Twins with Twins, Anyone?
- Thread starter kidturbo
- Start date
I knew better than use cavalier dipsticks, but they were cheap and available. Cavalier doesn't make enough crankcase pressure to lift the dipstick out with a hole in all 4 pistons. We proved that once by putting a 175 hp shot on one. Lasted half a bottle.. lol
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Putting everything back together and as before the FD isn't playing nice. This puppies getting chocked up in a lathe tomorrow and honed out. Nothing should fit this tight on an engine..
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I thought you were supposed to put them in a kiln or something to get them to fit
. Have you tried warming it up to see if it goes on easier?
Tried heat taking it off, no diff. My experience putting ring gears on is it takes about 450F in the oven to get any noticeable clearance.I thought you were supposed to put them in a kiln or something to get them to fit. Have you tried warming it up to see if it goes on easier?
. Have you tried warming it up to see if it goes on easier?
If you'd like, I'll get oven heated up, you can do the rest. I'll be outside waiting, cause 450f also flash point of most oils... lol
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Did you try putting the engine in the freezer first? That is probably why it didn't work 
I remember a large electric motor, I think maybe about 50hp, that I was replacing the bearings on a number of years ago. Had to put the rotor in the walk-in freezer for a few hours and the bearings in the oven to get them on without damaging them
I remember a large electric motor, I think maybe about 50hp, that I was replacing the bearings on a number of years ago. Had to put the rotor in the walk-in freezer for a few hours and the bearings in the oven to get them on without damaging them
I know all the crank gears are press fit, but with the Callies double keyed, bitches ain't going anywhere unless the bolt falls out.. However, these dampers were out of that first Neutral batch, and pretty certain they opened up the tolerance a bit after some feedback. But unlike an ATI, ya gotta chock the whole thing up in the lathe rather than just a hub.
Todays Subject Matter, 101 Uses For A Broken Crank.
1. Works well in a vice for clearancing damper hubs..
Since my buddies lathe head has more runout than clearance required, decided to massage the hub by hand. A brand new 60 grit flapper wheel fits just perfectly for the job.
Installed damper this time with my cheap harbor freight impact gun, so clearance is obviously spot on now. LoL
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1. Works well in a vice for clearancing damper hubs..
Since my buddies lathe head has more runout than clearance required, decided to massage the hub by hand. A brand new 60 grit flapper wheel fits just perfectly for the job.
Installed damper this time with my cheap harbor freight impact gun, so clearance is obviously spot on now. LoL
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Yeah I figured hone stones would make it about 5 rotations tops. Good old flapper wheel did the trick. A little antisieze on the keys and between the washers made it go on like a dream. Torquing it down to spec now is a job for another day.. May just use a good 20v gun and call it done..
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Why not a good ol impact wrench with the air pressure turned up to 150 psi? Or the calibrated breaker bar, "errrr click"
150 that’s nothing. Hook the impact up to a C02 tank and set the regulator to 250 and wrap the impact in a heavy blanket just incase
I could always remove the starter and put the holder tool in there I guess. But that's too time consuming..
Why the heck does that bolt require 260lbft anyways?? What engineering principle says something pressed on a shaft, with double keyways, requires the highest torque of any piece on the engine? What am I missing there??
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Why the heck does that bolt require 260lbft anyways?? What engineering principle says something pressed on a shaft, with double keyways, requires the highest torque of any piece on the engine? What am I missing there??
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I bet you don't need that torque with an aftermarket press-on damper. The factory damper was slip fit with a tiny pin, not even a key. The crazy torque was to help clamp it with the giant washer and stop it from spinning, IMO.
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I will NEVER put anti-seize on a balancer or flywheel again. Did that 1 time on my Evinrude 140hp I had after I rebuilt it. It ran for about 5 minutes and sheered the crank key right off. Bear in mind, this was on a tapered fit shaft. Replaced the keyway and it did it again the 1st time I let off the throttle fast. Cleaned the shaft with brake clean, put it back together, and no more problems.
With the clearance these have, there was nothing left on the shaft. Pushed it all out behind the washer.. But using some between the ss washer and bolt for install sure helped.
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I'm with ya. Was thinking about leaving the bolt out, just to prove a point... lol
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