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A 3" pipe works well. You may be able to get away with a 3 1/2" with some tricky welding and stylish cutting on the pipe (like you said, grafting).
A bunch of stock LB7 turbo questions
- Thread starter TheBac
- Start date
A 3" pipe works well. You may be able to get away with a 3 1/2" with some tricky welding and stylish cutting on the pipe (like you said, grafting).
I did when I started this whole thing, but figured since tuning and other modifications have changed just in the last 6 months, let alone the last 2 years, Id give it a try. Im also cheap, and race on a budget.
I find all this pretty interesting. What can we do when we optimize what GM and Isuzu gave us to play with?
I've also thought from the start, "Why do I need a bigger turbo right now?" I'm pretty competitive with quite a few guys who have spent $1000s more than I have.
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Wasn't bashing:angel: If it makes you happy then thats enough, Right?
Exactly. Im not offended by your opinion, but I do need opinions like that to find where my ideas wont work. You actually help me save time and money.
My thought has been "what if the stocker could safely support 600rwhp on #2 alone?" Wouldnt that be crazy? In the past most people just automatically say you have to "go bigger" for the turbo after a certain point..usually seems to be 500 or so.
In reality most people dont have the budget for a bigger turbo. What if we find a lower-cost way for the "budget racer", people like me?? Like I said, this may all be for naught, but at least Im gonna give it a try. Its not costing anything to think or to toss out ideas.
I recently found oval tubing available in 3-1/2 and 4" widths. This gives me some more ideas for the downpipe. Im in the process of fleshing out these ideas to see if they're even feasible. Like I said, Im no fabricator. I just think this stuff up. It takes other people with the appropriate skills to make it happen.
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Hey...what about something like this for the downpipe?
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...OD&Product_Code=ATP-MDP-002&Category_Code=MDP
When a pipe has a "0" leg, does that mean the pipe doesnt protrude from the bend other than to simply straighten out?
Among other sites, this one has oval tubing. man o man, 304 is expensive.
http://www.burnsstainless.com/OvalTubing/ovaltubing.html
Better site for oval:
https://www.drgas.net/catalog.php?catid=3
Heres another idea: Offset tubing http://store.racing-solutions.org/oflshtu.html
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...OD&Product_Code=ATP-MDP-002&Category_Code=MDP
When a pipe has a "0" leg, does that mean the pipe doesnt protrude from the bend other than to simply straighten out?
Among other sites, this one has oval tubing. man o man, 304 is expensive.
http://www.burnsstainless.com/OvalTubing/ovaltubing.html
Better site for oval:
https://www.drgas.net/catalog.php?catid=3
Heres another idea: Offset tubing http://store.racing-solutions.org/oflshtu.html
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Downpipe update.....
I think I've figured out a nice design for a 3.5" downpipe, but have to get a metal-cutting blade for my chop saw first. Takes too long to cut pipe with my cut-off wheel. I think this is going to work....
Also, I emailed Crucial Racing earlier this week about price and availability of their port/polish/coating service for our turbos. My email and their reply:
So now I'm debating doing this for later in the year.
I think I've figured out a nice design for a 3.5" downpipe, but have to get a metal-cutting blade for my chop saw first. Takes too long to cut pipe with my cut-off wheel. I think this is going to work....
Also, I emailed Crucial Racing earlier this week about price and availability of their port/polish/coating service for our turbos. My email and their reply:
Thomas --
We can certainly do it, as we've done many diesel turbos in the past.
Typically not for performance applications as much as for people who put
many miles on their trucks and want to get some more efficiency out of it.
And we do see increases in power and gas mileage with this work, and also
increases in the usable powerband. On a gas engine, when we P&P&C the turbo
it is typical for the turbo to be capable of a couple more psi of boost in
its peak rpm range and then they usually don't taper off as much as the car
approaches redline by a couple of psi. It certainly makes power on gas cars
and the turbos also spool up faster and respond quicker. But gas cars have a
much wider powerband so tapering off as you approach redline is an issue
whereas I'm not sure if it would necessarily apply on a diesel truck.
I'd love to do it and see what kind of results you get though! My P&P guy
has 30+ years of experience doing turbos and can definitely get as much
efficiency as possible out of yours. I honestly don't know if it will
translate into a big difference on the track or if it'll just be something
you notice more in daily driving with better response and better gas
mileage... or both... I don't believe we've done a diesel turbo for
performance stuff.
Anyway, normally the service would be $300 on a turbo that size. We'll do
$250 (+ return shipping expense) for you if you report back to us afterwards
to let us know what kind of results you see! It's full P&P of both the
turbine housing and compressor housing, plus thermal barrier coating on the
turbine housing and thermal dispersant coating on the compressor housing.
The turbo ends up jet black and pretty sexy, with a true bump in efficiency
Jeremy
So now I'm debating doing this for later in the year.
Have to go back and cut 2" off the length.
Thought it would be ok, but its not...too close to the elbow to work. Found I dont have to use a Vband after all....a 3-1/2 to 4" adapter will work just fine. Couple of band clamps and its done. Just have to find time (and interest) to finish the front pipe up.
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ppe bost valve got me thinkin on what it does to the exhaust side of the turbo since it affects the wastegate if it increases drive pressure or not.
who here has a DP gauge and has a stock b7 turbo
who here has a DP gauge and has a stock b7 turbo
i would be interested to know myself . i know on my S300 the gate only slightly affects D/P it takes a really loose setting to see a drop in D/P .
thats crazy , when you put it back together , measure drive pressure ........ i would love to know what it is . only reason i can think of for them to be so high, def cant be a shortage of air .
seems like it kinda would increase the DP since the pressure use to pop the wastegate is being slowly relieved by the hole thats roughly the same size that the air has to go in.