If it was a narrow journal crank I'd jump on it. But ya I'm with Kyle on this one, if guys were breaking billet stock replacements I don't see why these would be better. Think I'll stick with a stocker.
By my count it's the lb7's over lbz's by a hair, but nobody ever accused me of being a good mathematician;) but everyone knows that lmm's are obviously best because that's what's best for everyone:woott:
Make sure to post up some results once you have it back together, my new setup is going to be %100 identical to yours with the exception of 100 overs and would like to see some feedback.
It would be nice to see a slightly cheaper option for a narrow journal crank for those of us that aren't going for an all out build. Possibly forged narrow journal crank, that should cut down on costs I would assume? Correct me if I'm wrong.
I cut consistent 1.6-1.7 60's with my tuff country 6" t bar bolts gone 4 inch blocks and long bars On 33x12.5 toyo at2's. It was smooth from 0 to106mph with aftermarket front shaft. I realize 1000rwhp is gonna be a totally different animal, thus the reason I no longer have the lift. Good luck...
Might wanna have the machine shop dowel the mains to help with cap walk. Not that you should have issues with it at 700, but if you end up compounding that 68 You will more than likely be making north of 800.
Umm what? Hope your kidding, I was thinking about having my crank blessed before I wrap it in pillows and bubble gum for install... hoping the l5p crank lives up to the hype, it looks like it should.