Transfer case rear bushing
- Thread starter 496 BB
- Start date
You see anything wrong with mine mike?
You have a groove right down the center where the sensor picks up its signal. The air gap between sensor and reluctor should be .028-.047. Pretty small working window. When the gap gets to the outer limits ( .047 ); the shifting can get crazy at higher speeds.
There is 4 more pictures posted after the blurry one, I don't see any damage where the sensor actually picks its signal up from. The blurry first photo looks terrible, but on subsequent ones the teeth appear fine?
So u dont think I would have around $500 in parts? If I got a new tone wheel and rear case would it produce right signal Mike? Who sells rebuilt ones and how much?
Thanks for all the input guys. Keep it coming.
Thanks for all the input guys. Keep it coming.
Ok just pulled main forks. They look great. Not like above. All plastic is on there and was only a SLIVER of melted plastic on very end so they are not overheated. All races they ride on look good as well. I cant get the damn planetary set out but they are silky smooth and have no signs of wear from looking inside of case. How do I remove these? I pulled the worlds biggest snap ring off but still cant find where its attached. Im assuming the input seal but not sure how to remove since the front drive output seal was a royal pita last night. I dont think I was doing it the right way or something. Please advise.
So basically it looks like this is my parts list so far:
New pump
Tone wheel
Front shaft output bearing
Rear output bearing main shaft
Front shaft rear needle bearing (in the case...how do I remove?)
Rear main shaft output bushing
Rear output seal
Pump rub kit
Maybe some more that Im not remembering. I will make a list tomorrow. Is this still worth saving in your opinion? If its only a couple hundred difference then yea a new case sounds good. If more Id rather rebuild.
So basically it looks like this is my parts list so far:
New pump
Tone wheel
Front shaft output bearing
Rear output bearing main shaft
Front shaft rear needle bearing (in the case...how do I remove?)
Rear main shaft output bushing
Rear output seal
Pump rub kit
Maybe some more that Im not remembering. I will make a list tomorrow. Is this still worth saving in your opinion? If its only a couple hundred difference then yea a new case sounds good. If more Id rather rebuild.
There is a snap ring behind the input seal to remove the planet...and a second snap ring on the input bearing inside the case...
I'm also willing to wager your mainshaft and drive sprocket hub are toast...pics would confirm...
Mike, wasn't trying to step in your toes, first guys tone wheel looked ok, second one speaks for itself...
Mike, wasn't trying to step in your toes, first guys tone wheel looked ok, second one speaks for itself...
Use a small flat head and drive it into the edge of the input seal and pry up.
DO NOT beat on the I input shaft to get it out...seen many guys break the front case half at the second snap ring doing this...
DO NOT beat on the I input shaft to get it out...seen many guys break the front case half at the second snap ring doing this...
Where is best place to find oem parts for this? Merchant seems to be 2x price as other places Im seeing for oem stuff.
Who has a good selection? Places I find like midwest trans and such have parts but not all the parts that I need.
BTW - Main shaft looks fine. Will get picks up here in a few.
Mike I will call you tomorrow when you get back to work.
BTW - Main shaft looks fine. Will get picks up here in a few.
Mike I will call you tomorrow when you get back to work.
UPDATE:
Here are main shaft pics:
Inside of drive hub. Does this look ok? Seems its kinda tore up. No real gouges per se but still slightly rough. Not exactly smooth and I would assume it is new
Drive hub again
Main shaft where drive hub sits. Again same situation. Advise please???
Does this synchro look ok? I assume it does but never seen a new one to compare it to
Other than this and its kinda abrupt going into 4wd while moving Ive never had a problem with this case. Im thinking the bearings are what gouged the main shaft. That and the fact the 2pc drive shaft was always wobbling it seems even though I had it rebuilt every year with all new spicer parts and balanced.
Let me know how that stuff looks. If its bad its approaching some coin now.
Mike you sell these rebuilt? Not sure if Id trust anyone else unless you recommended someone.
Here are main shaft pics:
Inside of drive hub. Does this look ok? Seems its kinda tore up. No real gouges per se but still slightly rough. Not exactly smooth and I would assume it is new
Drive hub again
Main shaft where drive hub sits. Again same situation. Advise please???
Does this synchro look ok? I assume it does but never seen a new one to compare it to
Other than this and its kinda abrupt going into 4wd while moving Ive never had a problem with this case. Im thinking the bearings are what gouged the main shaft. That and the fact the 2pc drive shaft was always wobbling it seems even though I had it rebuilt every year with all new spicer parts and balanced.
Let me know how that stuff looks. If its bad its approaching some coin now.
Mike you sell these rebuilt? Not sure if Id trust anyone else unless you recommended someone.
Not sure why it looks chipped because its not. Looks good.
All these look good but one has just about 4 teeth that are slightly chipped at the very top. Not all the way down either just kinda notched
Notched
All these look good but one has just about 4 teeth that are slightly chipped at the very top. Not all the way down either just kinda notched
Notched
That shaft looks like it got hot from lack of oil. No idea on the syncro.
I'm personally only going with motive gear and merchant parts. There are cheaper bearings and what not out there but this isn't something I want to tear back into cause of a bad Chinese bearing or part. Merchant actually looked reaonably priced compared to others.
Google reman tcases. I've seen a few for around 1100 or so bucks plus core charge
I'm personally only going with motive gear and merchant parts. There are cheaper bearings and what not out there but this isn't something I want to tear back into cause of a bad Chinese bearing or part. Merchant actually looked reaonably priced compared to others.
Google reman tcases. I've seen a few for around 1100 or so bucks plus core charge
Shaft and hub are toast. Planet is checked by rocking the pinion gears on the pins, as in, the will move up and down, that's fine, but they should not rock on the center pin.
The synchro is checked by having all three pieces in place as they would be on the Mainshaft. There should be a gap between the outer ring and the part the collar engages on.
OK James I want sure if all parts were OEM or if some were knockoffs. That explains alot of the price difference. I dont want chinese shit either. I also dont want some junk reman found on google as well. Thats why I was asking if anyone has dealt with a particular company that has good remans.
So I assume all of Merchant's are OEM parts? If so I apologize for saying his parts were high. Its understandable now. Even then I dont think he has all the parts I need so I may have no other choice than buying a reman.
So I assume all of Merchant's are OEM parts? If so I apologize for saying his parts were high. Its understandable now. Even then I dont think he has all the parts I need so I may have no other choice than buying a reman.
You can fix it, all the parts are off shore now, just buy a Morse HyVo chain and you will be fine. Even the OEM parts are off shore. Building it yourself and knowing what is in it is better than some of the remans out there, including GMs 3yr warranty crap.
Ok but parts like the input bearing and others I cant find. Plus with main shafts and all I think the price is getting waaay up there as stated before. I think maybe a reman is in store and be done with it. If they check everything like they say then all that should be good.
Who has experience with any reman companies?
Who has experience with any reman companies?