Question: Turbo Advice
- Thread starter Akdiesel
- Start date
Sorry, I should have read your sig closer. I noticed that you are a CC/LB. I don't think that will go 11's without a lot of work. I have the same issue with my truck (CC/LB). At this point I would be happy with mid 12's. I do not want to have to gut the thing to get the weight down for a few Saturdays of fun.
I do too much towing to remove the hitch. Too lazy to remove the running boards, etc.
I guess I will just have to make up for the weight with a set of big twins and dual CP3's...then rods, keyed crank/cam, cut pistons, etc., etc.FWIW, I have not been able to run Pat's race tune because of snow and ice on the road (and the 4 studded tires), but when the turbo lights off on the 175hp tune, man does that thing run....:coolspot:
Pat took the htt into the 11's with casper and 2 cp3's but he's much lighter then a cclb.
I'm in a similar boat as well on the weight thing. I'd have to drop the hitch, step bars, subs, drop to a smaller tire, drop the spare and so on. But well that's a LOT of work won't want to do that till I'm dual fueled, built motor and so onSorry, I should have read your sig closer. I noticed that you are a CC/LB. I don't think that will go 11's without a lot of work. I have the same issue with my truck (CC/LB). At this point I would be happy with mid 12's. I do not want to have to gut the thing to get the weight down for a few Saturdays of fun.
I do too much towing to remove the hitch. Too lazy to remove the running boards, etc.
FWIW, I have not been able to run Pat's race tune because of snow and ice on the road (and the 4 studded tires), but when the turbo lights off on the 175hp tune, man does that thing run....:coolspot:
x2 remember these words
i would have saved weeks combined of work if all 4 of my turbos were attached with velcro hahahahahahahahaha
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So I'm going to be sticking with a single for simplicity sake and now I'm stuck between Cheetah (68 or 71.5) and the HTT S366. Already have an aftermarket Downpipe so the HTT would mean selling it and selling the stock turbo which would offset some of the much larger price tag of the HTT but a PITA...so just trying to make my mind up
TThe install of my HTT wasnt that bad, I took my time and I enjoyed learning how. Ive heard nothing but good about the cheetah as well, youtr choice, I got my HTT for less than the 71.5 cheetah.
Did you get your HTT used though? Because yeah you can find the HTT turbo for a little less than the 71 but that's just the turbo not counting install kit and so on
A 64mm Cheetah is $2500, the 68mm is $2750, and the 71.5mm is $3000. The HTT 66/71/16 with stainless housing and install kit retails for $2,884.50 before any discounts. The Cheetah requires you to send in your core and re-use your downpipe, the HTT you can sell your core and down-pipe. I ran a 68mm Cheetah for about 8 months and would recommend the HTT over it any day, especially if you want to get your turbo in a timely manner. If you want an even cheaper turbo you can ditch the stainless housing and go with an S366 with a cast wastegated housing and an HTT install kit for around $2K IIRC (I'd have to look back into both prices).
Oh okay I didn't realize that discounts applied I was looking at retail vs retail costs and the PITA with the HTT would be selling my in box downpipe I hadn't installed and selling my stock turbo as I doubt there's much of a market for it. The only other thing you have to factor into the cost of the cheetah is the core refund which is includes in that price
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Keep your stock unit for sure. I have a feeling the smog nazzi's are going to be in force, looking for EO#'s, when we get our turn. Check the new laws and find out when your turn will be. It would not be cool to install it, then need to take it off the next month.
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I can tell you that with working with the stock setup it isa real SOB compared to a HTT type setup. What makes a S300 setup much easier for later is that the oil drain can be three pieced and taken off without removing the Y pipe/fuel blocks etc. That in itself reduces R and R time by 75 percent. You won't like pulling the Cheeta off and putting it back on.
yeah....lots of patience and lots of beer
I found using a little 12pt 12mm adjustable wrench works out nicely. Breaking them loose the first time is a SOB! I think me and Jared Duramax ran a bunch of extensions down the side of the bell housing to a 5 ft. cheater bar as well
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