If it isn't a dd, Id use the GM sealant and try to run it til it goes or you take it apart to fix the runners.
Whose got an Epr y birdge?
- Thread starter x MadMAX DIESEL
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He's doing well for himself again and has moved on so I'm not suprised to hear that.
I'm sure he is. Meanwhile my truck is still in the shop just fixing the sh!tty work that was done. This thread is just a sample of what my whole truck looked like when I got it back from him. $20,000 down the tube. Sorry for cluttering up the thread. I'm done.
Sorry to hear that. To the op I wouldn't trust that sealing with the factory gasket and would never just use gasket maker.
I just fixed it. I didn't think gasket maker would hold 70 psi. It seems that to much of a gap right there always ends up leaking. A buddy of mine built his own twin kit and the gaps weren't to big or so we thought, but it always leaked until he fixed it.
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Yeah maybe I'll talk to hsp about one. I wonder if they allow for a 5 inch intake like I ran before?
You said if you don't install the o ring it fits pretty tight? Mind posting a pic of it without the o ring? If you prep the surfaces correctly and use the gray gm sealant you would be suprised how well it seals and holds. I don't blame you for wanting to save the money since you already have this piece of junk from someone who "is doing well for himself and moved on". All while everyone else has to deal with and fix all his "hacked up" fab work.
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Hell I should of gotten a pic. I already removed the runners to suck out the heads. I might go bolt it back up just to see snap a pic
thats it sitting.
one side hand tight.
the gap when torque to 10 pounds. I know that's too much but I don't care, already have to buy new runners. That gap is about .018...
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You don't have any buddies who can weld aluminum? Seems like the easy fix would be to cut off one side, bolt it in place and tack the flange back on. Pull it part and weld it out.
I understand your frustration. It sucks to have to rework a part you paid good money for that should have fit the first time. Too bad you weren't closer. I could help you out. This is the kind of thing my group of truck friends help each other with all the time.
I understand your frustration. It sucks to have to rework a part you paid good money for that should have fit the first time. Too bad you weren't closer. I could help you out. This is the kind of thing my group of truck friends help each other with all the time.
Yeah I'm trying to get ahold of someone I know who tig welds. Idk how mobile his welder is. And I think this is something that needs to be fixed on the engine or with a jig
Yes, it needs to be welded on a jig or it will pull.
If you clean the surfaces good with scotch brite and then brake kleen the gm sealant will seal that hold. No problem. Just make sure you fill the o ring groove with silicone and then put a nice even bead all around it.
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If you clean the surfaces good with scotch brite and then brake kleen the gm sealant will seal that hold. No problem. Just make sure you fill the o ring groove with silicone and then put a nice even bead all around it.
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Think so with 18 thousandths gap? Keep in mind that was torqued to 10 pounds to pull it close, without the runners torqued down and every other bolt missing. I would just guess 7 pounds is the correct torque for those little 10mm head bolts. 10 pounds stripped 2 of them out but they were obviously already ****ed up half way from the original install that I did in the truck last year
Ben give the shop a call. We can figure something out for you. I'll talk with Joe about it.
Okay so that's about 7. Idk I ran 40 last season. I am changing my turbo probably though.