LB7: The Rebuild, Ch.2 -- Building slowly

Rhall

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Aug 12, 2006
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Damn, all that N20 really bent those rods.:rofl::D Jk Jk. On a side not thats pretty wild, seems its luck of the drawl. I ran n20 on a stock turbo for couple years running lots of 12.0s with just a ppe hot, then for 2 years i ran twin cp3s and one of those years with a 4088, and my rods were all perfect when i tore my motor down.
 

TheBac

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Apr 19, 2008
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Thanks Vinny. Took me and my son on the breaker bar with ext pipe to break the flywheel bolts loose....they actually werent too bad. Used the old 1/2 extension-in-the-flywheel trick from the waterpump diy to hold the flywheel...worked perfect.
I'll get those engine pull pics moved to photobucket tonight if the email didnt work.

Rob...N2O....yep, lots of it....:rofl:
 
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durallymax

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Apr 26, 2008
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Sounds good.

Your Rods dont look as bad as mine did.

DSCN0271.jpg
 

duratothemax

<--- slippery roads
Aug 28, 2006
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yeah thats the good thing about stock rods! They never seem to break. They just bend slowly and give you lots of warning.

Not like certain other rods that just break when you are going down the highway!

Tom that smiley face left on the rocker shaft is priceless. :rofl: :joker:

ben
 

05smoker

I'm officially done!
Mar 30, 2007
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yeah thats the good thing about stock rods! They never seem to break. They just bend slowly and give you lots of warning.

Never say never. Importkilla's green 03 with the twins spit one out the side of the block with no warning.:D

Tom,

What about buying a good stock motor and running it until you can get the funds for your build? That way you have more time and you can have a truck that's not down for a year.
 

JoshH

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Never say never. Importkilla's green 03 with the twins spit one out the side of the block with no warning.:D

Tom,

What about buying a good stock motor and running it until you can get the funds for your build? That way you have more time and you can have a truck that's not down for a year.
Yes, but I think what that happens it is because the rods have bent to the point of the crank contacting the bottom of the piston. When that happens, it breaks the piston loose from the wrist pin, and the rod is free to beat its way out of the block.
 
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SmokeShow

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Nov 30, 2006
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I second these guys, what would a used, but still good, short block go for? $1200-1500? Even an LBZ shortblock might go for around $2000. I'd do that and get back up n running then build your current shortblock with good aftermarket rods and do something with the pistons, cam, etc. as time and funds permitted. Even if it were a couple years for you.

Then, when you swap the built one in, you can hang on to the used short block as a spare or re-sell it and re-coop most of your money back.


C-ya
 
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KEVINL

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Jul 4, 2008
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There is no way I could go almost a year without my Duramax.

I go through withdrawls if I don't drive it for a couple days


Good luck Tom
 

JD4440

<< Lo-Carb Monster
Feb 27, 2009
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That's what I'm considering but you go from the time you buy the motor until you sell the motor short that cash that's needed for the build ,at least in my case. That and all I see currrently are LB7 motors, not but a few LLY and hardly any LBZ's.
 
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TheBac

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Good ideas on just finding a shortblock. You guys make some excellent points, but it isnt in my plans.

Thanks for the tips on the oil pump. Cripes, talk about simple if/when you do it the right way. :rolleyes::rofl: Got the reluctor wheel off and yep...broke the 2nd pin. Sheesh, are they weak SOBs. Looks like reluctor has a slight wave to it in one spot...must have been from my futile attempts Sunday. Nice.

Got lifters and cam pulled, too. Cam pin was loose, but not bent. :thumb: Cam has the typical wear marks from the lifter wheels, but otherwise looks fine.

I have to take engine back off the stand to finally remove the back plate, then I can check the crank deflection and then pull it. Will have to find a free Saturday to get the crank and cam out to Eric's for keys. Probably should take the pistons, too.

Did that rod come out of a running engine? Wow.
To compare....bent LB7 vs. good LBZ
100_5621.jpg
 
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TheBac

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The block numbering is 1-2-2-1-1.

Vinny, I forgot to add that I just let the allen wrench come around and brace itself on the socket for the oil pump nut. Would have been very awkward to try to hold the allen and pull the bar at the same time. I did only have to use one hand to pull the breaker bar and the nut popped loose. Go figure.
 
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buildingup

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Tom if you get the crank out by Thursday night this week I can run it to Eric's on Friday since I'm going from Lansing to Muskegon. I know its not much time and I'm sure you'd like to pick his brain, but the offer is on the table.
 

TheBac

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Tom if you get the crank out by Thursday night this week I can run it to Eric's on Friday since I'm going from Lansing to Muskegon. I know its not much time and I'm sure you'd like to pick his brain, but the offer is on the table.

Thanks Julian, but Id rather take the parts myself so E and I can talk about my options.

Ben, I will try to straighten it out first, but will let you know if I need one.
 

minisub

6-5/6-6;Whatever It Takes
Sep 11, 2006
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I know whos that is. :D

Now that I am at home and can see the picture I think so too.

If correct, I can say the 5 seconds before that happened were pretty exciting....;)....:eek:

Good luck with the build Tom; thanks for the play-by-play, makes for good reading.
 

1chevy02

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Jun 23, 2009
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Yeah I really enjoy sitting in my chair and watching somebody else get their hands dirty for a change:happy2: Nice imformative thread for when mine shortens the rods:angel:
 

TheBac

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That rod at E's shop was from Finger's motor, wasnt it? Hell, I cant remember...it was a few years ago. :rofl: "Old brain syndrome" I have....

You know the one piece of information Id give people running stock motors? Do a compression test at the end of every year, so you can catch potential problems. I figure I was a couple WOT runs from having a more expensive repair, if you get my meaning. Just save the results for comparison the next year, too.
 
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