4 Linked Duramax Thread

[TheBac]

How much distance do you have between the crossmember and the driveshaft? Is there enough that if the rear squats youstill have clearance? I cant tell from the eagle-eye pics.

So far so good, though Trent. Keep at it. You sure have a lot of gumption....more than most people.

 

[TrentNell]

How much distance do you have between the crossmember and the driveshaft? Is there enough that if the rear squats youstill have clearance? I cant tell from the eagle-eye pics.

So far so good, though Trent. Keep at it. You sure have a lot of gumption....more than most people.

Good eye Tom ,

There is about 4 inches , its a little closer than i thought it would be, it would be fine if i wasnt lowering it 3-4" more than its sitting right now in the pic , it will get notched and then used in conjuction with a removable bracket as a drive shaft hoop .

 

[RodZZilla]

Thats big


You should make a loop like this trent
http://chassisengineering.com/enlargephoto.asp?ProductId=1048

When I tubbed my 66 C10, I found a 1x3 Oval Hoop and mounted it in the crossmember. I think I got it from S&W or Chris Alston.

 

[TheBac]

There is about 4 inches , its a little closer than i thought it would be, it would be fine if i wasnt lowering it 3-4" more than its sitting right now in the pic , it will get notched and then used in conjuction with a removable bracket as a drive shaft hoop .

Ok good. Will you then have to reinforce the crossmember due to the notch (which I assume will be about half the c-members width)??

Im impressed.

 

[TrentNell]

Ok good. Will you then have to reinforce the crossmember due to the notch (which I assume will be about half the c-members width)??

Im impressed.

I dont think so, most the force will be on the outer ends of the cross memeber , but it will likely get boxed in just for cosmetics and just in case of a streingth issue .

 

[1lowdiesel]

trent i would highly suggest running some tubing from the back of that x member to the inside of the frame rails then boxing in around that.

also, like mike said you need to wrap those axle brackets. w/ as much power as you have you will twist those tabs even if you plate the backside.

personally i would either build new ones that have a panhard bracket built into them. or just cut some new ones to go on the backside and extend them to wrap next to the ones you already have on there. if you knwo what i mean.

that front x member is a beast!

 

[TrentNell]

trent i would highly suggest running some tubing from the back of that x member to the inside of the frame rails then boxing in around that.

also, like mike said you need to wrap those axle brackets. w/ as much power as you have you will twist those tabs even if you plate the backside.

personally i would either build new ones that have a panhard bracket built into them. or just cut some new ones to go on the backside and extend them to wrap next to the ones you already have on there. if you knwo what i mean.

that front x member is a beast!

I will be wraping the back side of the axle brackets , I have some plans already in place for braces for the x-member , and pan hard bar . Keep the sugestions coming :hug: , once its further along i will post up some pics and tell me what you think . I really dont think the cross memeber needs any aditional bracing but decided when i first designed it to through some tubing braces in there just to be safe and have it over built a touch , I also think the axle brackets would hold fine too but am going to wrap the whole axle just for safety purposes .

 

[1lowdiesel]

i agree having it over built a bit does add to the comfort level when you're doing 10s. that x member is stout, no doubt, but it does make the frame a bit weaker to the left and right of where you are welding it in on the frame.

yea wrap the brackets and plate the backside of them too. 1/4" is plenty strong enough for that.

also are you going to have someone mig it all up when you are ready?

 

[TrentNell]

i agree having it over built a bit does add to the comfort level when you're doing 10s. that x member is stout, no doubt, but it does make the frame a bit weaker to the left and right of where you are welding it in on the frame.

yea wrap the brackets and plate the backside of them too. 1/4" is plenty strong enough for that.

also are you going to have someone mig it all up when you are ready?

Using the Arc welder with 7018 rod or 7014 .

 

[maxthis]

I may have missed it but what are you going to do for bedsides now? none, or build some fiberglass or use your old ones?...looking good though! I bet it will be worth your effort!:thumb:

 

[TrentNell]

I may have missed it but what are you going to do for bedsides now? none, or build some fiberglass or use your old ones?...looking good though! I bet it will be worth your effort!:thumb:

I am using the sheet metal bedsides i pulled off the bed , just the outer skins and will build some brakets to hang them , the roll pan , and the outer tailgate skin, it will still apear the have the full bed in tact , just hollow in the middle .

 

[1lowdiesel]

^ ha have fun with that. my bed sides will flex when doing a burnout even with the new inner walls and a shit ton of bracing.

the inner wheel wells that attach the sides to the bed floor add alot of rigidity to the bed sides. if you can try and keep them somehow.

look into grant customs they make a full skin and roll pan combo. that would save you a bunch of weight and save alot of time.

 

[TrentNell]

^ ha have fun with that. my bed sides will flex when doing a burnout even with the new inner walls and a shit ton of bracing.

the inner wheel wells that attach the sides to the bed floor add alot of rigidity to the bed sides. if you can try and keep them somehow.

look into grant customs they make a full skin and roll pan combo. that would save you a bunch of weight and save alot of time.

Does it ripple the sheet metal or can you just see it moving ? If it becomes a problem i will just go to fiberglass bedsides . I have already priced them just trying to save a buck right now , I will check into the tailgate / roll pan skin combo , i looked for them but couldnt find the new body style .

 

[1lowdiesel]

it just moves, no creasing or nothing. i have a good idea of where i need to put more braces but it's a bitch.

here are a few combo's. imo the grant is the way to go.

http://www.fbirides.com/product.asp?idno=8390

http://grantkustoms.com/catalog/pro...d=521&osCsid=ad4b2200c29a03ad734e494f8a79f1ac

 

[TrentNell]

it just moves, no creasing or nothing. i have a good idea of where i need to put more braces but it's a bitch.

here are a few combo's. imo the grant is the way to go.

http://www.fbirides.com/product.asp?idno=8390

http://grantkustoms.com/catalog/pro...d=521&osCsid=ad4b2200c29a03ad734e494f8a79f1ac

Thanks for the links and the feed back/idea's :hug: , I dont care about a little moving on just a race truck , If i was D/D than ya it would drive me nuts .

 

[1lowdiesel]

here is one i finished up this morning before work (forward triangulated). you can see what i was talking about as far as bracing the front mount

 

[1lowdiesel]

any progress?

 

[TrentNell]

any progress?

Nope , had to put it on hold.......................... working on the motor at the moment and had a few side jobs last weekend , motor is the # 1 priority right now, and I have been using the 4link to fill in times that i am waiting on stuff . Plus i still havent recieved my bars yet but should see them this week . I doubt i will be back to the 4link for a few weeks because motor assembly starts this weekend hopefully .

 

[1lowdiesel]

cool deal. hey it's gotta be running first right lol.

 

[TrentNell]

Got my bars and Pan hard bar today ..................... finally ! They do look great , especially for what they cost .

here are a few pics , put a soda can next to one to show the size .