Not getting power to rear passenger window

[tkerb92]

I just picked up a 2007 Silverado Classic crew cab long bed. While driving home I noticed the rear passenger window wouldn't go down, all other windows work fine. I assumed it was the regulator so I replaced that and still nothing. Neither the master switch on the drivers door or the switch on the rear passenger door work. So I tested for power and when I press the switch, it reads zero.. I tested my driver side also to make sure I was testing correctly and got 12v.
any ideas here of where to start? I checked some fuses but not 100% sure which one is specifically for that window. every fuse I did check was fine.
Thanks in advance for any help

 

[TheBac]

Im assuming when you said you tested the drivers side, you meant the drivers door switch? If the output from that switch to that window circuit was 12v, then it should be the individual window switch.

 

[dndj]

The right rear window shares a common +12v power source with the right front, through a 25A circuit breaker. The master switch on the driver's door talks to the right rear window switch via signals from the BCM. Since this path isn't working either, and you've already replaced the window regulator/motor, I would say you need to replace your right rear window switch. There are relays inside that power the window motor in forward and reverse. Relay contacts can and do go bad over time.

The window motor is a simple 2 wire affair with +12v on one side and ground on the other. The relay logic in the right rear window switch reverses this polarity for motor drive in the up/down direction.

Schematic attached.

 

[tkerb92]

Im assuming when you said you tested the drivers side, you meant the drivers door switch? If the output from that switch to that window circuit was 12v, then it should be the individual window switch.

No I tested the rear driver side and got 12v. I guess I should test the master switch and see if if it gets power to it then.

 

[tkerb92]

The right rear window shares a common +12v power source with the right front, through a 25A circuit breaker. The master switch on the driver's door talks to the right rear window switch via signals from the BCM. Since this path isn't working either, and you've already replaced the window regulator/motor, I would say you need to replace your right rear window switch. There are relays inside that power the window motor in forward and reverse. Relay contacts can and do go bad over time.

The window motor is a simple 2 wire affair with +12v on one side and ground on the other. The relay logic in the right rear window switch reverses this polarity for motor drive in the up/down direction.

Schematic attached.

Thanks for the reply
I will swap the switch with the rear driver side and see if that works then.

 

[dndj]

Good idea - same connector pinout in the left vs. right rear. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[tkerb92]

I swapped them and no luck.
Also I hooked the passenger side one on the driver side and the switch does work so both switches are good

 

[TheBac]

Then its probably in the drivers door module. Need to test the outputs from that.....

 

[dndj]

Then its probably in the drivers door module. Need to test the outputs from that.....

The right rear window functions are commanded from the drivers door module via the BCM. Check those 3 signals (see schematic above) on pins B, C, D, of the 8 position right rear switch connector. Compare to the left side rear door. Perhaps the lockout signal from the BCM is shorted or open?

When the window lockout switch is ON, does it allow the windows up, but not down? The OP said the window would go up but not down.

 

[tkerb92]

The right rear window functions are commanded from the drivers door module via the BCM. Check those 3 signals (see schematic above) on pins B, C, D, of the 8 position right rear switch connector. Compare to the left side rear door. Perhaps the lockout signal from the BCM is shorted or open?

When the window lockout switch is ON, does it allow the windows up, but not down? The OP said the window would go up but not down.

The window wouldn’t go up or down. I found that out because the new regulator was partially down when I installed. I will have to wait to do anymore testing because I just dropped it off for inspection.

 

[dndj]

The window wouldn’t go up or down. I found that out because the new regulator was partially down when I installed. I will have to wait to do anymore testing because I just dropped it off for inspection.

Whoops, I assumed that from the original description, thanks for clarifying. Since you've swapped or replaced the most likely things, I would suggest backprobing all the signals on the rear window switch connector while trying to move window up/down on the right and compare each signal to what happens on the left. Also there's possibility of a bad or missing ground. The right rear door window motor control uses a different ground than the left rear or front doors. It's G306 and supposedly on the inside of the passenger side B pillar. If this ground is disconnected, the RR door courtesy light won't work either.

I uploaded a higher res picture of the schematic above, it was kind of small and hard to read.

 

[mopar3]

It is always possible to have broken wires in the door hinge area. Check inside the rubber boots at the drivers door and the one that doesn't work.

 

[tkerb92]

Whoops, I assumed that from the original description, thanks for clarifying. Since you've swapped or replaced the most likely things, I would suggest backprobing all the signals on the rear window switch connector while trying to move window up/down on the right and compare each signal to what happens on the left. Also there's possibility of a bad or missing ground. The right rear door window motor control uses a different ground than the left rear or front doors. It's G306 and supposedly on the inside of the passenger side B pillar. If this ground is disconnected, the RR door courtesy light won't work either.

I uploaded a higher res picture of the schematic above, it was kind of small and hard to read.

Thanks again for the quick responses.
I’m not very familiar with tracing down wiring issues. What exactly would I be doing with the multimeter on the back of the switch. I usually don’t dig much into electrical problems in cars so I’m a little lost here

 

[dndj]

Thanks again for the quick responses.
I’m not very familiar with tracing down wiring issues. What exactly would I be doing with the multimeter on the back of the switch. I usually don’t dig much into electrical problems in cars so I’m a little lost here

Using a multimeter (or test lamp), find a good ground for the negative lead. Measure the voltage on each of the 8 pins in 3 different states: rear window switch in center position, in up position, then in down position. Make a table and write down the values. Do this for the left side (known good), the right side, and compare the two.

 

[dndj]

It is always possible to have broken wires in the door hinge area. Check inside the rubber boots at the drivers door and the one that doesn't work.

Yup. Just fixed my son's 2005 Dodge 2500 with this exact issue.

 

[tkerb92]

Using a multimeter (or test lamp), find a good ground for the negative lead. Measure the voltage on each of the 8 pins in 3 different states: rear window switch in center position, in up position, then in down position. Make a table and write down the values. Do this for the left side (known good), the right side, and compare the two.

Thanks, that’s kinda what I thought but just wanted to verify. I’ll do that tomorrow and let you know what I find

 

[1FastBrick]

It is always possible to have broken wires in the door hinge area. Check inside the rubber boots at the drivers door and the one that doesn't work.

This area should not be overlooked on the rear doors. I have seen a few Crew Cabs develop this issue with broken wires in the door harness due to the way the door harness folds up on the rear doors to meet the B pillar.

 

[tkerb92]

I just got the truck back gone so I’ll have to wait till tomorrow to dig into it.
I will have to check in the door jam for broken wires.
Also I don’t know if this could be related but my passenger side power mirror does not work at all, and I have 2 air bag codes(b0017 and b0018) both are passenger side codes.
If they don’t seem related, they can be ignored, I’m not worried about them just curious if it could have any common grounds or something

 

[tkerb92]

Also, I just realized the power lock doesn’t work on that door either. Don’t know why I haven’t checked that before but I’m assuming that’s definitely related

 

[dndj]

Door lock actuator power and grounds are different than the window motor circuits. However, the one common component between both is connector C396, the connector in the door hinge area which everything feeds through. Also check for broken wires inside the rubber boot, as a previous poster said. Keep in mind, that the wires can break internally from flexing at the hinge point while the insulation stays intact. Only way to verify connection is to use an ohm meter. Also make sure that the door locks don't suddenly start working when the door is open. Broken wires can make connection when flexed the right direction sometimes.