I still run a Bd and stock manifold
Can't afford the new pipes lol
I still run a Bd and stock manifold
Can't afford the new pipes lol
I still run a Bd and stock manifold
Can't afford the new pipes lol
IMHO...
Up pipes are worth the money, just the up pipes..
Not saying I do not like my PPE manifolds/up pipes, but I was expecting more, and IMO, their not all that cracked up to be. I blew out an up pipe bellow, and it was a good excuse to upgrade while I had everything apart, and getting screwed by ATS.
Definately not a eye opener, but did help idle EGT's, and WOT a little bit.
Its been proven stock manifolds get the job done, and I highly doubt stock manifolds will cause an issue like their said to.
Just my take on it
IMHO...
Up pipes are worth the money, just the up pipes..
Not saying I do not like my PPE manifolds/up pipes, but I was expecting more, and IMO, their not all that cracked up to be. I blew out an up pipe bellow, and it was a good excuse to upgrade while I had everything apart, and getting screwed by ATS.
Definately not a eye opener, but did help idle EGT's, and WOT a little bit.
Its been proven stock manifolds get the job done, and I highly doubt stock manifolds will cause an issue like their said to.
Just my take on it
Have aftermarket up-pipes proven to be more reliable/durable in hi drive pressure/high EGT situations?
I have seen several sets of blown apart stockers lately from trucks running small single turbos that run high drive pressure. It would be nice if the aftermarket ones hold up better.
I know when they were first introduced they didn't seem to be as reliable as stock up-pipes.
I have to disagree with this. I have personal experience on multiple failures of the stock parts, Here is a pic.
I have replaced the stock uppipe a few times with new stock parts and this is what happens, even stretched the other side a few times and cracked a few manifolds.
They work fine for mild applications but over time they WILL NOT hold up.
Have you ever seen a stock manifold crack somewhere other then where it was drilled and tapped?
I have seen several blown up-pipes like that. Almost all of them come off of trucks with PPE turbo kits using a Garret "40" series turbo. I'm not blaming PPE at all, but I don't think the 40 series is large enough on the exhaust side to keep drive pressure in check.
How do the aftermarket up-pipes work in this application? Lets say 100 psi of drive and 1900-2000* EGT?
When I cut apart an LB7 downpipe to try to build a larger one myself, I measured the cross section of the stocker. It was roughly 2"x4", which is 8sq". A 3" downpipe only has an area a bit larger than 7sq". Even with the stocker's restrictions, the only improvement would really be at the top bend after the turbo. I only run ~1500* in the 1/4 with a stocker, so it wasnt worth it to me to change it out.
A 3.5" downpipe would have an area of 9.6sq" and that would be a big improvement.
That leads me to the downpipe/frontpipe band connection. You could have a 4" downpipe, but it still has to squeeze thru that 3" restriction, doesnt it? So any benefits you might get from a larger downpipe are negated by the choke point at the front pipe. IF someone would make a 3.5" downpipe and include a new front pipe with a 3.5 or 4" connection, Id buy one. Problem is, it would be cost prohibitive, thats why nobody has done it.
Uppipes, though, are a definite improvement. Combine them with a set of manifolds and you reduce restriction to the turbo by quite a bit.
I can tell you also that my up pipes have dyno'd 15-25 hp on several stock lly's way back when I first designed them.
Design+materials+flow+reliability+experience = ProFab products!
I still run a Bd and stock manifold
Can't afford the new pipes lol