Those look like aluminum electrolytic capacitors. Many types of electrolytic capacitors degrade over time, have a finite lifetime even when used within specs, and will vent just like your photo shows. Just find some with equivalent or higher voltage and temperature rating, same capacitance...
Yup - looks like an issue with +12v power on the right side. 6v is way low, and when you press the window up or down, it drops to zero with a load. Need to trace back until you find a good solid +12v (12-14v) on the orange wire. Could be a resistive contact in a connector. Power for the...
Door lock actuator power and grounds are different than the window motor circuits. However, the one common component between both is connector C396, the connector in the door hinge area which everything feeds through. Also check for broken wires inside the rubber boot, as a previous poster...
Using a multimeter (or test lamp), find a good ground for the negative lead. Measure the voltage on each of the 8 pins in 3 different states: rear window switch in center position, in up position, then in down position. Make a table and write down the values. Do this for the left side...
Whoops, I assumed that from the original description, thanks for clarifying. Since you've swapped or replaced the most likely things, I would suggest backprobing all the signals on the rear window switch connector while trying to move window up/down on the right and compare each signal to what...
The right rear window functions are commanded from the drivers door module via the BCM. Check those 3 signals (see schematic above) on pins B, C, D, of the 8 position right rear switch connector. Compare to the left side rear door. Perhaps the lockout signal from the BCM is shorted or open...
The right rear window shares a common +12v power source with the right front, through a 25A circuit breaker. The master switch on the driver's door talks to the right rear window switch via signals from the BCM. Since this path isn't working either, and you've already replaced the window...
Possible fried TCM? If memory serves, touching the heat sink case of the TCM to +12v or ground could cause traces internally to burn up. Given the radiator repair, I'm assuming the TCM was moved around, possibly touching something accidentally?
Possibly a flaky fuel pressure sensor? The ECM reads the output of this sensor to command the FPR to command the desired value.
However, a P0090 would say probably not. P0090 sets when the control current from the ECM to the FPR is outside of the range between 50mA and 1600mA. Check for...
Hey guys
You've probably all seen the news by now about Hurricane Laura. Lake Charles, LA where PPEI is located was directly in the eye of the hurricane as it made landfall. Hoping Kory and his crew + families all got out ahead of time and aren't too impacted by storm damage and other...
Interesting. Your passlock sensor voltage is in range and there's a valid code so it would seem logical to look elsewhere.
Do the same thing, rotate to crank and release to ON position before vehicle starts, scan for DTCs. Look for ECM DTCs (including history DTCs) and BCM DTCs (also take a...
Ok, here's something from the FSM. Connect your Tech2. Turn the truck ON, momentarily rotate the ignition switch to the START position but let it return to ON before the truck can start. Scan the BCM for DTCs. Check the Passlock Data Voltage, as in the screenshot above, needs to fall...