5K Budget Long Block Suggestions
- Thread starter K1SSRSS
- Start date
Exactly. And the OP is only looking for 700hp. I'm sure he won't be spraying a large single either
oke:
Exactly. And the OP is only looking for 700hp. I'm sure he won't be spraying a large single either
till he wants more :roflmao:
they ALWAYS want more:angel:
True, but it's hard for me to tell over the internet how easy some people give in to peer pressure
Thanks guys for all the input, new rods and full studs are first on the list, I'll key the crank and cam myself. Kinda leaning toward new pistons since I know I'll want to turn it up down the road. Wasn't considering a billet crank, but what kind of HP are you guys seeing the lb7 cranks hold?
I'll also rebuild the heads, but that's to biggie either since I can do that myself.
I'll also rebuild the heads, but that's to biggie either since I can do that myself.
Crank is a crap shoot. Some don't hold stock power, some hold 1500hp. Adding a crank will for sure put you well outside the 5k range
We use mahle race cast Pistons in the kit above. The finger piston is the same piston when they start life as a blank. Fingers machines in his oval bowl vs majors larger round bowl. 3,845 with normal race cast or 4,570 with fingers oval Pistons.
We also offer this kit with Carrillo rods in it. 4,495 with race cast and 5,220 with fingers oval. It's best to start with a fresh bore on a higher Milage block.
We can offer bundles with a new Lbz block with all the machine work done ready for final hone to Pistons.
There's many options available we offer wagler rods and other parts but it all depends on the end users budget.
Get pistons if you can. My truck has been at 700hp for 5 years and never gets turned down. It has the basic Mahle race cast.
I opted to reuse my stock lb7 pistons, my engine had 145k on it, and was totally stock, I sent then to socal diesel had then delipped and shaved, threw them back in. They c worked great for me and held up to 15k miles of beating the crap out of them, lots of spray and lots of EGT.
You have to ask yourself how much risk you're willing to accept. Yes some guys have gotten away at 700 hp w/ lbz rods and cut lb7 pistons but some have also had them fail. They can live forever if you detune the low end but where's the fun in that? If I were to do a budget build I would do the following which will likely come in around 6k w/o machine work.
Plus have head and block checked out and whatever machine work is necessary. I would also try and stretch the budget a bit to include MA pushrods and new valve springs. This not only minimizes/eliminates most risk but gives you room to grow.
I haven't seen any mention of what you have done to your trans, you don't want to blow your budget bulletproofing the motor only to have your trans crap out and have no money left to build it.
That's my .02 for what it's worth
- Fingers cast oval bowl pistons
- The cheapest of Carrillo, Manley, crower, or Wagler rods
- Head studs
- Main studs
- Clevite H bearings
- Oem cam bearings
- Key crank, cam, oil pump
- Pinned water pump
- Dowel mains
- Align hone
Plus have head and block checked out and whatever machine work is necessary. I would also try and stretch the budget a bit to include MA pushrods and new valve springs. This not only minimizes/eliminates most risk but gives you room to grow.
I haven't seen any mention of what you have done to your trans, you don't want to blow your budget bulletproofing the motor only to have your trans crap out and have no money left to build it.
That's my .02 for what it's worth
Concerning the dowel pin idea: Considering the subject(budget builds), i think that could be money saved. We're currently dealing with main cap walk(slightly) using studs and billet main caps. Engine is either 1300fwhp or 1500fwhp, depending on which rule package we run. Bearings are all fine. When i saw the evidence of the caps walking, i talked with several people. Including Jeremy Wagler, who said you could dowel them but that doesnt solve the issue from what he's seen. If your concern is main cap walk, a girdle is much better money spent. Basically, if we'd quit running the higher power class, we'd wouldn't have any problems.
If a guy is only aiming for 700 hp, especially a 'budget' build, you def are spending money you dont have to going with billet caps, girdle, and/or dowels.