Transfer case rear bushing

[496 BB]

What is the correct procedure on replacing this thing? I got 1/16" or so play from what I can feel and see and still running the two piece shaft. Thats about to change though. Im tired of replacing seal and carrier bearing every year as well as balancing shaft.

Either way Im pretty sure this bushing needs replaced as well as yoke. I plan on taking out case tomorrow evening but not sure where to go from there. Will be doing pump rub fix too. I know GM makes a special tool to take this bushing out but Im not spending their high dollar amount on something I hope to never use again.

Can you just tap it out or what when you split the cases? Also I assume there is a bearing back there as well for support....does that typically go bad as well? Any other things I should look for while in there? Like why damn thing shifts so hard into 4wd? I got 263 case. Think its the xhd or something.

 

[02CCSB]

First knock out the rear seal, then remove the speed sensor, then all the case bolts. Remove the rubber plug, spread the snap ring and remove the case half. Clean & assemble in reverse.

 

[496 BB]

I know that part. Wondering how bushing comes out of case? Is it pressed in or what? Dont want to screw up case trying to get it out if there is a certain way its sipposed to be removed.

 

[ryan415]

Yeah, it's just pressed in. You should be able to get it out pretty easy if you're splitting the case already.

 

[02CCSB]

Best to press the bushing out and a new one in with the correct size bushing driver. Choosing another method could damage it and/or the bore. It also goes only one way to lube it.

 

[Mike L.]

Best to press the bushing out and a new one in with the correct size bushing driver. Choosing another method could damage it and/or the bore. It also goes only one way to lube it.

What he said.^^^

 

[omaha123]

Best to press the bushing out and a new one in with the correct size bushing driver. Choosing another method could damage it and/or the bore. It also goes only one way to lube it.

Does it press out the tail section? or out towards the cent of the case?
just curious. will be attempting this tomorrow.

 

[baddaddition]

Either way doesn't matter. There is an oil passage made into housing I believe is on bottom. Just make sure oil hole on the bushing is in line with the passage. Same way the old one is orientated. I turned down an aluminum puck to get those out. Dab ya a little 426 loctite on the outside just aid in not spinning ... ever. Its a tight fit but just a good piece of mind. And yes you will fight the housing coming apart. Patients!!! There is a tail shaft bearing. Replace it as well.

Sent from a greasy hand under the hood of my buddys truck.

 

[armoredduramax]

Is that bearing B25 on merchant automotives website?

 

[omaha123]

Hmmm my new bushing has no oil hole....

old one


New one.

 

[Mike L.]

It better have an oil slot.

 

[omaha123]

It better have an oil slot.

It has the slot that twists throughout the interior of the bushing.
but my old one has a small 1/2 square hole that lines up with the oil slot in the tail housing of the case.
otherwise they are identical.

sorry for threadjacking, but I guess this pertains
Edit: better pics showing the hole

 

[Mike L.]

Unless it has the hole to feed the oil grooves, I wouldn't use it.

 

[omaha123]

Unless it has the hole to feed the oil grooves, I wouldn't use it.

gotcha, the parts guy said it was a new design. I'm guessing he didn't know what to say.
I guess I stick with the old one!

 

[496 BB]

Goddamn thread jackers.... lol. Its all good. More info the better.

Alright took this thing out last night and first off would love to thank the genius who designed the case splitting procedure. It was a blast. First off is that snap ring supposed to have holes in it or not? Mine doesnt. Figured its how it is.

I got some pics as Im soooo glad I got to this now and not later when we going on vacation. Looks like the pump housing broke. Yep leave it to me. I heard this noise earlier this week so I think thats what it was. Has not done it since but there is ALOT of metal in the case. Good thing is I dont think anything else is messed up other than some high mileage items that I expected. The rear bushing is gouged and shot as expected. The pump clip is broke in two as expected. Front output shaft bearing has way to much play for my likings.

The shift fork plastic fingers all look brand new. The planetary gears all appear great (from looking in case...will remove today). Chain appears good (How you know when its bad?). Rear case has no signs or probs. Pump rub I think was only for couple days this week from what I see. Not bad at all. HOW do you change the needle bearing for the secondary shaft in the rear case?

Here are some pics. Everything will be removed and bathed before put back together.

Is this main gear on main shaft supposed to have wiggle with no chain on? And in 2wd?

This is the speedo tone wheel and where it sits into the pump section is now lipped or groved unlike the flat smooth top section. The gear part is fine. Its the lower section that is like that. Is this normal or did it get screwed up?

Magnet lol. It did have the short piece of the pump clip on it though. It may have been my saving grace on this

Pump assembly. You can see pieces of it sitting on top when I opened it up. You can also see the pump case itself is split apart on one side. I dont know if tube was in it or not when I opened it. Cant remember and dont have a reference pic. I do know the tube's o ring is gone.

Pump case

Another pump pic

What caused this? It doesnt appear to be a major issue but please correct me if Im wrong. Its on the main shaft below chain gear

Looks like it just started to pump rub. Am I correct in thinking this?

As I said I will tear into the rest today. Trying to get a parts list of what I need to get this back in next weekend. I just wanted to get more opinions on what was going on since this is my first rebuild/fixing of a tcase. If you see anything else thats wrong please feel free to chime in.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Mike L.]

I would buy another transfer case. Too much damage. I don't think the tone wheel will ever produce the signal properly again.

 

[Chevy1925]

I'm with mike. My case is not NEAR are torn up as that thing and it still cost me 340 bucks in little parts to get it back 100%.

Have you pulled the shift fork and hub that's in/at the planetary gears? That's the one that's usually is shot.

Here is what mine looks like and was only causing a clunk at the time

My mode fork had hardly any wear accept at the ends of the fork so I'm replacing it anyhow. Your chain looks looser than mine but it's hard to tell in the pics.

And yes, that's the start of pump rub.

 

[02CCSB]

The pump tubes o'ring missing is likely the cause of all that damage since the pump wouldn't be able to pick up the oil. I bet the Mainshaft is wasted too. Going to cost a bit to fix that one...or replace it...

 

[02CCSB]

That tone wheel is fine and NO the drive sprocket hub should not have any play on the Mainshaft.

 

[Mike L.]

That tone wheel is fine

Really.
It wouldn't leave my shop with that tone wheel.