LB7: The Rebuild, Ch.2 -- Building slowly

ripmf666

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I used a 650 ft/lb impact and the air pressure was at 160 psi and just got them out. The balancer bolt is 208 ft/lbs the flywheel bolts have to be around 500 I would think.
 

TheBac

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Wow. Better eat my Wheaties. The specs say 58ftlbs + 60* + 60* :eek:

Thanks for the tips...I'll get on the "outrigger" as soon as I can.

Oh yeah, looks like engine has "C" headgaskets. There are two holes in the tab sticking out on the pass side.
 
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TheBac

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Kole and I gave it a try again tonight. Used a 2ft piece of 2x10 braced under the drivers side exhaust manifold, and breaker bar/pipe combo. We broke all 8 bolts loose, no problems. Go figure. Got the balancer bolt done, too. Gotta go buy a better engine stand somewhere tomorrow.

Also...a pic of the broken motor mount. Split clean thru.
 

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TrentNell

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Kole and I gave it a try again tonight. Used a 2ft piece of 2x10 braced under the drivers side exhaust manifold, and breaker bar/pipe combo. We broke all 8 bolts loose, no problems. Go figure. Got the balancer bolt done, too. Gotta go buy a better engine stand somewhere tomorrow.

Also...a pic of the broken motor mount. Split clean thru.

Looks good Tom ! make sure you check protrusion before you tear the pistons out of the block , you may not be able to see how bent the rods were , mine were barely bent visually but failed a protrusion test by alot . Its not Nec but i am sure you are curious to find out .
 

ripmf666

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When you install the new flywheel bolt is when it's really going to suck. Get your self a anglur tq Gauge not spelled right I know lol.
 

JoshH

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Wow. Better eat my Wheaties. The specs say 58ftlbs + 60* + 60* :eek:

Thanks for the tips...I'll get on the "outrigger" as soon as I can.

Oh yeah, looks like engine has "C" headgaskets. There are two holes in the tab sticking out on the pass side.
Tom, the number of holes isn't what designates the gasket thickness, it's the position and shape of the hole. Here's a thread that explains it with pictures: http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6148
 

TheBac

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Looks good Tom ! make sure you check protrusion before you tear the pistons out of the block , you may not be able to see how bent the rods were , mine were barely bent visually but failed a protrusion test by alot . Its not Nec but i am sure you are curious to find out .
Yes sir, thats the plan. I'd like to know myself.

When you install the new flywheel bolt is when it's really going to suck. Get your self a anglur tq Gauge not spelled right I know lol.

Yep. When I got the first one broke loose, I about cheered. Gotta love low-tech and cheap (the wood brace). Kole comes over looking like, "Oh that didnt look too tough"....until he balanced his whole weight on the bar and couldnt move it. :rofl: Silly kids. Took both of us to break the others loose. Nice working with my son. Im glad he's taking interest in this.

Tom, the number of holes isn't what designates the gasket thickness, it's the position and shape of the hole. Here's a thread that explains it with pictures: http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6148

THANK YOU! I tried to find the gasket info and couldnt! Heres a pic of the pass side. Looks like a "2" and a "6" to me, which looks like "B". Am I reading that correct?
 

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TheBac

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I wondered what the 6 and 7 meant in Josh's link...it wasnt listed. Right and left...makes sense.
 

JoshH

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I wondered what the 6 and 7 meant in Josh's link...it wasnt listed. Right and left...makes sense.
I think it designates right and left. You can't see the little R and L on the head gasket with the head installed, and that's what the LML head gasket selection information Henry just posted says they mean.
 

Jared Duramax

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Looks great so far now that you have all the tight bolts done everything else should be cake.

i dont remember seeing anywhere but are you doing a full build or just rods?
 

ripmf666

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Tom I think in text somewere it said 6 and 7 were right and left not sure why it did not come over. I was digging for lml stuff last night.
 

TheBac

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Looks great so far now that you have all the tight bolts done everything else should be cake.

i dont remember seeing anywhere but are you doing a full build or just rods?

Rods, key cam/crank, balance, etc. You know...the "normal" Dmax improvements. Nothing outrageous.
 

JoshH

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Rods, key cam/crank, balance, etc. You know...the "normal" Dmax improvements. Nothing outrageous.
I probably missed it in your other thread, but what rods are you going with? You cutting your pistons while you have them out?
 

TheBac

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LBZ's, although Im starting to wonder if Im going to be over their max rating by the time Im done. Been putting some serious thought into larger injectors to help keep cyl pressures down.

Plans are to leave the pistons alone for right now. Id like to keep as much static compression as I can.
 
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JoshH

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If I were you, I would really think about cutting the lip down and maybe even coating the tops of the piston. It would probably drop you down to about the same compression ratio as a stock LBZ.
 

TheBac

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Why do you want LBZ rods? I always thought they were the softest?

No, the bent ones in my LB7 are the weakest. LBZs are slightly stronger. Im hearing that the LMLs may be stronger yet.

If I were you, I would really think about cutting the lip down and maybe even coating the tops of the piston. It would probably drop you down to about the same compression ratio as a stock LBZ.


Josh, thats always a possibility to cut them. Eric's advice is to cut them, too. We'll see whats up when I get the heads off. I may be forced to cut them to clean the lips up. Im just not sold on the need to do it for my situation. Its kind of a unique in that I am not using larger turbo(s) or dual fuelers like most people would do trying to hit 11s, which pretty much requires cutting pistons, hence my thinking of keeping compression high.
 
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