The Rebuild, Ch. 1 "Parts list"

[mytmousemalibu]

Damn. thats about $700 in gaskets. "Duramax diesel" really is a synonym for "gourmet"

Hahahahahahaha! :rofl: Thats the funniest line ive read in quite a while!:rofl::thumb:

Hope you rebuild goes smooth as ice Tom! You have some self-restraint! Im the "oh well, while im in here" kind of guy and thats hard on the wallet!

I would really be lookin at delipping the slugs and at least some entry level head studs for insurance. Better to have and not need than the alternative!

 

[sweetdiesel]

FWIW I purchased my gaskets from Henry and it was cheap!

another thing to consider is you can purchase a metric o-ring kit for cheap and use them instead of the overpriced GM ones for most of the build ( not on the injector cups)

 

[Slick]

I don't have my receipts in front of me but I think I did better than 700 on all the gaskets. Don't forget your injector return line seals, don't think I saw them on your list.

I'm in the process of doing pretty much the exact same thing that you are Tom, only I just bought a complete LMM shortblock to swap in. I didn't go with headstuds either. Just my opinion but I don't know how much I would jack with compression ratio with a stock turbo either. If you plan on chasing down the stock record again next year you might want all the c/r you can get? I'm a little worried about going from 17.5 to 16.8 in my build. Actually a little less since I went with c's on both heads, and one side actually called for a B grade gasket...

On edit: Site is running slow for some reason... I second whoever said to get the heads checked out. My springs were within spec, but they did replace one exhaust valve.

 

[blue68383]

I don't have my receipts in front of me but I think I did better than 700 on all the gaskets. Don't forget your injector return line seals, don't think I saw them on your list.

I'm in the process of doing pretty much the exact same thing that you are Tom, only I just bought a complete LMM shortblock to swap in. I didn't go with headstuds either. Just my opinion but I don't know how much I would jack with compression ratio with a stock turbo either. If you plan on chasing down the stock record again next year you might want all the c/r you can get? I'm a little worried about going from 17.5 to 16.8 in my build. Actually a little less since I went with c's on both heads, and one side actually called for a B grade gasket...

On edit: Site is running slow for some reason... I second whoever said to get the heads checked out. My springs were within spec, but they did replace one exhaust valve.

If you're using an LMM shortblock, stock compression is 16.5 isnt it? You guys arent worried about the problems with LBZ/LMM pistons I keep hearing about? What about keying the crank and cam while you have it apart Tom. Is that not a big issue?

 

[TheBac]

Forgot about that. Thanks.

 

[duratothemax]

If you're using an LMM shortblock, stock compression is 16.5 isnt it? You guys arent worried about the problems with LBZ/LMM pistons I keep hearing about? What about keying the crank and cam while you have it apart Tom. Is that not a big issue?

LBZ/LMM stock compression ratio is 16.8:1

 

[duramaximizer]

I have a tuned stock lmm, and pistons are the only part that scares me with the stock motor.

 

[GMC_2002_Dmax]

Tom,

Why LBZ rods, the motor would be better served with perf/rods and head studs.

 

[RickDLance]

Tom,

Why LBZ rods, the motor would be better served with perf/rods and head studs.

I would guess because Tom has to do it on a budget like most of us. Pick the best pieces you can afford and go.

 

[68skylark455]

I say 7.1 stroker kit from so-cal

I bought a fel-pro head kit front cover kit and lower gkt kit for around $550
I bought the headgaskets from GM because you can get them for overbore, stock or overbore and milled.

 

[TheBac]

Tom,

Why LBZ rods, the motor would be better served with perf/rods and head studs.

I would guess because Tom has to do it on a budget like most of us. Pick the best pieces you can afford and go.

What Rick said.

Larry, you crack me up. :rofl: 7.1....yep, sure thing.

 

[SteveFord]

I think for a guy that uses his truck everyday and not looking to set the world on fire and make huge power the lbz rods are a good choice in my opinion with lb7/lly pistons.

 

[TheBac]

Guys,

Not everyone wants/needs a full-on $15,000 race motor, especially in a daily driven, ordinary truck. Im one of those guys.
Those kind of builds are fun to watch happen, but not when you are the one having to buy the parts.
I appreciate the "if it were me" posts, but the extras just arent going to happen.
Im sorry if that disappoints you all. Trust me, Im disappointed I have to build it in the first place.

As it is, all thats going to be done is LBZ rods, keyed cam/crank, and maybe cut the pistons. A lot will depend on what we find when we go into it. I may need injectors. I could find the pistons are flowered and Ill need new ones. Heck, the bores could be screwed up. I may find the caps were walking and I have to go with main studs. As Trent found in his motor, a valve or two could be bent. I just need to get my parts list together first.

 

[SteveFord]

Either way Tom the route your taking makes the most sense for the average guy. When the time comes this will be the route I'll take also. Good luck witht he build and when it's all done make sure you get your downpipe to fit

 

[KEVINL]

does cutting the pistons drop the compression ratio?

 

[paint94979]

does cutting the pistons drop the compression ratio?

yes

 

[TheBac]

I received some offers of parts from a few members. Thanks guys...I appreciate it.

 

[JD4440]

I think for a guy that uses his truck everyday and not looking to set the world on fire and make huge power the lbz rods are a good choice in my opinion with lb7/lly pistons.

That's my choice on a combo. Tom, Looking forward to following this, To me the person who saves the most coin is more impressive than the one who spends it. No offense to the ones that can afford it, I just couldn't.

 

[TheBac]

That's my choice on a combo. Tom, Looking forward to following this, To me the person who saves the most coin is more impressive than the one who spends it. No offense to the ones that can afford it, I just couldn't.

Thanks. We'll see. I figure I have to make 585rwhp to get my 11.99 goal. LBZ rods should get me there...hopefully more than once. Tuning will be a HUGE factor, and Nick and I have already talked about finally tweaking "my" tune to lessen cyl pressure, since the original "12.40" tune was never touched as I kept getting faster. Never, ever again will I be as trusting with other tuning as I was last year. I would love to rent one of Jon's cyl pressure monitors during tuning. I can still cut some weight from the truck when the time comes.

Id LOVE to be able to afford Crower rods, but its just not gonna happen.

My list right now includes:

LBZ rod bolts \
LB7 head bolts - ya know, torque-to-yield bolts just sucks ass
LB7 main bolts /
LB7 rear cover, front cover sets
Rod bearings
Main bearings
C headgaskets (we'll see what I really need at teardown..hell, it could be A's)
possibly valve cover gaskets, w/p gaskets, etc
1 tube GM engine sealant

 

[JoshH]

Whose tuning were you running on your 12.28 pass? You going to be doing anything with your injectors?