Transfer case rear bushing

496 BB

Head Thread De-Railer
Feb 20, 2009
697
5
18
44
At your girlfriends house
What is the correct procedure on replacing this thing? I got 1/16" or so play from what I can feel and see and still running the two piece shaft. Thats about to change though. Im tired of replacing seal and carrier bearing every year as well as balancing shaft.

Either way Im pretty sure this bushing needs replaced as well as yoke. I plan on taking out case tomorrow evening but not sure where to go from there. Will be doing pump rub fix too. I know GM makes a special tool to take this bushing out but Im not spending their high dollar amount on something I hope to never use again.

Can you just tap it out or what when you split the cases? Also I assume there is a bearing back there as well for support....does that typically go bad as well? Any other things I should look for while in there? Like why damn thing shifts so hard into 4wd? I got 263 case. Think its the xhd or something.
 

02CCSB

Built
May 24, 2012
391
0
0
Winnipeg, Canada
First knock out the rear seal, then remove the speed sensor, then all the case bolts. Remove the rubber plug, spread the snap ring and remove the case half. Clean & assemble in reverse.
 

496 BB

Head Thread De-Railer
Feb 20, 2009
697
5
18
44
At your girlfriends house
I know that part. Wondering how bushing comes out of case? Is it pressed in or what? Dont want to screw up case trying to get it out if there is a certain way its sipposed to be removed.
 

ryan415

New member
Oct 24, 2012
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Yeah, it's just pressed in. You should be able to get it out pretty easy if you're splitting the case already.
 

02CCSB

Built
May 24, 2012
391
0
0
Winnipeg, Canada
Best to press the bushing out and a new one in with the correct size bushing driver. Choosing another method could damage it and/or the bore. It also goes only one way to lube it.
 

omaha123

yeapp
May 10, 2014
86
0
6
Nebraska
Best to press the bushing out and a new one in with the correct size bushing driver. Choosing another method could damage it and/or the bore. It also goes only one way to lube it.
Does it press out the tail section? or out towards the cent of the case?
just curious. will be attempting this tomorrow.
 

baddaddition

New member
Mar 10, 2013
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Either way doesn't matter. There is an oil passage made into housing I believe is on bottom. Just make sure oil hole on the bushing is in line with the passage. Same way the old one is orientated. I turned down an aluminum puck to get those out. Dab ya a little 426 loctite on the outside just aid in not spinning ... ever. Its a tight fit but just a good piece of mind. And yes you will fight the housing coming apart. Patients!!! There is a tail shaft bearing. Replace it as well.

Sent from a greasy hand under the hood of my buddys truck.
 

omaha123

yeapp
May 10, 2014
86
0
6
Nebraska
Hmmm my new bushing has no oil hole....
my3ysezy.jpg
old one


New one.
4eruhypy.jpg
 
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omaha123

yeapp
May 10, 2014
86
0
6
Nebraska
It better have an oil slot.
It has the slot that twists throughout the interior of the bushing.
but my old one has a small 1/2 square hole that lines up with the oil slot in the tail housing of the case.
otherwise they are identical.

sorry for threadjacking, but I guess this pertains
Edit: better pics showing the hole
a7u2age9.jpg

ahybe6e2.jpg
 
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496 BB

Head Thread De-Railer
Feb 20, 2009
697
5
18
44
At your girlfriends house
Goddamn thread jackers.... lol. Its all good. More info the better.

Alright took this thing out last night and first off would love to thank the genius who designed the case splitting procedure. It was a blast. First off is that snap ring supposed to have holes in it or not? Mine doesnt. Figured its how it is.

I got some pics as Im soooo glad I got to this now and not later when we going on vacation. Looks like the pump housing broke. Yep leave it to me. I heard this noise earlier this week so I think thats what it was. Has not done it since but there is ALOT of metal in the case. Good thing is I dont think anything else is messed up other than some high mileage items that I expected. The rear bushing is gouged and shot as expected. The pump clip is broke in two as expected. Front output shaft bearing has way to much play for my likings.

The shift fork plastic fingers all look brand new. The planetary gears all appear great (from looking in case...will remove today). Chain appears good (How you know when its bad?). Rear case has no signs or probs. Pump rub I think was only for couple days this week from what I see. Not bad at all. HOW do you change the needle bearing for the secondary shaft in the rear case?

Here are some pics. Everything will be removed and bathed before put back together.

Is this main gear on main shaft supposed to have wiggle with no chain on? And in 2wd?
20140621_000237_zpsqy84ete7.jpg


This is the speedo tone wheel and where it sits into the pump section is now lipped or groved unlike the flat smooth top section. The gear part is fine. Its the lower section that is like that. Is this normal or did it get screwed up?
20140620_235858_zpsglm8m9vk.jpg


Magnet lol. It did have the short piece of the pump clip on it though. It may have been my saving grace on this
20140620_234754_zps4slttzon.jpg


Pump assembly. You can see pieces of it sitting on top when I opened it up. You can also see the pump case itself is split apart on one side. I dont know if tube was in it or not when I opened it. Cant remember and dont have a reference pic. I do know the tube's o ring is gone.
20140620_234320_zpskxoe3jma.jpg


Pump case
20140620_234312_zpswqostxr7.jpg


Another pump pic
20140620_222741_zps3ui9z1cv.jpg

20140620_222726_zpsy21ls8yb.jpg



What caused this? It doesnt appear to be a major issue but please correct me if Im wrong. Its on the main shaft below chain gear
20140620_223050_zpsvgbzkftw.jpg


Looks like it just started to pump rub. Am I correct in thinking this?
20140620_222654_zps3dpti6hz.jpg


As I said I will tear into the rest today. Trying to get a parts list of what I need to get this back in next weekend. I just wanted to get more opinions on what was going on since this is my first rebuild/fixing of a tcase. If you see anything else thats wrong please feel free to chime in.

Thanks,
Chris
 

Mike L.

Got Sheep?
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Aug 12, 2006
15,681
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Fullerton CA
I would buy another transfer case. Too much damage. I don't think the tone wheel will ever produce the signal properly again.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,761
5,933
113
Phoenix Az
I'm with mike. My case is not NEAR are torn up as that thing and it still cost me 340 bucks in little parts to get it back 100%.

Have you pulled the shift fork and hub that's in/at the planetary gears? That's the one that's usually is shot.

Here is what mine looks like and was only causing a clunk at the time
3yhapuhu.jpg


My mode fork had hardly any wear accept at the ends of the fork so I'm replacing it anyhow. Your chain looks looser than mine but it's hard to tell in the pics.

And yes, that's the start of pump rub.
 

02CCSB

Built
May 24, 2012
391
0
0
Winnipeg, Canada
The pump tubes o'ring missing is likely the cause of all that damage since the pump wouldn't be able to pick up the oil. I bet the Mainshaft is wasted too. Going to cost a bit to fix that one...or replace it...