I honestly have no clue. The cal tracs instructions didn't mention anything about the other holes and what they're best used for, so I left it as is.
Suspension setups...shocks, overloads, ladder bars
- Thread starter mike diesel
- Start date
I honestly have no clue. The cal tracs instructions didn't mention anything about the other holes and what they're best used for, so I left it as is.
The lower holes look like it will give more leverage, loading harder. Atleast that's the way it makes sense in my brain.
I've been thinking about adding caltracs and have done a lot of research on this. From what I recall the lower hole works better for rwd applications because it lifts the front of the vehicle to plant the rear. As you raise the bar it shifts the lift point toward the center of the vehicle which helps plant the front tires. But i also heard that you can go too far in that setting where it lifts the rear too much. If i end up buying a set i was going to start on the top hole and easy on the preload.
I swear you guys who joined the last 4 years think we've never discussed things like this before.
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33593&highlight=caltrac+setup
Levi links to this thread at CompD: http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113114&highlight=caltracs
Pay close attention to Dockboy's post
This post, Trent used suspension program to estimate what each Caltrac hole did to change IC: http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showpost.php?p=207453&postcount=40
Also this from IdahoRob:
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181360&highlight=caltracs
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33593&highlight=caltrac+setup
Levi links to this thread at CompD: http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113114&highlight=caltracs
Pay close attention to Dockboy's post
This post, Trent used suspension program to estimate what each Caltrac hole did to change IC: http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showpost.php?p=207453&postcount=40
Also this from IdahoRob:
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181360&highlight=caltracs
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I've always kept an eye on whatever is current. And I try to absorb most of it. But to really study the finer points of suspension setup for drag racing specific use, no not so much.
And since I've never had caltracs, I didn't read all the nitty gritty details of how to set them up or adjust them.
On my daily driver I just clamp the springs, lower front end, and adjust air pressure. But I've never cut better then a 1.70 60' either.
My pulling truck with same setup plus long axle wrap bars, and QA1 shocks I've cut a 1.65. But it's tricky to launch with a large single with a huge turbine wheel. (3.6" exducer) It usually leaves lazy, or coats the front doors with rubber.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
And since I've never had caltracs, I didn't read all the nitty gritty details of how to set them up or adjust them.
On my daily driver I just clamp the springs, lower front end, and adjust air pressure. But I've never cut better then a 1.70 60' either.
My pulling truck with same setup plus long axle wrap bars, and QA1 shocks I've cut a 1.65. But it's tricky to launch with a large single with a huge turbine wheel. (3.6" exducer) It usually leaves lazy, or coats the front doors with rubber.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
$8 u bolt Spring clamps got me a 1.64, would Cal-tracs really make a big difference. I like to keep it as simple and cheap as possible.
Dam. I tried running spring clamps Friday night and I got worse 60s. Was able to cut a 1.77 with just long bars and pyos with a 265/75 at. With clamps and long bars they were 1.9s
I finally got the rear shocks on the other day.
Rancho 9000's all around with caltracs. The truck feels very good and way more under control than it has ever felt. Haven't made it to the track yet though.
Rancho 9000's all around with caltracs. The truck feels very good and way more under control than it has ever felt. Haven't made it to the track yet though.
There is a ton of suspension/tire & wheel info buried in posts on the forum that goes back many years. Jeff Dean, McRat, Trent, Tom, etc, etc have spent the time/money testing and then posted volumes of detailed ideas, pics, and feedback. No need to re-create the wheel or spend money guessing when starting out.
Front coilovers will work as long as you can get a tall enough shock and spring combination to support the weight and still give some suspension travel. I used several QA1 setups on both 2wd and 4wd setup but the cost is significant and the truck will set low. Plus asking an aluminum bodied coil over shock to support front end weight does not make a street-worthy alternative.
Caltracs do work but are not much fun daily driving or if you need to use your truck as a truck every now and then.
Rancho shocks are not much of a better option for drag racing then regular shocks. Your only practical option is to set them on the stiffest setting.
Double adjustable shocks up front to control rebound are money well spent. Cheap spring clamps work on the front of the pack and are much easier to install/remove.
Factory 16" aluminum wheels are cheap, extremely light, clear factory brakes without issue, and are stronger than most any aftermarket wheels so it's an easy choice to want to use them.
If you want a wider rim for more tire and have the budget, call Real Wheels. You can have the width, backspacing, and beadlock design that will do it all. If you run slicks and ever cut a tire/tube at the track, having a beadlock makes it practical to quickly patch/repair to keep on racing.
Tire height will be the limiting factor in tire options. The M&H drag radials are popular but are overprice in my opinion. Toyo and Nitto are a popular compromise tire. I like the M&H cheater slicks because the softer sidewalls help cover up a poor suspension set up and will flat out hook up better on marginally prepped tracks.
Front coilovers will work as long as you can get a tall enough shock and spring combination to support the weight and still give some suspension travel. I used several QA1 setups on both 2wd and 4wd setup but the cost is significant and the truck will set low. Plus asking an aluminum bodied coil over shock to support front end weight does not make a street-worthy alternative.
Caltracs do work but are not much fun daily driving or if you need to use your truck as a truck every now and then.
Rancho shocks are not much of a better option for drag racing then regular shocks. Your only practical option is to set them on the stiffest setting.
Double adjustable shocks up front to control rebound are money well spent. Cheap spring clamps work on the front of the pack and are much easier to install/remove.
Factory 16" aluminum wheels are cheap, extremely light, clear factory brakes without issue, and are stronger than most any aftermarket wheels so it's an easy choice to want to use them.
If you want a wider rim for more tire and have the budget, call Real Wheels. You can have the width, backspacing, and beadlock design that will do it all. If you run slicks and ever cut a tire/tube at the track, having a beadlock makes it practical to quickly patch/repair to keep on racing.
Tire height will be the limiting factor in tire options. The M&H drag radials are popular but are overprice in my opinion. Toyo and Nitto are a popular compromise tire. I like the M&H cheater slicks because the softer sidewalls help cover up a poor suspension set up and will flat out hook up better on marginally prepped tracks.