Built motor break in

[custom8726]

Looking for suggestions on things to do both before I fire the engine for the first time tomorrow and also shortly down the line. I know the obvious things like double check connections, look for leaks, weird noises, etc.. Should I monitor anything with EFI during initial start up? I primed the oil lines for the new turbo, anything else in regards to that? How long are you guys waiting to really start running these things? I was thinking I would change the oil after the first 500 miles, does that seem about right? I had planned on firing this thing yesterday, but these dam motors have so many little odds and ends its taking forever The good news is the motor is back in the truck with all the accessory, turbo, transmission, etc, buttoned up. I just need to put the front clip back together, modify the exhaust for the new down pipe, change the tuning, add fluids, and I believe she should be running again tomorrow

 

[JoshH]

Look for leaks while the truck is warming up. Once it is up to temperature, go out and beat on it. You need cylinder pressure to force the rings into the cylinder walls so they seat properly. I wouldn't put your biggest race tune in it, but something around 450 to 500 HP should be alright. Good luck getting it fired up. :thumb:

 

[custom8726]

Look for leaks while the truck is warming up. Once it is up to temperature, go out and beat on it. You need cylinder pressure to force the rings into the cylinder walls so they seat properly. I wouldn't put your biggest race tune in it, but something around 450 to 500 HP should be alright. Good luck getting it fired up. :thumb:

Beat on it huh I guess if it was built right it should hold

 

[paint94979]

Beat on it huh I guess if it was built right it should hold

i'd go easy for the first 100 miles then beat the ever loving sh*t out of it

 

[JoshH]

i'd go easy for the first 100 miles then beat the ever loving sh*t out of it

I wouldn't wait.

If something isn't right, it is going to come apart regardless of how you drive it, and it won't fix itself if you drive it easy early on. The crank should be polished where the bearings are, so there's no need to worry about them. Any leaks should show up while it is warming up, so that one is covered. The only other thing you need to be concerned about is the rings, and the earlier you get them seated, the better. Just my :2cents:

 

[TrentNell]

You will get alot of different answers , I have heard everything from run it 5k before you put big power to it , and some say put the screw's to it right away . I let mine idle for several hours before driving, just did basic heat up cool down cycles to help seat the head gaskets a bit , and then took it out and loaded a decent sized tune ( not my biggest ) and started beating on it . where you are starting on an S300 you wont have near the worries i had .

 

[custom8726]

You will get alot of different answers , I have heard everything from run it 5k before you put big power to it , and some say put the screw's to it right away . I let mine idle for several hours before driving, just did basic heat up cool down cycles to help seat the head gaskets a bit , and then took it out and loaded a decent sized tune ( not my biggest ) and started beating on it . where you are starting on an S300 you wont have near the worries i had .

Yeah, it seems like I have been getting different answers everywhere I ask Lol:rofl: The engine shop that built my motor told me to not let it idle much at all and to just drive it like I normally would I think I am going to try and find some middle ground between running the sh!t out of it and letting it idle at this point, Maybe I'll let the wife drive it for a couple days

 

[jdlover1]

I was wondering the same thing on how to break in the stroker motor. My engine builder told me to let it warm up and check for leaks and then drive it normal. Hopefully I will have mine online tomorrow also.

 

[paint94979]

I was wondering the same thing on how to break in the stroker motor. My engine builder told me to let it warm up and check for leaks and then drive it normal. Hopefully I will have mine online tomorrow also.

that will be awesome

 

[custom8726]

I was wondering the same thing on how to break in the stroker motor. My engine builder told me to let it warm up and check for leaks and then drive it normal. Hopefully I will have mine online tomorrow also.

Good luck with everything, sounds like a sweet set-up:thumb:

 

[x MadMAX DIESEL]

Top fuel dragsters rebuild them and race them.

Enough said lol

 

[TheBac]

Congrats to both you and Wade for getting your trucks running. :thumb:

Ive always been taught what Josh and Trent said. Idle while checking for leaks, then let her have it like normal.

Give you a perfect example:

Dad was Airport Asst Manager. They got in two brand new 1971 Olds F85 4 doors for Authority cars. Everything exactly the same, including 350-2bbl motors/TH350 trans. Dad and another man took his car to a meeting in Mt Pleasant (70 miles away) right after they got the car. As Dad told me, they averaged 90-100mph there and back (talk about cool) and his car was driven hard all the time. His car was very quick with great all around power. The other car (Manager's car) was only used around the airport or on short trips around town and it was a total dog...they were that different. Dad drove both and could tell.
My Dad bought his car when they got new ones in 1976, and in 1980 I inherited it. I can vouch for how good that car ran. It had 120,000 miles on it when I sold it in 1983, and I had only changed the timing chain and water pump.

 

[maxaholic]

Top fuel dragsters rebuild them and race them.

Enough said lol

and then tear them back apart. Nuff said.

 

[duratothemax]

I put a couple hundred miles of normal driving, then put the screws to it. Never had one problem until Nick's piece of shit rods wanted out 15,000 miles later.

 

[Jared Duramax]

if it was my motor i would crank it up get oil pressure check for leaks then head to a sled pull and beat the piss out of it under extreme load:thumb:

i was always told that you need to break in a motor the way it will be used

 

[ripmf666]

I fired mine up let it warm up checked for leaks changed the oil right then. Then I went for a drive and changed the oil again. I would prime the motor before starting it. I beat on mine hard after 200 miles and was at the track running if it's going to break it will at low rpms just as fast.

 

[sweetdiesel]

My rings didnt seat untill i went to the track....After that they where seated but i had a fair amount of blow by untill i did that

Ive read about people that go to easy on the truck during break in and it can take 3 times as long to seat the rings as you get oil in the cylinder walls and the rings cant seat.....just something Ive read

As far as dirt bikes and sleds ive always drove it like i stole it

 

[Stingpuller]

Motor break in

You need to get it running check for leaks and the normal stuff and let it cool of a little. Then go for a drive and run it up in like 2nd gear to 3000 rpm and let off and let it coast back to idle. Then do the same a couple of times and it should be ready to rumble! Doig the under load the decell seats the rings and should(if they(machine shop) put the correct hone finish on the block should seat quickly). Jeff

 

[TheBac]

I fired mine up let it warm up checked for leaks changed the oil right then. Then I went for a drive and changed the oil again. I would prime the motor before starting it. I beat on mine hard after 200 miles and was at the track running if it's going to break it will at low rpms just as fast.

Ive been curious about this....just how do you pre-lube a Duramax? Is there some sort of pump to use, since there isnt a distributor shaft to spin?

 

[duratothemax]

Ive been curious about this....just how do you pre-lube a Duramax? Is there some sort of pump to use, since there isnt a distributor shaft to spin?

there is a special pre-luber tool, but I never bothered; lubed the crap out of everything with moly assembly lube, and then pulled the FICM fuse, cranked it for 5-7 seconds, waited 10 seconds, cranked it again, waited, etc...

that did a perfect job priming it because when I took it apart 15,000 miles later the bearings looked better than any 'factory assembled' motor I have taken apart