LB7: The Rebuild, Ch.2 -- Building slowly

[durallymax]

Good ideas on just finding a shortblock. You guys make some excellent points, but it isnt in my plans.

Thanks for the tips on the oil pump. Cripes, talk about simple if/when you do it the right way. :rofl: Got the reluctor wheel off and yep...broke the 2nd pin. Sheesh, are they weak SOBs. Looks like reluctor has a slight wave to it in one spot...must have been from my futile attempts Sunday. Nice.

Got lifters and cam pulled, too. Cam pin was loose, but not bent. :thumb: Cam has the typical wear marks from the lifter wheels, but otherwise looks fine.

I have to take engine back off the stand to finally remove the back plate, then I can check the crank deflection and then pull it. Will have to find a free Saturday to get the crank and cam out to Eric's for keys. Probably should take the pistons, too.

Did that rod come out of a running engine? Wow.
To compare....bent LB7 vs. good LBZ

Mine did the one on Erics wall I dunno about. Sounds like others do.

The block numbering is 1-2-2-1-1.

Vinny, I forgot to add that I just let the allen wrench come around and brace itself on the socket for the oil pump nut. Would have been very awkward to try to hold the allen and pull the bar at the same time. I did only have to use one hand to pull the breaker bar and the nut popped loose. Go figure.

I never even thought of that

 

[1chevy02]

That rod at E's shop was from Finger's motor, wasnt it? Hell, I cant remember...it was a few years ago. :rofl: "Old brain syndrome" I have....

You know the one piece of information Id give people running stock motors? Do a compression test at the end of every year, so you can catch potential problems. I figure I was a couple WOT runs from having a more expensive repair, if you get my meaning. Just save the results for comparison the next year, too.

I just compression checked mine and they were all at 380 psi with less than 10 psi variance so I guess I'm still alright? Are those good numbers? I was really impressed with how consistent all 8 holes tested.

 

[TheBac]

IMO, yes it is.

 

[durallymax]

Yes that is a good number.

Mine were all under 300psi with one at about 180psi.

The biggest thing is the variance between them.

 

[Fingers]

Yep, that's my rod on the wall. Every rod in the block was bent. What a rush.

 

[TheBac]

Crank deflection was .0065 total. Factory tolerances are .0016 - .0081 according to Alldata. So we're good there.

Cap bearing halves of the mains all show wear, though. Looks like the caps were flexing after all. Thrust bearings do have a bit of polish to them, too.

Added some more pics to the album.

 

[Micheal Tomac]

Install ARP main studs then get it line honed

 

[TheBac]

Went to Eric's yesterday, and here's what we concluded:

1) Main caps were walking, although the crank was not. Bearings show wear, but nothing out of the ordinary considering the abuse it went thru.
Crank bearing numbering is 2-2-2-2-2. Main studs are going to have to be added to the parts list. Ugh.

2) The pistons were NOT hitting the crank, so that was some good news. They will be getting delipped and cleaned up.

3) Crank doesnt show any excessive wear, but will get keyed, polished and mag'd anyways. Balance job will definitely have to be done. Cam also getting keyed.

4) Head gaskets showed that the heads were moving around some, possibly lifting under duress....thus leaking coolant into the cylinders. Thats what the yellowish stuff I mentioned seeing around the injector holes is. Had no signs of head gasket failure, just that the heads were shifting. This means the heads will have to be gone thru, and Ill have to save up for studs. Just f-in great.

5) With what the other parts are telling us, the block (esp main cap area) should be checked and mag'd.

6) We can salvage the old rods. Eric plans on placing them in the press and straightening them out. Also may weld some strengthening plates to the beams so they can handle additional hp.

 

[Rhall]

Hell a press? I was just thinking a couple of pipe wrenches should do the trick!

 

[DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7]

how much you looking to be into all this?? i'll probably be starting my rebuild sometime this summer

 

[KEVINL]

Went to Eric's yesterday, and here's what we concluded:



6) We can salvage the old rods. Eric plans on placing them in the press and straightening them out. Also may weld some strengthening plates to the beams so they can handle additional hp.

I thought you were going with LBZ rods

And is that a serious post

 

[TheBac]

Kev...cmon, you know better than that. notice this: I do like Rob's idea though....

Mafia, I think it'll end up around $4k. Cant say for sure until its done and I add up all the receipts.

 

[JD4440]

$4k doesn't seem too bad to me for a more durable motor

 

[TheBac]

Like I said, Im not sure what the final cost will be.

All these amounts are what I remember, but my memory isnt what it used to be. I know Im missing a major number of things, but Im not in the mood to sit here and figure it all out.

Key crank: $150
Key cam: $125
Cut pistons: $400
Redo heads (clean, valvejob, seals, decking): $450 (min)
Clean/mag block: $225
Polish/mag crank: $200
Main studs/line hone: $400 (min)

LBZ rods: $200 (thanks Russ)
Bolts (all that damn stretch crap): $250 (min)
Gaskets (not inc heads): $200 (min)
Headgaskets: $250
Fluids: $100

$2950 right there.
It'll be more than that in the end, as theres always crap you forget or need. I just dont know why I have to keep justifying doing this "stock" rebuild, though.

 

[KEVINL]

so 6 to 7 k with aftermarket rods that isn't too terrible

I couldn't imagine dropping 20 k on a motor like some guys have

 

[KEVINL]

What about head studs?

 

[TheBac]

What about head studs?

I'll have to sell more plasma to get those.


Point is, we find the caps are moving, so head studs are "required". Hell, it didnt throw a dang rod or spin a bearing the last two years...so who's to say it will now?

Then...oh no...the heads are moving. Need head studs now. Ok, so the heads are moving...whoopdedo. Id have been surprised if they werent. But the gaskets didnt blow and held just fine under normal conditions. Id bet every single solitary truck in the country running 12s or better has moving heads and main caps.

See what I mean about "where does it end?" Im going to build what I want, how I want. If it blows up, it blows up. Im betting it doesnt. Sorry, Im getting a bit testy about this "build".

 

[DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7]

I'll have to sell more plasma to get those.


See what I mean about "where does it end?" Im going to build what I want, how I want. If it blows up, it blows up. Im betting it doesnt. Sorry, Im getting a bit testy about this "build".

Ya i bet not having my truck and spending lots of money or what seems to be no reason would piss me off till the truck started anyway

 

[standy]

I'll have to sell more plasma to get those.


Point is, we find the caps are moving, so head studs are "required". Hell, it didnt throw a dang rod or spin a bearing the last two years...so who's to say it will now?

Then...oh no...the heads are moving. Need head studs now. Ok, so the heads are moving...whoopdedo. Id have been surprised if they werent. But the gaskets didnt blow and held just fine under normal conditions. Id bet every single solitary truck in the country running 12s or better has moving heads and main caps.

See what I mean about "where does it end?" Im going to build what I want, how I want. If it blows up, it blows up. Im betting it doesnt. Sorry, Im getting a bit testy about this "build".

Hang in there, Tom. I know exactly what you mean with the "where does it end?" statement. With Eric and the many other experienced people here helping along the way, I'm sure that everything will come together just fine.

 

[maine04max]

Tom , I know exactly what you mean on the WHERE DOES IT END part ......... im nearing the end of my build and question my self on where to stop