I used a 650 ft/lb impact and the air pressure was at 160 psi and just got them out. The balancer bolt is 208 ft/lbs the flywheel bolts have to be around 500 I would think.
Kole and I gave it a try again tonight. Used a 2ft piece of 2x10 braced under the drivers side exhaust manifold, and breaker bar/pipe combo. We broke all 8 bolts loose, no problems. Go figure. Got the balancer bolt done, too. Gotta go buy a better engine stand somewhere tomorrow.
Also...a pic of the broken motor mount. Split clean thru.
Tom, the number of holes isn't what designates the gasket thickness, it's the position and shape of the hole. Here's a thread that explains it with pictures: http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6148Wow. Better eat my Wheaties. The specs say 58ftlbs + 60* + 60*
Thanks for the tips...I'll get on the "outrigger" as soon as I can.
Oh yeah, looks like engine has "C" headgaskets. There are two holes in the tab sticking out on the pass side.
Yes sir, thats the plan. I'd like to know myself.Looks good Tom ! make sure you check protrusion before you tear the pistons out of the block , you may not be able to see how bent the rods were , mine were barely bent visually but failed a protrusion test by alot . Its not Nec but i am sure you are curious to find out .
When you install the new flywheel bolt is when it's really going to suck. Get your self a anglur tq Gauge not spelled right I know lol.
Tom, the number of holes isn't what designates the gasket thickness, it's the position and shape of the hole. Here's a thread that explains it with pictures: http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6148
I think it designates right and left. You can't see the little R and L on the head gasket with the head installed, and that's what the LML head gasket selection information Henry just posted says they mean.I wondered what the 6 and 7 meant in Josh's link...it wasnt listed. Right and left...makes sense.
Looks great so far now that you have all the tight bolts done everything else should be cake.
i dont remember seeing anywhere but are you doing a full build or just rods?
I probably missed it in your other thread, but what rods are you going with? You cutting your pistons while you have them out?Rods, key cam/crank, balance, etc. You know...the "normal" Dmax improvements. Nothing outrageous.
Why do you want LBZ rods? I always thought they were the softest?
If I were you, I would really think about cutting the lip down and maybe even coating the tops of the piston. It would probably drop you down to about the same compression ratio as a stock LBZ.