
Congrats man and good luck!
Mike and Pat have some time with the 42 tuning.
As for the build... you prolly know this already. Hang on to your wallet it's very pricey at this point, if you can wait, wait. I think the diesel parts will come down in price soon. the market has to get competitive very soon, people will start to compete for sales.
It'll take 20k +/- to do the whole shabang.
So what kind of times are you hoping for at the end of this project
So what kind of times are you hoping for at the end of this project
Hmmm? I spose I'd be happy with high 11's at the track, If i only street drove the truck mid 12's is plenty fast. I'm not really looking at this project in those terms. This phase is simply the foundation, kinda like your houses! Gotta build it and buy it right to make any money consistantly.
I am looking more at the foundation type issues. What can i do to keep the pistons in one peice? What can i do to allow me to drive the vehicle every day and go fast with a tune and tire change? What assembly do i need to provide in an effort to flip a good 60'?
My thinking is if i "sweat" these things the rest will fall into place.
Sounds like you have thought this thru, I'd like to see pics of the completed 4 link when you get a chance....
1.3? 60's.
I'll figure out the rest from there.
A foundation to answer your question, as more parts/twin manufactures come to sale I'll buy one of those. The core of this motor will be complete and hopefully able to stand up for awhile.
It's an evolutionary process. Just today i figured i was going to have to totally scrap the entire fuel supply on top the motor...lines/rails/returns.
I try and work on it every day but it's tough.
what exactly is in the way?
The fuel rail, return line, intake plenum, fender well, fire wall.... what's not in the way between the 4 link and the core support? I could bury 4 bodies between the rear bumper and the rear axle but i need room forward!
Last week during mock up i got tired of working around all the poo and we decided to simply take the cab off and do it right. Needless to say it's a serious effort now. Frame is rolling cab is in the air.
This project accidently turned into a bed off... then clip off... now a cab off/frame off resto race project. The scrap pile in the corner weighs over 400 lbs and the seats are still in the cab.
Happy New Year!
I've taken pictures through the entire process and will submit them later in summary. Mike (New 2 LB7), My Bro' Jason (MAC Racing) have been instrumental in this build, you will see some neat new stuff that hasn't been done yet. Sorry i need to keep some of it under wraps until it's complete and know it works. Just trying to save some brain damage and embarrasment.
As well it's tough to take my gloves off, snap a photo and return to work! I only get about 22-26 hours a weekend to work on it, i gotta make 'em all count in production.Happy New Year!
I've taken pictures through the entire process and will submit them later in summary. Mike (New 2 LB7), My Bro' Jason (MAC Racing) have been instrumental in this build, you will see some neat new stuff that hasn't been done yet. Sorry i need to keep some of it under wraps until it's complete and know it works. Just trying to save some brain damage and embarrasment.
Happy New Year!
typo correction emBAREASSment.
new picture 4 link pre paint
here is a picture of the 4 link pre paint.
It's well.... WAY beefed. IMHO the converters are going to get better and better and we may even do a manual in an effort to get out of the hole as quick as we can. Time will tell.
See that #4 cable on the floor? (top LH corner) Stout battery cable huh! Lose 400+ lbs you are gonna be able to put some back on her.
Happy New Year!
BTW, the panard bar is straight! It's the camera angle.
here is a picture of the 4 link pre paint.
It's well.... WAY beefed. IMHO the converters are going to get better and better and we may even do a manual in an effort to get out of the hole as quick as we can. Time will tell.
See that #4 cable on the floor? (top LH corner) Stout battery cable huh! Lose 400+ lbs you are gonna be able to put some back on her.
Happy New Year!
BTW, the panard bar is straight! It's the camera angle.
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New pict's, sorry been busy!
In my notes from things i wanted to make better, I had brakes. This is a cake improvement, $10 for drill bits, an hour laying out clock, locating fins and the rest is on a drill press. I did the back 2 (after layout) in less than an hour.
My bro did this on my BMW several years ago... same rotor i use today. They work MUCH better. Save the $150+/- per rotor?, save the $ do it yourself and spend the money on a really good brake pad.
What i noticed on my other cars/trucks with drilling is better wet and high speed stopping. The pad (a good pad) will help this as well as get a better bite at the line and when hot.
In my truck (1) 100 mph to 0 stop and the brakes are fading. On the 2nd stop they smell like a runaway semi. This will fix the problem and still fit a 16" rim allowing for a decent selection of slicks and backsets.
Savings... over $6000 (IIRC) if you bought new "top shelf" rotors, pads and calipers for all four corners.
In my notes from things i wanted to make better, I had brakes. This is a cake improvement, $10 for drill bits, an hour laying out clock, locating fins and the rest is on a drill press. I did the back 2 (after layout) in less than an hour.
My bro did this on my BMW several years ago... same rotor i use today. They work MUCH better. Save the $150+/- per rotor?, save the $ do it yourself and spend the money on a really good brake pad.
What i noticed on my other cars/trucks with drilling is better wet and high speed stopping. The pad (a good pad) will help this as well as get a better bite at the line and when hot.
In my truck (1) 100 mph to 0 stop and the brakes are fading. On the 2nd stop they smell like a runaway semi. This will fix the problem and still fit a 16" rim allowing for a decent selection of slicks and backsets.
Savings... over $6000 (IIRC) if you bought new "top shelf" rotors, pads and calipers for all four corners.
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