Yeah but I don't blame him for trying. He has a formula for success that works. Just wish I knew it was that low all along so I could have planned the other parts accordingly. Like 300% more injector and a manual.
Sorry for the derail OP.
Duramaxzak 2.6 pulling truck build
- Thread starter duramaxzak
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Yeah but I don't blame him for trying. He has a formula for success that works. Just wish I knew it was that low all along so I could have planned the other parts accordingly. Like 300% more injector and a manual.
Sorry for the derail OP.
No problem! That's how we learn what works and does not work from people sharing there experience's good and bad!
I talked to them about a cam and engine, he wanted me to go super low compression too.
I have (4) 16" primaries, plus collector volume, and 3" tubes to the turbo inlet... Didn't hurt spool at all from old 2" ProFab log manifolds and 2.25" up pipes....
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The holnaider brothers could win with a cozy coupe, so your argument is not applicable in this scenario muffy.:rofl:
An auto wouldn't spool the turbo I have anyways, but you send me the 2.6" charger and I'll put an Allison in the truck and spool it...
ANY t6 charger has the same area of hole diameters going into the turbine inlet, no matter how much volume you have in between, so at 3,000 rpm on a stall converter the exhaust gases will be hitting the turbine wheel at the same velocity.
I'm 15.2:1 compression and with my cam, I'm more than confident I could make it spool, I know with the Goerend converter of my choice I could get 3200 rpm with good brakes. Can and heads have FAR more effect on spool than exhaust length or volume, length can hurt you from heat(energy) loss though...
I'm not here to argue if you can spool it or not, just offering my experiences and trying to help the OP.
Looking good. One nice thing about the short truck is you can have that much more weight up front.
That's about the only advantage, but don't think it makes up for the shorter wheelbase.
Do you think you will get this all done for this season or are you looking at doing a little now, then the rest for next season?
Probably should consider trussing the rear end while you weld er up. It will bend the axle tubes up and forward without them. I'll be interested to find out how the Yukon brand ring/pinion hold up. We have junked two different sets of AAM 3.42's, because the gearmesh is so strong on that ratio the pinion shears off and the ring gear sends it through the case. Which junks the housing along with everything else.
I have install a LPW rear diff cover with truss kit like the one pictured and will also be welding the tube's to the housing.
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Can't speak for the 3.42 gearset. But there wasn't any noticeable difference in the 4.56's
Maybe you already mentioned this, but I can assume you will be running duals. If so, that bracing looks like it will work for the tubes, but the spindles are what you will need to watch out for.